Highlights on the Cumbria & West Highland Ways

Just a few weeks ago I finished hiking the Cumbria Way through England’s Lake District and the West Highland Way in western Scotland.

Here are my highlights and favourite sections on the Cumbria Way

• Around Beacon Tarn on  the way to Coniston
• The climb to Stake Pass and the walk down the valley towards Rosthwaite
• The entire day from Keswick to Caldbeck
• Hospitality and friendliness of the locals
• Lovely, pastoral scenery

Favourite B&B’s on the Cumbria Way

Candlewyck Farm B&B Set on 7 acres of land within walking distance of the start of the Cumbria Way.
Claremont House in Ambleside. It’s not fancy but Dave the host was truly outstanding. He is a former member of the Mountain Rescue Team and is a wealth of information on hiking in the Lake District. He very generously went out of his way on several occasions to pick us up and drop us off at trailheads.
Edwardene Hotel in Keswick. Lovely rooms, nice breakfast and our hosts without asking washed and dried our stinky clothes. Amazing hospitality!

Best Restaurant on the Cumbria Way

Zeffirellis Compston Road, Ambleside Ph: 015394 33845. Excellent, inventive italian inspired vegetarian menu – even for people who may not usually eat vegetarian!!

Favourite Sections & Highlights on the West Highland Way

• Lovely section of walking with views of Dumgoyach on Day 1
• The Conic Hill area on Day 2 is beautiful. Stunning views of Loch Lomond and the islands along the West Highland Fault greet you.
• Some but not all sections of walking along Loch Lomond
• Views of the hills, water and islands are excellent from the Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran
• The remote feeling of Rannoch Moor
• This may sound weird but loved watching the British military jets flying through the mountains – sometimes below me!
• The Devils Staircase and the first few miles past it towards Kinlochleven
• Hiking the Old military road out of Kinlochleven
• Catching a sheep roundup complete with 4 farmers and 12 dogs
• ‘Oreo cookie’ cows

Best Accommodation on the West Highland Way

Anchorage Cottage An eight minute drive from Rowardennan at the end of day 2 and just across the street from Loch Lomond. Get picked up from Rowardennan and delivered to a very clean and comfortable B&B. There’s also a pleasant sitting room complete with computer and free WiFi. Hosts were very accommodating and friendly.
Ewich Guest House This place is about 3 miles from Tyndrum and about a 10 minute drive from the Drovers Inn. Car pickups are easily arranged. Stay here for 2 nights while you hike from Inverarnan to Tyndrum. It had the best breakfasts by far on the West Highland Way. Nicely appointed single and double rooms are both available at very reasonable prices. Great bird watching and a farm like setting with chickens and llamas. Also enjoy a lovely sitting area with a fireplace. Dinners available too any month but July.

Best Restaurant on the West Highland Way

The Lime Tree Enjoy inventive cuisine at this restaurant that has been awarded One Michellin Star.

Best Birdbook for England, Scotland (& Europe)

Birds of Great Britain and Europe (RSPB) by Rob Hume. Published by Dorling Kinderslry. ISBN# 0-7513-1234-7.

Most Useful Article of Clothing

Arm warmers. Temperatures varied over the day, body heat varied and they were a cinch to take off and put on.

How do they do it?

Most B&B’s offer blood pudding (sometimes fried) along with streaky bacon, sausages and eggs, tomatoes and beans for breakfast. It’s the same breakfast all over Great Britain. Wait a few weeks after you get home to get your cholesterol checked.

Wierdest Pizza Topping

• Haggis

Incredible but True

• The number of outdoor-climbing shops in the town of Ambleside in the Lake District is 34.
• Keswick, another town 17 miles north, has 38 outdoor-climbing type shops.

Don’t Forget

• A sunhat that stays on in the wind
• A heavier raincoat.
• Various sizes of Compeed – a blister remedy available all over Great Britain

Leigh McAdam

HikeBikeTravel

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