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A Distillery Tour on the West Highland Way

July 21, 2010

On the first day of the West Highland Way it’s well worth walking an extra half mile to take advantage of the distillery tour offered at Glengoyne Distillery. Even if you don’t like scotch (and I don’t) it’s fun and educational. The Scottish lasses will have you smiling and chuckling in no time.

"Glengoyne Distillery"

Glengoyne Distillery - Day 1 on the West Highland Way

The basic £6.50 tour takes you through the process of making whiskey and includes one tasting . After watching a film and knocking back a wee dram your well spoken guide will take you through the various buildings and explain the purpose of each. Finish in the shop where there’s an excellent selection of backpacker sized bottles to choose from.

"Glengoyne distillery"

Glengoyne guide explaining the malting process

Glengoyne Distillery has been making whiskey for around 200 years with the three basic ingredients that go into making every bottle of scotch – water, yeast and barley.

Barley is first soaked in water.  This step releases enzymes which convert the stored starch in the barley into sugar. The damp barley is then spread out on the floor of the malthouse to dry.  At the Glengoyne Distillery the barley is air dried. Many Scottish distilleries use the smoke from peat fires to dry the barley with the obvious smoky flavour a result. After the malted barley is dried, it’s ground to form grist and then mixed with water (“crystal clear soft water off Dumgoyne Hill”) in a mash tun, a large vat with rotating paddles. The resulting liquid is called wort.

"whiskey still"

Scotch whiskey still

The wort is then put into large fermenting vats called wash-backs. At Glengoyne the wash-back is made with Oregon pine. At this stage the yeast is added and the malt sugars are converted into alcohol during the 40-50 hour fermentation process. The resulting product,called wash  is ready for the next step – distillation using a pot still. Two distillations take place (versus three for Irish whiskey because “they can’t get it right after two times” – though spoken in jest!) The distillation process at Glengoyne is slower than at other distilleries – supposedly for producing a smoother taste though I’m certainly not qualified to judge.

The last step is maturation in oak casks. Glengoyne uses American and Spanish oak casks, some of which are seasoned with sherry first. Ten years is the minimum amount of time that the whiskey is aged. The final product at the Glengoyne Distillery is a fresher, lighter product compared to the smoky, peaty whiskies of Islay.

Factors Affecting Style of a Malt Whiskey

The difference in flavour profiles for scotch comes down to the following factors:

  • the barley, especially the malting
  • the yeast
  • the water
  • the design and height of the head of the still
  • the maturation process.
"Glengoyne Distillery"

Glengoyne Distillery Shop

One couple we met had a double tasting of scotch and found the last half of the day on the West Highland Way floated by quite nicely.

Don’t miss the distillery tour – consider it part of your cultural education.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Crossing the Zambezi River on the Kazungula Ferry

July 20, 2010

A few years ago I crossed the Zambezi River above Victoria Falls between Zambia and Botswana. My trip was via a private boat and lasted all of about 10 minutes. The other option is the Kazungula Ferry.

"Kazungula Ferry"

Kazungula Ferry

The ferry operates between Kazungula, Zambia and Kasane, Botswana. It’s all of 400 meters across the Zambezi River. The ferry plays an important role as part of Africa’s  north-south transportation corridor. Now look again at the picture and notice the ONE truck on the ferry. Therein lies the problem. The wait time for a truck going in either direction is ONE WEEK. No reservations are taken. Truckers know they just have to show up, get in line, kill time, play cards and socialize for the week.

There is an alternative road through Zimbabwe. It’s much faster but unfortunately it’s not a particularly safe road;  huge numbers of truckers elect to wait out the week for the Kazungula ferry. A bridge across the Zambezi River was announced in 2007. Yesterday’s Globe and Mail spoke of the lack of trade between African countries and the need for improvements to aid the flow of goods, particularly between Cairo and Capetown. Certainly a bridge providing timely and safe travel between Zambia and Botswana would go a long way to making that happen.

Tour dafrique 2008 091 Crossing the Zambezi River on the Kazungula Ferry

Zimbabwe (on the left of wires) - Botswana (on the right of wires) Border

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Hiking Tips for England & Scotland

July 19, 2010

I’ve just returned from 2 weeks of hiking in England and Scotland- including 6 days hiking the Cumbria Way in England’s Lake District and 7 days hiking Scotland’s West Highland Way from Milngavie to Fort William. I’ve done loads of hiking and backpacking but every trip teaches me something new. Here’s my list of tips that will likely make your hike more enjoyable, especially in rainy, windy Great Britain.

Don’t leave home without the following:

  • If you have a choice of raincoats at home pick the most waterproof one. I have a lightweight Marmot and a heavier Arc’teryx and the Arc’teryx was worth its weight in gold especially on the days when it was sheeting rain. One of our B&B hosts was on a Lake District search and rescue team and swore by the British made Paramo brand.
  • DO NOT BRING PONCHOS!!! You won’t be able to see your feet.
  • Bring arm warmers. You can buy them in a bike shop. They’re lightweight and you can easily vary how far up and down your arm you want them. They aren’t a fashion statement but in Great Britain’s climate they make tremendous sense.
  • If you’re planning to camp on the West Highland Way, which is a popular option, then bring a head net to combat the midges. Otherwise it will look like you have a bad case of pimples. Also bring an insect repellent with at least 30% Deet. The midges were never really a problem for hikers but mornings and evenings in some spots were brutal for the campers – especially setting up and taking down a tent.

819986391 54c8dc4381 Hiking Tips for England & Scotland

  • Before you set out on any hike, head to the local drugstore and buy a variety of sizes of Compeed – a miracle product for blisters. The blister on my friend’s foot in the picture below is one of the biggest I’ve ever seen but Compeed actually made hiking with it possible.
blister Hiking Tips for England & Scotland

Humongous Blister - saved by Compeed

  • If you usually wear a sunhat the bring one with a wide brim that you can tie on – otherwise the wind will whip it off. Bring something to wear on your head when it’s pouring rain.
  • Use a baggage transfer service – Sherpa Van for much of England and the West Highland Way, Travel-lite for the West Highland Way only or Luggage Transfers for the South West Coast path. Door to door pickup and drop-off from hotels and sometimes campsites is offered for a very reasonable fee. I met one fellow who spoke eloquently on Day 1 of the purity of carrying everything on your back. By Day 4 he had hired the service and had decided that his next holiday was going to involve beaches instead. The long distance hikes are hard enough without adding 20-25 pounds to your back.
  • Bring socks of varying thickness. Lightweight, liner type socks were sometimes more comfortable than traditional hiking socks.
  • Get a set of good maps especially for the Cumbria Way which is poorly signed in places. Bring a compass and don’t rely solely on a GPS. Batteries die.
  • If you’re a big water drinker then you might want to consider brings drops or a water filter to add to your supply on a long day. There were always plenty of streams but water absolutely needs to be disinfected especially in sheep and cow country.
  • Bring extra food with you. On many days shops were nonexistent until the end of the day.
  • Keep small change so you can make a telephone call from the rare payphone. Most restaurants and hotels were kind enough to offer but there were occasions where we needed the money to make the call. Foreigners might find cell phone roaming and usage calls outrageously expensive.
  • Long distance walks in England and Scotland are harder than you might think. Before you go, get in shape and put in the miles on the boots you plan to wear. If at all possible hike on a variety of terrain beforehand – up hills and down hills. Try hiking  two to three 10-12 mile days in a row before you go.
  • Be mentally prepared for long days. One day on the West Highland Way was 13 miles – about average – but it felt much longer because there was so much scrambling around rocks and roots. If you know that’s going to be the case you’re much more likely to deal with it in a positive manner.
  • I had two bad days of rain, one day with on and off rain and the rest were either cloudy or sunny. Overall I felt lucky to have as little rain as I did. Go expecting rain and anyday it doesn’t happen is a bonus.
  • Don’t bother asking for directions in Scotland. It’s not that the Scots aren’t willing and helpful. It’s the fact that you likely won’t understand a word they say with their thick Scottish accents. It’s highly embarrassing asking someone to repeat themselves three and four times.
  • On a few of the longer days I pulled out my IPod for the last few miles. The music energized me and took my mind off of sore feet.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

July 14, 2010

The second half of the West Highland Way in Scotland takes you from the Tyndrum area to Fort William, a distance of almost 45 miles. Along the way you pass through the Bridge of Orchy, with only one hotel and bunkhouse, continue to the Inveroran Hotel (there’s nothing more to the place), then head across 9 miles of desolate moor known as Rannoch Moor. From there it’s an easy hike down to the Glencoe Ski Resort and on to King’s House Hotel. Rock climbers and hikers share this place with the deer – which are often visible first thing in the morning.

West Highland Way 021 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

On the way from Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran

West Highland Way 023 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

The Old Parliamentary Road through desolate Rannoch Moor.

West Highland Way 027 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland King’s House is one of Scotland’s oldest, licensed inns. It was built in the 17th century and used as barracks for King George III after the Battle of Culloden.

West Highland Way 028 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

Cottage dwarfed by the mountains at the bottom of the Devil's Staircase.

The Devil’s Staircase is not nearly as bad as it sounds. An elevation gain of 1000 feet over a series of switchbacks places you at the highest point on the West Highland Way with superb views in all directions.

West Highland Way 032 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

View from the highest point on the West Highland Way

Along the West Highland Way one tends to bump into the same people over and over again. We met a couple in their 60′s from Australia who had sold all their worldly possessions and were hiking from Lands End in the south of England to John O’Groats at the north end of Scotland. A newlywed Dutch couple were faithful dinner companions. Several Scottish couples were encountered plus a mother – daughter team. The daughter was a real trooper, and the only one out of six children who volunteered to accompany her mother.  She was all of 13 years old and managed a couple of twenty mile days!

West Highland Way 035 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

Mother and 13 year old daughter on the last day hiking the Way.

The last half of the last day was tedious at times and by then you typically just want to be done. We were fortunate to come upon 4 men and 12 border collies rounding up the sheep. It was a magnificent sight.

West Highland Way 039 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

Sheep farmer with border collies.

Near the end of the day Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Great Britain, came into full view. I have heard that there are only 60 days of the year where the view from the top is clear. Well, yesterday was one of them. Close to 160 inches of snow and rain fall on the mountain every year and gale force winds are typical on two out of every three days. Still it’s a mountain that beckons.

West Highland Way 041 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

Ben Nevis - Britain's highest mountain.

The end of the West Highland Way is underwhelming. It’s a gravel road down to a path to a roadside path. The finish is to be moved in the next few weeks to the town center, another mile away. No matter what the finish you’ll find me smiling.

And after one day off I’ve got the exercise itch already.

West Highland Way 043 Hiking Highlights on the 2nd Half of the West Highland Way, Scotland

Donna and I at the finish of the West Highland Way

 Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Highlights of Scotland’s West Highland Way – Milngavie to Tyndrum

July 11, 2010

Scotland’s West Highland Way is a 153 km (95 mile) long distance walk from Milngavie, just outside of Glasgow to Fort William 95 miles or so north. It typically takes about a week and rewards with superb view of mountains and lochs, beautiful ancient oak forests draped with moss, waterfalls galore and friendly people. Below are photos from the first half of the trip – Milngavie to Tyndrum.

West Highland Way 0032 Highlights of Scotlands West Highland Way Milngavie to Tyndrum
View of the islands along the Highland Boundary Fault from Conic Hill
West Highland Way 0071 Highlights of Scotlands West Highland Way Milngavie to Tyndrum

Striped Cows - a first for me.

West Highland Way 009 Highlights of Scotlands West Highland Way Milngavie to Tyndrum

View of Loch Lomond after the rain

West Highland Way 016 Highlights of Scotlands West Highland Way Milngavie to Tyndrum

Hikers and Bikers along the West Highland Way

West Highland Way 017 Highlights of Scotlands West Highland Way Milngavie to Tyndrum

On the West Highland Way near Tyndrum

Unfortunately we’re getting fairly typical Highland weather – light showers, heavy mist, light rain, light mist, medium rain and heavy rain. Occasionly the sun pops out. When it does we are rewarded with incredible views. It’s been windy enough that the dreaded midges haven’t been a concern.

West Highland Way 015 Highlights of Scotlands West Highland Way Milngavie to Tyndrum

Forest Carpeting

Stay tuned for more blogs on Scottish dining, a distillery visit, the highlights of the last half of the walk and more insight into long distance walking in Great Britain.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

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