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Surviving Eleven Kilometers of Terror on Highway 20
I have a confession to make.
I am terrified of driving on roads with severe drop-offs. I am a terrible back seat driver under these circumstances, though John would say that’s not the only time.
Sometimes I think it would be best if I was blindfolded.
One of the scariest sections of Highway 20
Closer view of the steep section of Highway 20
So it was with great trepidation that I agreed to drive from Atnarko Lodge on beautiful Charlotte Lake to Bella Coola – a distance of about 105 kilometers as the crow flies.
The road (bottom of the photo) takes you through an area of extreme beauty
The actual highway takes you 452 kilometers from Williams Lake in the Cariboo region of BC to Bella Coola on the coast. (Once in Bella Coola you can catch a ferry to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island.) The gnarly bit of highway in question is the dirt portion west of Anahim Lake. In total there are about 60 kilometers of hard packed dirt highway. Not all of it is bad or even scary.
But there are eleven kilometers where any driving mistake would be most unfortunate.
Near the start of the descent
Lots of rock fall in places
More tight bends with big drop offs
Highway 20 has an interesting history.
For years the residents of Bella Coola wanted a road. They were cut off from the rest of BC except by boat. The government hummed and hawed and did nothing. So by 1952 the locals were beyond fed up. A number of them got together, raised a small amount of money, donated dynamite, loaned equipment and with the help of volunteers and a fellow named Elijah Gurr blazed the best route through.
Before they started they sent a telegram to the Department of Public Works in Victoria saying:
This is to advise you that we are going to immediately start building the road from Anahim Lake to Bella Coola.
The major obstacle to the road building is what is referred to as The Hill. It descends 1666 meters (5465 feet) from Heckman Pass to the ocean. Unbelievably in just one year the two cats (earth moving equipment) operating from opposite sides were less than a mile apart. And on September 26, 1953 the road was completed and called The Freedom Road.
In places – though I’m not sure if it still holds true today, the grade was 18%. There were single lane sections and gravel switchbacks. The government stepped in shortly after completion and helped with improvements.
I can’t even imagine how nasty the road would have been earlier on. It’s my vivid imagination and fear of going over the cliffs or being struck by a loose boulder that causes me great terror.
The sign says it all
You’d be an idiot not to carry chains in the winter and shoulder season
But in the end I survived. I will never say that I enjoyed it but I can say that I’m VERY GLAD I did it. In hindsight I wish we’d had an extra day to explore the Bella Coola area. There’s a big change in the climate and vegetation from top to bottom and it would have been fun to see some of the monster big trees at the lower elevation. Plus I understand you can go on float trips out of Bella Coola – or grizzly bear watching during the salmon run.
Back to the easy driving en route to Bella Coola
Of course what goes down must go up so I did think about the return drive whilst still trying to enjoy the Bella Coola Valley. Surprisingly I found it to be much easier though perhaps that was because we had the road to ourselves. We didn’t have to hug the corners and pull over beside a drop off as a transport truck came around the corner.
So my question to you – how many of you are fearful drivers or passengers on roads like this? I can say that John loved every minute of it but I’m not sure that it’s a male-female thing.
This is my submission to Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox, a website where Nanci offers a chance every Thursday for fellow travelers to post their favourite photos. I know it’s only Tuesday as I post this but I’m off to scare myself again – this time climbing to Abbott Pass Hut above Lake O’Hara with guides and a TV crew – courtesy of Travel Alberta.
Leigh McAdam
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About Hike Bike TravelAvid world traveler. Craves adventure - & the odd wildly epic day. Gardener. Reader. Wine lover. Next big project - a book on 100 Canadian outdoor adventures.
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59 Responses to Surviving Eleven Kilometers of Terror on Highway 20
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About
I’ve been all over the world – to all continents but Antarctica and to a grand total of 53 countries. I’ve always got some sort of an adventure planned – even if it’s only a weekend. I thrive on change and travel provides that.
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leighmcadamtravels at gmail dot com
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I would be a white knuckle passenger too! Not only is it steep and with a drop off but it’s of gravel, which I don’t like at all. Thank goodness it was your husband at the wheel and you weren’t on a bus! Sounds like you are having an amazing summer Leigh!!
Gillian @OneGiantStep recently posted..Monday Moment: Thai Amulets
@Gillian It has been such a busy summer – with so many new sights, yet within driving distance from Calgary – at least for a 2 week trip. Now I have two weeks to catch up while you count down to Japan. So glad to hear I’m not the only white knuckle passenger.
Wow, that looks even worse than a road we were on in Crete! And you really bring it up close and personal here!
Susan Scheid recently posted..Birds in England
@Susan That’s the second time Crete has been mentioned in the comments which makes me wonder about ever getting in a car there…
That’s a really scary road to be sure, but you should come back and try it again in the winter. You’ll never drive a car again.
Steve recently posted..Disneyland at Night
@Steve Even with chains could you imagine driving this road in winter?? And to think transport trucks do it all the time. I hope those guys are paid well.
Wow – Don’t think I could hold my breath that long. Looks scary.
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@Mette I bet there are roads in Italy that would cause the same reaction for me!! Scary but worth it.
I am a squeeze-my-eyes-shut-start-humming-to-myself such passenger on these types of roads. And Joel is the sainted driver who approaches them without a whimper (that’s my role to the right of him). I have such vivid memories of similar roads: one along Crete’s southern coast where an oncoming car or too close to the edge would have put us in the sea after a significant drop off a cliff, another also on the southern coast that stressed me so badly that I had a headache at the end, and in our own state, Hart’s Pass in the Methow. Glad I’ve done them all but in no rush to return.
Jackie Smith recently posted..Travel Tip Tuesday: Got Reservations? Maybe; Maybe Not
@Jackie Interesting how we all handle dangerous roads so differently. There are places on this road where I would have a hard time not shaking from fright. But then John wondered what my problem was!
Wow, I would have been a nervous wreck! Your pics remind me of driving on the South Island of New Zealand. No guardrails, narrow roads, stick shift that you shift with your left hand AND driving on the left side right next to the huge cliffs. So nerve wracking but looks like we both made it out alive!
@Diane Not only did I make it our alive I got a chance to see Bella Coola – and for that the road was worth driving.
Terrifying! You are brave. What beautiful photos.
@Roberta I’m not brave – just noisy.
Let me at that road !!!
fink recently posted..A Canadian Speaks!
@Fink – Finally someone who’s keen to drive the road!! Great news.
Oh, man… I’d rather be blindfolded too in these roads. Aaargh! No way will Michael and our son let me on the wheel of the car for this ride ;-D
Marlys recently posted..Easy Hiking And Riesling In The Palatinate
@Marlys I’ll order the blindfolds for both of us then.
Awesome shots! I am glad that you made it, so that I could enjoy every moment of it. I love to back seat and enjoy the views during such trips though I am sure I would make a very bad driver for the same!
Arti recently posted..A Stroll in the Hibiya Gardens, Tokyo
@Arti In that case Arti I will never drive with you!
Good heavens! To think that I thought driving up over Foley Mountain in Nova Scotia was bad. There is no way I would have been the driver, and if I had been in the passenger seat I would have been blindfolded! The scenery is spectacular, though.
You’re becoming a TV star?
Nancie recently posted..Travel Photo Thursday — August 16, 2012 — Chiang Mai Attractions and Food
@Nancie This is where the IPOD comes in handy. Look into the center of the car and focus on music.
The photos are stunning and probably worth the agony of the drive! I am a horrible passenger on roads like that – just ask my husband!
Hope you’re enjoying your climb at Lake O’Hara!
Lisa recently posted..The Art Gallery Of Ontario
@Lisa Another husband/wife combo where the husband has no problem and the wife does. Ahh but really I am glad we did it.
I was smiling as I read your post because it sounded so much like me! I think my husband was a race car driver in another life
At least the drive was beautiful.
Debbie Beardsley @ European Travelista recently posted..The Hapburgs: Living Large in Life and Death
@Debbie John and I often disagree about driving – too close,too fast. I try to be quiet but I just can’t help myself.
Wow- this drive looks terrifying! I get freaked out at small declines, I can’t imagine doing this!! you are brave!
@Jade Fortunately it”s a road that doesn’t see a lot of traffic.
Kudos for making through the drive, Leigh! I will never drive on a scary looking road that like that. I’m a bad backseat driver which drives my husband mad. I would be holding on for dear life and pressing my imaginary brakes which would be a shame since I’d miss the views. Hope you’re having a wonderful time on your adventure.
Mary @ The World Is A Book recently posted..Adventures at Arches National Park
Completely understand what you mean. The only driver I trust on roads like that is myself!
Sophie recently posted..The Lesotho Incident
Hi, I am nervous being a car passenger at heights, especially on those big bridges in Italy that span whole valleys, and then the trucks and other cars are all driving like maniacs. Whenever a truck tore past us I would have to close my eyes – thank goodness I wasn’t driving. Also driving up and up behind San Remo into the Ligurian Hills with steep drop offs and hair pin blind corners left my hands sweating. But I would not give up doing these things.
These photos are beautiful – Both Budget Hubby and I just love Canada. We took a huge RV (the hugeness was not our choice – it was a cheap take what you get deal)from Vancouver along the USA border then up to Banff to Jasper, over to Vancouver Island and back to Vancouver. It took three weeks and we have never seen such beautiful scenery on such a grand scale anywhere.
Your photos bring it all back – but I have not been on those particular roads.
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What a fascinating story – I would be terrified to make the road – probably not to drive on it now though – it sounds (and looks) beautiful!
Have a great weekend!
Becca@ R We There Yet Mom? recently posted..Friday Daydreamin’: Sunday Drives
@Becca Definitely worth the drive despite the headline of my blog.
Dear @ Debbie:
The too close too fast is Leigh not me!
Hubby of HikeBikeTravel lady with sunglasses
Oh wow I don’t think I could do that road. I’m such a prairie girl, any mountain road seems intimidating. I did drive my grandparents to Kelowna to visit family this summer. They brought me along to drive because my grandmother hates driving in the mountains – she had her eyes closed for most of the trip. I actually did okay, but I think that’s because we stuck to the major highways (Yellowhead on the way there, TransCanada coming home). I definitely couldn’t do anything like Highway 20, just seeing that scary section in pictures is making me nervous.
Alouise recently posted..Capture The Colour
@Alousie It sounds to me like you just need some practice and some really great music to take your mind away from the fear!
That must have been quite a relief to be back on level pavement. Those photos of the road look terrifying. My dad always liked taking us on road like that. As a kid, I was excited (and a little afraid) — it’s all a lot scarier now. Well worth the terror, however.
Cathy Sweeney recently posted..A Great Place on a Great Lake
Those are some amazing views, but I imagine you had a few terrifying moments. I’m with you, I’m a terrible backseat driver but I have to admit that I’m not sure I would want to be the one behind the wheel on that route. My husband on the other hand would probably have loved every minute. You’re right, it must be a male-female thing.
Tonya @ The Traveling Praters recently posted..Flashback to Alaska…
@Tonya Part of the time I was focused on taking pictures and that actually helped. Going up really was OK but I think that’s because we didn’t meet a soul.
Hi Leigh,
I hope you don’t mind but I found your story on the ‘Hill’ and posted a link to it on my blog. If it’s any consolation, you are not the only person that has been terrified of the Hill. Some RV drivers have been known to hire someone to bring their rig back up the Hill after going down and flying out of the Bella Coola Valley and one friend I know came back up on the passenger floor of her truck with her head under a blanket.
I can’t say I love the Hill but my husband does and I admit that you do get used to it after traveling it a number of times. His favorite thing to do was to drop the back wheels of his tandem truck and trailer over the edge into thin air while turning around on the Hill when he and some other truck drivers gravelled the Hill a few years ago. They all loved seeing the reaction of the tourists sitting just beyond the flag girl waiting for the truckers to get turned around.
I have posted a number of stories about the Hill including about one fellow years ago that used to have to chop ruts in the ice going down with his family to keep from sliding over as the ice would form slanting toward the edge. If you would like to read more about the Hill just do a search at the bottom of the blog at http://www.resortsbc.com/Wilderness-Adventures.html
Thank you again for your great stories, Leigh!
Hi Jane,
I’m thrilled you posted a link to it – no problem at all. I’ve been getting some truly fascinating stories out of it – and obviously hit a nerve! I can’t say that I blame some of those RV drivers. WE did see one broken down at the side of the road.
Watching your husband’s truck would scare me half to death! Thanks for sharing your stories.
I don’t love these roads, mostly because I travel alone and afraid of getting caught up in the scenery instead of concentrating on the driving.
I’d say at least half of the roads I drove on in New Zealand were like this- steep, winding, single-lane (but most were paved).
Erik recently posted..Photo of the Day- Old Post Office Tower, Washington, D.C.
Hi Erik,
It’s much quieter driving alone with no one barking instructions into your ear!!
I drive that road often with my boyfriend. It’s best if I’m drunk or sleeping, because The Hill is TERRIFYING. I much prefer to fly out of the valley.
@Kat There have been so many comments – with seemingly a lot of the women terrified by the road and the guys mostly loving it. Of course there are some females who think it sounds fun too.
The ‘Hill’ into the Bella Coola is spectacular. It is not a road for idiots. If you drive theroad with respect you will have a wonderful trip. After the first trip, the unknown is known and makes the trip easier. It is well maintained and driven twice a week by three different transport companies. As long as you drive sensibly you will not have a problem on this road. Besides, at the end you get to see the Bella Coola Valley. That is woth it!
@Kathy Well said! I agree that the more you do it the more you understand it. And I was totally delighted by the Bella Coola Valley – post to follow soon.
Oh its not THAT bad! Granted, the steep edges are enough to make your skin crawl the first time you do it but trust me, you get used to it after you do it 100s of times
@Jenifers Agreed. I think the more you drive it the more confident you feel.
super dangerous!! I’d only let my hubby drive.. LOL, and i’d keep my eyes closed! The nice people demanded for road, and they got that! Poor folks! haha
ciki recently posted..Amadeus Bistro & Wine Bar @ Life Center
@Ciki There seems to be quite a divide among who would drive it and who wouldn’t. Fortunately I think it gets easier with experience BUT I would never want to do it in the winter.
I’m not too bad when I’m driving but when I’m a passenger, I’m a nightmare. your photos really capture the drops on this road. I would be terrified if I was in the passenger seat. Amazing scenery, though.
Julia
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Julia – I am a terrible back street driver and I would say my husband and I have more arguments in the car while driving than at any other time. I am a terrible passenger too. Trust me the return trip up the hill was not nearly so bad.
That is one AWESOME looking road. Usually I’m really cool on those roads as either the driver or the passenger (ok, I look for these kind of roads and can guarantee you that this one will go on my travel list), but in the Seychelles we did slide off the edge of one of their steep, scary hairpin turns in the dark – luckily it was in a spot where there wasn’t a very big drop and, once we got enough people to stop, we just picked up the car and put it back up on the road. . . but I was a horrible backseat driver after that!
Great post.
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@Cindy That sounds like one heck of an experience in the Seychelles. I’ve almost skidded off an icy road where there was a large drop and I’m definitely more nervous ever since then.
Okay I’m getting dizzy just looking at the photos. Can’t imagine actually being there.
Dave recently posted..Fun and Free Things to Do in Quito, Ecuador
@Dave Actually a pretty cool drive to do – but cannot imagine doing it in bad weather.
I lived in Bella Coola for 8 years 95-02. Drove that hill many times in every season, even at night. Never had a problem. Only part that got me was photo 5 because it narrows to one land and you can’t see what is coming.
One of those things you should try if you get a chance.
@Steve You’re braver than I am! I’m glad we did it but cannot imagine doing it in the winter.