Train Trip to Whistler: Hop on Board the Rocky Mountaineer

I can’t count how many times I’ve seen the Rocky Mountaineer, the train that runs between North Vancouver and Whistler, but until last week I’d never ridden it.

There are faster ways to get to Whistler. By car. By bus. Or even by bike – if you’re an elite cyclist.

But a ride on the Rocky Mountaineer is truly about the journey, not the destination.

The journey begins with the red carpet treatment where all guest are warmly welcomed on-board. Two levels of service are available – the Whistler Dome Service – which features seating in a glass domed coach with white linen dining or the Whistler Classic Service. At this level, you’ll find comfortable seating with lots of leg room in a traditional remodeled 1950′s coach. Light meals are served in a native designed box – though the food is more akin to an airline meal. I rode the rails in both coaches and though I would be partial to the Dome Service – for the extra large windows and elegant afternoon tea, I found the attendants in both cars to be extremely friendly, personable and warm.

The train trip to Whistler is a 3½ hour affair – which goes by surprisingly fast – largely because of the stunning scenery along much of the route. In fact in 2010, Reader’s Digest ranked this train ride #5 on its list of the World’s 10 Best Train Journey’s. National Geographic calls it one of the Top 10 North American Train Trips. High praise indeed.

Here’s what awaits you on the ride up to Whistler!

You need to leave the rail-yards of North Vancouver before the scenery kicks in. I should also mention that the best views, as one would suspect, are seen when the weather cooperates. In the northwest summers are typically dry and sunny but in June we still see many a rainy day. And that’s just what it did going up to Whistler – but on the return it was glorious and the views were dazzling.

After heading beneath Lion’s Gate Bridge the train parallels the seawall in West Vancouver. Wave to the walkers – and to Nina – a lady who lives in an apartment and who shows up like clockwork – EVERYDAY – to wave. She’s been waving for years.

About a half hour into the ride you pass through the first and longest of nine tunnels. This tunnel was built because of a train derailment in a residential neighbourhood in the late 1960′s. Over 1000 feet of track was torn up and a huge number of coaches derailed.

When you reach the other side of the tunnel, you’re in the Horseshoe Bay area. Look for the ferries heading in one of three directions – to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, to Bowen Island – a mere 20 minute ferry ride away or to the Sunshine Coast. You might, if you’re really lucky, see a pod of dolphins. They’ve recently returned to the area and from what I’ve been told it’s because the herring have returned in large numbers. They are a thrilling sight to see. You might also see some dark blobs on the water – a potential seal but unless you have binoculars it’s hard to tell.

The train continues north, hugging the coast past Porteau Cove, to Britannia Beach and then on into Squamish. For about a kilometer the train feels like it shares the road with the cars. And as a cyclist with perhaps two feet of pavement, this is the one section on the Sea to Sky Highway that makes me very nervous.

Britannia Beach owes its’ existence to copper mining. At one point it was the largest producer of copper in the British Commonwealth! It ceased production in 1974 and in 1988 it was designated a National Historic Site. Then in 2010 an expansion to the site was completed and the museum re-opened – this time as the Britannia Mine Museum. Over 200 kilometers of tunnels are built into the hills surrounding the museum.

When you reach Squamish, the views from the train of the second largest monolith in the world – known as Stawamus Chief – are fantastic. This huge hunk of granite rock beckons climbers from around the globe. It’s also possible to hike a trail on the backside of the mountain. It takes a solid hour to 90 minutes to climb the 1800 feet and on a sunny day the views from the top are outstanding.

Trade the water views for forest and canyon views upon leaving Squamish. Start climbing too – close to 2000 feet. The highlight of this section – and the part that no car or bus or cyclist ever sees – is the Cheakamus Canyon. It’s a stunning train ride through here and one where you should take advantage of the open air coaches. It’s a thrill to see clear views of the Cheakamus River raging below.

Then the train slows for a quick view of the top of Brandywine Falls. The falls are 195 feet high and the vantage point from the train is excellent. It is possible to hike in this park – though expect more traditional views of the falls.

Just before you reach Whistler you pass Alpha Lake, one in a chain of four lakes. You can see many a home – some year round and some for summer enjoyment only. Then in less than a kilometer you arrive in Whistler – at Nita Lake Lodge, near Creekside Village. You’ll need to take a 5 -10 minute coach, bus or taxi ride to get to the center of Whistler – where your next adventure awaits.

What You Should Know

• The Rocky Mountaineer runs from May through September only on a Thursday to Monday basis. Reservations are necessary. Book early.
• The train trip to Whistler leaves at 8:00 am and arrives in Whistler at 11:30 am. The return trip leaves at 3:30 pm and arrives in North Vancouver at 7:00 pm.
• Take a coat with you so you can enjoy the open air coach.
• Bring your appetite. A freshly prepared breakfast is served in Dome Class on the way to Whistler and a full English tea is served on the return. In Classic Service you can expect a light meal and beverages both ways.

Leigh McAdam

HikeBikeTravel

Disclaimer: I received a free seat compliments of the Rocky Mountaineer.

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