- Home
- About
- Canada
- US
- Destinations
- Adventures
- Guides
- Canada
- A Guide to Biking From Banff to Jasper, Alberta
- A Guide to Biking the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia
- A Biking Guide for Quebec’s Eastern Townships
- A Guide to Biking British Columbia’s Gulf Islands
- Niagara Area Bike and Wine Tour Guide
- A Guide to Visiting and Biking the Okanagan Valley in BC
- A Guide to Biking Prince Edward County, Ontario
- Vancouver Airport Layover Guide
- A Bike and Wine Tour Guide for Victoria to the Cowichan Valley
- US
- Europe
- South America
- Canada
- Book & Gear Reviews
- Travel Resources
- Contact
A Visit to Wintry Winnipeg
Last weekend John and I paid a visit to wintry Winnipeg – a city famous for its bitterly cold winters and summers filled with mosquitoes described by locals as so big they should be declared Manitoba’s provincial bird.
Fortunately our weekend in Winnipeg turned out to be great fun despite temperatures in the -21 C (-6 F) range.
We’d booked into the Fairmont Hotel located just meters from Winnipeg’s most famous intersection – Portage and Main. The place was a deal at $120 per night. The photo below is the view from our room. Interestingly you cannot walk across the intersection at Portage and Main. Instead you must use a subterranean walkway.
The view of Winnipeg’s most famous intersection – Portage and Main – at dawn
We didn’t actually spend any time in the city on the Saturday. Instead we headed for Whiteshell Provincial Park for a day of cross country skiing. Despite a gnarly, high stress start to the day on very wintry roads, we ended up thoroughly enjoying ourselves on two different cross country ski trails. And we saw a wolf – my first wild one. (John had seen wolves before and in fact had been followed by a pack of them for hours in the Northwest Territories.)
By Saturday night we were so tired we didn’t leave the hotel room. Room service it was – and another first for me.
But come Sunday morning we were ready to explore. I’d been told by a former Winnipeg resident to try Stella’s Cafe and Bakery so we did. There are a number of them in town, including one that was just a fifteen minute walk from the hotel. The restaurant – named for a cat that’s since passed on – makes delicious coffee and sumptuous breakfasts. Definitely try them out.
The morning rush at Stella’s
We took our time over breakfast hoping for the sun to warm things up a bit – which it did to a point – so off we went to explore on foot and via skates the area between Portage and Main and The Forks.
Here’s a look at some of the sights in the vicinity of The Forks – a historical area at the confluence of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers.
Giant baseballs used to mark the parking at the Shaw Park baseball field
A pedestrian walkway – Esplanade Riel takes you over the Red River
A wintry view in Festival Park
Looking across the Red River to Saint Boniface Cathedral
The Canadian Museum for Human Rights – to be inaugurated in 2014
Next up was a skating adventure on the world’s longest natural outdoor rink. We spent 1½ hours skating from one end to the other and then back to the start – a total of 14 kilometers for John – and about 12 kilometers for me. After 90 minutes we were frozen as the temperature had dropped and the wind had picked up to make it a frosty -31 C with windchill. My ear lobes are still recovering; I stupidly wore earrings with metal backs so I think they got frostbitten. If they turn black and fall off I’ll let you know.
Me trying to catch my balance on figure skates
Skaters on the frozen Assiniboine River
A view of the handsome Manitoba Legislative Building from the Assiniboine River
A small rink option outside The Forks Market if skating on the river isn’t what you want
Inside The Forks Market
A warm-up inside The Forks Market was the next item on the agenda. We sniffed out a bakery -the Tallgrass Prairie Bread Company - and they just happen to be the makers of an amazing Saskatoon berry-rhubarb pie. That and a latte made us both very happy.
It was a dash to the airport after our skating and late lunch. But in Winnipeg the airport is only 20 minutes from downtown – a treat when time is an issue.
Despite Winnipeg’s bad reputation for cold winters, John and I thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and in fact we’d return again in winter.
How about you – have you ever paid a visit to Winnipeg in the winter?
For more travel inspiration check out the photos of other travel bloggers on Nancie’s Budget Travelers Sandbox website.
Leigh McAdam
HikeBikeTravel
Facebook
Twitter
Vote for my article on WorldTravelist.com, sharing the best travel content on the web.
About Hike Bike TravelAvid world traveler. Craves adventure - & the odd wildly epic day. Gardener. Reader. Wine lover. Next big project - a book on 100 Canadian outdoor adventures.
View all posts by Hike Bike Travel →
41 Responses to A Visit to Wintry Winnipeg
Leave a Reply
About
I’ve been all over the world – to all continents but Antarctica and to a grand total of 53 countries. I’ve always got some sort of an adventure planned – even if it’s only a weekend. I thrive on change and travel provides that.
Feel free to email me at
leighmcadamtravels at gmail dot com
STAY CONNECTED
Food Recipes and Restaurants
Surprising Saskatoon: A City of Great Restaurants
TweetSaskatoon took me aback. I figured since it was a prairie city, seemingly in the middle of nowhere – that there would be a backwoods feel to the whole food scene. But was I ever wrong. Saskatoon is a city of great restaurants. Within an hour of landing I was enjoying a fantastic lunch at Souleio’s on [...]
Oh, I absolutely love the first shot, at dawn. Creates such a warm and interesting attitude about the city. Fantastic photos!
jade recently posted..Hiking Diamond Head
@Jade Thanks for the upbeat comment.
I have never been in a city where it has snowed, let alone be so absolutely covered in snow. It is wonderful. Everything is SO WHITE. It is strange that you are experiencing this cold while in Australia there are huge bush fires out of control in Victoria and a tropical cyclone Oswald crossed the coast of the Cape of Carpentaria in Queensland, a couple of days ago. Currently we are having lots of rain as a result of that cyclone.
So having just finished my Post-Christmas “Diet” salad for lunch, your
Saskatoon berry-rhubarb pie, is sounding delicious. If only I could pop over to explore the Forks Market for the afternoon!
budget jan recently posted..Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi – Tale of two Gorges (Part 4)
@Jan I guess as Canadians we’re so used to seeing cities covered in white but as an Australian I can understand that there would be a novelty factor. The pie sounds better than salad – and our excuse was that it takes a lot of calories to stay warm outside. I actually want to research what that number is. Good luck getting through the storms and heat waves.
OMG I AM SO JEALOUS! Winnipeg is my hometown and I miss the winter sooo much… right now I am 8 months pregnant, having hot flashes in tropical Brisbane Australia. I would give anything for a Stellas omlette and some frostbite right now!
Jade – OurOyster.com recently posted..Top Travel Photo Tips Book Review
@Jade Eight months pregnant in a hot climate does not sound like fun. Especially considering the heat wave. I thoroughly enjoyed a plate of blueberry pancakes at Stellas.
Coming from one of the few states in Australia that does not receive snow, I cannot even begin to fathom the ridiculous temperatures you experienced in Winnipeg. I don’t even remember the temperatures being that bad when we used to head to Aspen and Vail for ski trips. The bonus, I suppose, is that the city looks stunning covered in a blanket of snow and you can do fabulous things like skating on the river. What fun!
jenny@atasteoftravel recently posted..My Favourite Cities in the World
@Jenny I don’t think I’d want to live in Winnipeg full time because of the length and harshness of the winters. But I really did find it to be a beautiful city – especially down by The Forks- when blanketed with snow. Colorado doesn’t get the polar air masses coming through – lucky for them.
Oh so brrrrr and oh so beautiful. Haven’t ever been to Winnepeg, but it is on the list. . .maybe when it is a bit warmer though. . .
Jackie Smith recently posted..Beyond Waikiki
@Jackie Winnipeg in the winter – with the proper clothing – is actually quite alright.
Winnipeg looks amazing … and very cold … she says coming from a very hot day in Western Australia. Not sure I like the sound of those Mossies!
Johanna at ZigaZag recently posted..3 Places you just have to try for Lunch in Busselton WA Australia.
@Johanna I don’t think anyone likes those mozzies though I understand that the city has a new entomologist on staff – and they now release a zillion dragonflies which has really helped the problem. Good luck making it through the heat wave.
I am about to jump in my car and drive on up. I am dying for some snow. Fortunately, I will be in northern Minnesota soon if we don’t get more down here. Winnipeg looks beautiful in the winter.
Traveling Ted recently posted..Exploring Huelva and the Doñana National Park
@Ted It sounds like it’s been a horrible winter in the east for anyone with an outdoor focus. At least you have something to look forward to. I’m off for another three days of skiing – downhill this time – to Fernie in southern BC – and home to massive dumps of snow!!
Everything is beautiful, blanketed in the snow. Ice Skating looks like a fun way to fit in some cold-weather exercise.
Tonya @ The Traveling Praters recently posted..Favorite Warm Weather Photos from Around Ohio- #TPThursday
@Tonya Skating is a lot of fun and in Winnipeg they’ve got so much more going on in The Forks area that you don’t have to be a skater to enjoy it.
Living in California we have nothing really like the outside skating rink. We have pretty much the same options as during summer its just a little colder and wetter, sometimes. Winnipeg looks beautiful. Although I can’t fathom being outside when its -7, I think I’d choose to avoid the super large mosquitoes and visit during winter
Debbie Beardsley @ European Travelista recently posted..Its A Door Thing
@Debbie Bundle up, enjoy the sunshine, try a skate and you’d be amazed and how much fun it can be – and in my mind cold trumps bugs every time.
I’ve heard of Portage & Main but have never seen a photo of it. In fact, I just realize I doubt I’ve seen any photos of Winnipeg. All I know about it is that it’s COLD. We had tunnels at my university which I made good use of while i was there. I’m sure they’re especially handy in Winnipeg.
That is one gigantic skating rink!
InsideJourneys recently posted..The Best of Travel 2012
@Marcia Portage and Main has a reputation as being the windiest spot in Canada – but then I read that Hamilton was windier. Tunnels do serve a purpose in cold, windy and snowy cities. And skating on that rink was a lot of fun.
My one and only trip to Winnipeg was in May, exhibiting at a law librarian’s,conference. That was back in the ’90s, and I do remember the weather being quite nice. As you know, I am not a big fan of winter, so I would not be keen on Winnipeg covered with snow and ice and cold temps. However, your photos do make the city look appealing
I like how the Canadian flag stands out in the first shot.
Nancie recently posted..#TPThursday — January 24, 2013 — Wat Si Chum at Sukhothai’s Historical Park
@Nancie It doesn’t seem like many of my readers have embraced the cold. It looks like I need to start a PR campaign.
Brrr! I’m shivering looking at all those winter photos. I’ve never been to Winnepeg nor know more than what I’ve learned from you. It looks like a wonderful city to explore (in warmer weather). We were in southern Colorado last weekend where it was -18F. It took awhile for us to thaw out
Mary @ The World Is A Book recently posted..Five Fun and Free Things to do in Santa Barbara with Kids
@Mary Fortunately it was a dry cold which believe it or not makes a big difference.-18F is cold for Colorado and if you didn’t bring the right clothes it would be tough to have fun in that weather. None of you looked cold in the photos in the sand dune photos.
Gosh it looks cold. I understand why people have their cafes indoors.
Italian Notes recently posted..Pasta with leeks and parmesan
@Mette And that’s why when the good weather comes we are so keen to get outside. Near me the cafes and beer gardens are usually overflowing.
I don’t think I could stand the cold. You’d find me hanging out inside one of those fabulous bakeries you mentioned. Good thing I can enjoy Winnepeg vicariously through you.
Michele @ Malaysian Meanders recently posted..Why My Kids Love The Sydney Opera House
@Michele Cold is like anything – you get used to and you dress for it. The reward is definitely the bakery.
Lots of winter fun in and around Winnipeg. You look like you’re enjoying the skating! I can see why they don’t want people crossing at that intersection — look pretty dangerous, especially in the winter. Lovely winter pics.
Cathy Sweeney recently posted..King Ludwig II and Herrenchiemsee Palace
@Cathy It had been a lot f years since I’d been on a rink of that size. I felt like I was revisiting my childhood skating on the Rideau Canal in Ottawa.
I definitely won’t use the word “fun” and “-21 C” in one sentence! The coldest I experienced was -15 C in Belgium last year. That was not fun! Though maybe if I had the right clothing I would have enjoyed it better. Winnipeg seems like a fun place to visit even during winter. A lot of things to do!
Aleah | SolitaryWanderer.com recently posted..Remembering the Unforgettable Beauty of Santorini
@Aleah Belgium would be a damp cold and it’s absolutely miserable if you’re improperly dressed. Last year I xcountry skied in -25C weather and truly had an outstanding time. In fact I was overheated! And Winnipeg does offer plenty to do in winter.
I love Winnipeg. It’s a very surprising city. I actually ate the best Indian food I’ve ever had in Winipeg! Who would have guessed?! I only wish I could remember the name…
Sensibletraveler recently posted..Is Lutsen the Best Ski Resort in Minnesota?
@Evan Do you remember what that restaurant was? I love Indian food – and haven’t had a good restaurant meal since Vij’s in Vancouver.
Glad you enjoyed it so much Leigh despite the bitter winter! Though a bit of sun always helps! The photographs are stunning what with so much snow everywhere. Loved the first pic, great colors.
Arti recently posted..A Slice of Ancient Japan: Naramachi
@Arti Cold but beautiful. Would I want that all winter – no but really OK for a weekend.
I’ve only been to Winnipeg in the summer and I can’t say I was a huge fan, but it looks beautiful all covered in snow. Probably because I can’t imagine any of those giant mosquitoes chasing me around. Maybe a visit in the winter would be in order, although I’m definitely going to have to beef up my winter gear to make that trip.
Steve recently posted..The Seattle Gum Wall at Pike Place Market
@Steve I think I’d take Winnipeg in winter over mosquitoes though I do understand they’ve done great job eradicating mosquitoes with the help of dragonflys.
A 14km long skate sounds pretty fun, although the -31 certainly does not! Don’t the locals call the place Winterpeg due to its crazy cold weather?
@Leigh, you seemed to have fared quite well in my adopted city on your visit. Glad you were able to get out and appreciate some of the wonders of this city in winter!
@Gene Winnipeg was a surprise. I expected it to be cold but I really didn’t expect to enjoy it as much as I did. I loved the winter activities I took part in and wish we had an outdoor rink that lasted for some time in Calgary. Your city was an unexpected delight – and the people we met were warm and friendly.