Incredible Irish Islands
June 21, 2010
The west coast of Ireland is dotted with islands – incredibly beautiful, romantic islands. Take time to visit; you may find that they end up being the highlight of your visit. They were for me.
The Aran Islands
The Aran Islands are perhaps the best known of the Irish islands, probably because of their famous Aran knit sweater, a useful water repellent piece of clothing worn by the farmers and fisherman. (Incidentally each family had its own carefully guarded pattern and unique combination of stitches. The sweaters were one of the ways of identifying fisherman who had drowned and washed up on shore.) The islands are located 9 miles off the coast of Galway and are accessed by two passenger only ferries, one from Doolin and one from Rossaveal. Take the Doolin one if you’re in the vicinity of the Cliffs of Moher and have a wish to be scared to death and likely seasick for 90 minutes. The 40 minute ride from Rossaveal is a piece of cake in comparison.
Once you arrive in Inishmore, the largest island and home to 800 mostly Irish speakers, you’ll find there’s plenty to enjoy over a few days. Rent a bike and cycle the island on very scenic, very quiet, mostly easy backroads. It’s a good way to get the flavour of the whole island. You could also:
- Visit Dun Aengus, a 4000 year old fort perched on a cliff
- Go bird watching
- Take a ride on a pony cart
- Watch the local fisherman fish from their tar and canvas boats called currachs and if you happen to be there in June catch currach races at the Patrun Festival (June 25-27, 2010)
- Enjoy traditional music in a local pub
- Walk to the Church of St. Benan, reputed to be the smallest in the world
- Check out the Black Fort, another cliffside ruin only a few miles from Kilronan
- Look for a seal colony along the coastal road about 2 miles from Kilronan
Stay at the Pier House - a comfortable but by no means fancy place overlooking Kilronan Pier. The onsite restaurant is wonderful.
The Blasket Islands
If you’re walking or driving the Dingle Way then it’s impossible to miss the stunning views of the Blasket Islands near Slea Head. The islands lie three kilometers off the Dingle Peninsula and can be reached by a 20 minute ferry ride. Once on the islands you can walk, hike and swim. Before you head for the islands you could visit The Great Blasket Center in Dunquin. The center highlights the unique way of life that has existed on the island. The residents are famous for producing a large amount of Irish literature. In fact the Blasket Islander’s distinctive life coupled with its rich history of literature is the basis for a World Heritage Site application.
The Skellig Islands
The Skellig Islands are 2 steep and rocky islands lying about 16 kilometers off the coast of the Iveragh Peninsula and are accessed by boat from either Portmagee or Caherdaniel. The smaller of the islands is home to 28,000 breeding pairs of gannets. These birds have a wingspan of six feet so the sheer mass of birds is mind boggling. They have the good sense to leave for Africa sometime in October and return again in the spring. They are not to be missed.
Gannets, gannets everywhere!
The larger island goes by the name of Skellig Michael. It was originally settled in 490AD by Christian monks. The monks endured at least four Viking raids but remained on the island for about 500 years. The island was abandoned in the twelfth century when the monks headed to the Augustinian monastery on the mainland. Two lighthouses were established beginning in 1820 but apart from the lighthouse keepers there has been little human traffic so the site is in excellent shape. The island became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
A visit to Skellig Michael requires a head for heights and the ability to climb 600 stairs. The beehive huts that are part of the monastery are built at the top of the stairs. The island consists of nothing but cliffs. There are no handrails so people with a fear of heights can be seen coming down the stairs on their rear ends. There are a few small flat sections so one can bring a lunch and enjoy the view. Puffins nest on the steep hillside so you can also enjoy watching their comings and goings.
Climbing the 600 Stairs on Skellig Michael
Boat trips to the Skellig Islands can be reserved in advance and it is likely your B&B host will be able to provide that service. The very pretty town of Portmagee about 20 minutes away from Cahirciveen has the most departures though unfortunately you won’t know until the morning of the day that you plan to go if the boat will run. Boats are only able to run 100 days of the year because of weather and wave conditions. They almost never operate in the winter but summer is no guarantee as even in August of 2008 they were only able to run half the time.
There are several companies running trips and prices are in the order of 40 Euros per person. Michael O’Sullivan doesn’t have a website but can be reached at: Waterville Boats lobsterb@iol.ie Ph: +353 (0) 66 9474800/ Michael +353(0) 87 2202355 Pat +353(0) 87 4178268.
Journey times depend on the boat size but are typically 45 minutes each way. The boats circle Little Skellig Island and then drop you off on Skellig Michael. You are given about 2 hours to walk up and explore which is adequate time. Be warned that there are no bathroom facilities on the island.
Clare Island
Clare Island is accessed from Roonah Point, close to Westport. Spectacular cliffs make for some interesting walking. Bicycling is also possible. It is a short 20 minute ferry ride and it is possible to stay in a B&B or the one hotel.
Inishbofin Island
Inishbofin Island is 10 kilometres off the coast near Clifden and is accessed via a 30 minute ferry ride from the small fishing village of Cleggan. There are cliff top walks, white, sandy beaches and interesting flora and fauna.
I’ve missed a few of the Irish islands but if you’re read this far then you can see what incredible places they are to visit. Put Ireland on your travel wish list. You won’t be disappointed.
Leigh McAdam
Connemara, Ireland – Well Worth A Visit
June 4, 2010
There’s a lot to see and explore in the Connemara region of western Ireland. You could easily spend a week touring by car or by bike; many bike tour companies offer trips of the area.
Connemara
Connemara is the name that is given to the area in county Galway which lies in south western Ireland between the Atlantic Ocean and Lough Corrib in the east. It is a beautiful and at times desolate area filled with coves, cliffs, loughs (lakes), peat bogs and quiet moorland. It is home to Connemara National Park and The Twelve Bens, a small mountain range that can be climbed in a day by the very fit. There are numerous pretty, small villages and the gorgeous Kylemore Abbey to visit.
Drive or cycle this area but stay to the backroads if you bike. Irish drivers treat every road as though it were a race track. You can rent a bike in Galway from BikeHireIreland - for a day or a week. They also offer tours if you’re interested.
80 km/hr Speed Limit on This Road
The Clifden area was a real treat as was Westport. If you make it to the Westport area try a climb of Croagh Patrick. Croagh Patrick is a Christian pilgrimage site. Back in 441 AD Saint Patrick fasted for forty days. The pilgrimage is in honour of him and on the last Sunday in July (Reek Sunday) you can expect to experience the mountain with 15,000 other pilgrims who attempt it, some in bare feet only. It is nonetheless a very worthwhile climb with fabulous views over Clew Bay. The peak rises to 764 metres (2510 feet). After the climb you can enjoy a bite to eat in the cafe at the base and a trip across the street to the National Famine Monument (the monument is interesting – hardly enjoyable)
Other activities to enjoy in Connemara are:
- A visit to Connemara National Park.
The Park is located just outside the town of Letterfrack. It covers over 2000 hectares of mountain, woodlands, grasslands and bogs. It is open all year though the visitor centre is only open from March to October. There are well signed paths of varying length including a walk to the top of Diamond Hill. The park encloses several of the Twelve Bens which can also be hiked.
- Visit one of the offshore islands
Inishbofin Island and Clare Island are two islands that are worthy of a visit if time permits. You will also need the weather to be cooperative as the ferries don’t run if sea conditions are too rough.
Inishbofin is 10 kilometres off the coast near Clifden and is accessed via a 30 minute ferry ride from the small fishing village of Cleggan. There are cliff top walks, white, sandy beaches and interesting flora and fauna.
Clare Island is accessed from Roonah Point, closer to Westport. Spectacular cliffs make for some interesting walking. Bicycling is also possible. It is a short 20 minute ferry ride and it is possible to stay in a B&B or the one hotel.
- Head to the Leenane Cultural Centre
The centre overlooks Killary’s beautiful harbour in Leenane. The center began in 1992 with a mandate to display the various stages and techniques used in the woollen industry of the area. You can learn about carding, spinning, weaving and dyeing wool. Then check out over twenty different types of sheep that graze the grounds. You can also enjoy home cooking shopping on the premises.
- Visit Kylemore Abbey
Kylemore Abbey
Kylemore Abbey is the only Irish home of the Benedictine monks. The entrance fee for an adult is 12 Euros. You can wander the grounds, see a few of the rooms in the abbey, check out the basilica and spend time contemplating how it would be to live in an area of such beauty. There is also a six acre Victorian walled garden. The Abbey is located on a lake with mountains as a backdrop but what really gives the place some character are the large trees which one sees so little of in Ireland. You will need at least an hour for the Abbey.
- Check out the town of Cong
The town of Cong is well known for golf and fishing. It is also a lovely town for walking and poking about the many craft shops. Wander by the ruins of the Augustine Abbey, dating from the early 13th century. The movie ‘Quiet Man’ with John Wayne was filmed here in 1952. Tours are available for four Euros at the Quiet Man cottage. The grounds of the Ashford Castle Hotel are worth a visit too.
Insights, tips and good reading from travel blogs around the world – part V
February 25, 2010
Enjoy this week’s list of insights, travel tips and good reading from travel blogs around the world.
Canyon de Chelly (Arizona, USA)
Travel for Sporting Events
Wanderlust as a Physical Pain
The Pieterpad – 500 km across Holland by foot and bike
3 Best Kept Travel Secrets: Rwandan Safari, Chernobyl and Damascus
The Evils of Group Tours
Leigh McAdam
Connemara and the Aran Islands of Ireland Bike Tour Guide Published
October 21, 2009
The 16 page Connemara biking guide has been published and is available as a free download.
Connemara, the Burren region and the Aran Islands are all worthwhile stops to include on a trip to western Ireland. The bike tour includes a loop which begins in the city of Galway and then heads north to reach the scenic and rocky Burren region. A short but brutal ferry ride (when the waves are big) takes you over to the Aran Islands which are absolutely lovely for cycling and for exploring on foot.
Cycling the Burren region
Next head back on a less bouncy ferry and continue up the coast through Clifden and Westport. The trip ends in Cong and it is a short one hour shuttle back to Galway from there.
Highlights of the region are:
- beautiful views from the Cliffs of Moher
- Doolin pubs and music
- gorgeous, rock strewn, quiet roads to cycle on the Aran Islands
- rocky hills of the Burren region
- biking Sky Road near Clifden
- the climb of Croagh Patrick, near Westport
- the wind when it’s at your back
- the Village of Cong and Ashford Castle
- charming B&B’s and Irish hospitality
In the guide you will find tips on getting to Galway, renting bikes, route descriptions, accommodation and restaurant ideas where appropriate and a full packing list and links to useful information.
This is a trip for the months between May and September. And yes, the weather can be rainy but not for long. Come and enjoy the Irish countryside and their unique brand of hospitality.
Leigh McAdam
hikebiketravel.com
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Racing car dreams in Ireland
June 1, 2009
I have recently returned from nearly a month of research in western Ireland which included 400 kilometres of biking in Connemara, the Burren and the Aran Islands. While the scenery was first rate the biking experience often was not.
The backroads of Ireland are narrow, windy, rough, shoulderless and often blind. They are almost never patrolled. Signs for speed limits range from 80 -100 kilometres but the average speed with an Irish person at the wheel is well in excess of 100 kms/hour, even in small villages with posted signs of 50 kms/hour. It was very easy to pick out the North American driven rental cars as they invariably slowed down for cyclists and provided a measure of comfort by keeping more than a foot away. In the past Vietnam was my standard for wild and crazy cycling but no longer. I feared for my life on several occasions and asked whatever deity was listening to look out for me. NEVER, EVER ride the busy roads into Galway.
Now if you are a racing car enthusiast then get yourself to Ireland
because you will not get a speeding ticket, you will never see the police, and you will have one heck of a good time taking the curves at 120 kms/hour BUT please give us cyclists a break.
A Whiter Shade of Pale
May 5, 2009
I think I now know where Procol Harum got the title for the famous song. I believe it was while crossing from Doolin to Kilronan on Inishmore, one of the Aran Islands off the coast of western Ireland.
A few days ago about 15 of us plus our bikes boarded the passenger only ferry in Doolin for the 90 minute crossing. Within minutes of leaving the dock I had to put my stomach on lockdown orders. So did everyone else. That’s when I noticed that the seats were welded, not bolted to the deck so what we were to experience was probably pretty typical.
At first everyone was quite jolly and laughed as gear scattered with every hit of a wave but when the waves started washing over the back deck it wasn’t quite so funny. Then I think we are all secretly wondering why on earth we are going over to these desolate, god forsaken islands.
Fortunately after about an hour we got into the lee of some of the smaller islands where it was tempting to remove the lockdown orders. That wasn’t to be as the strength of the waves picked right back up in between islands.
Once we did reach Kilronan some of the locals said they were too scared to take the Doolin ferry and preferred the larger one out of Rossavael. However the Doolin ferry permits a nice circle bike tour out of Galway but wish we could pick our travel weather in advance.
Once on Inishmore there are quiet roads verging on goat tracks at times for truly lovely cycling. You can visit Don Aonghasa, a spectacularly situated fort dating back to 2000 BC. Cycling along the coast is also possible for about six kilometres and all the while you can enjoy the vistas and the incredible patchwork of rock walls. Birdlife is first rate too.
You don’t usually need to reserve ahead of time for the Doolin ferry but for more information visit www.doolinferry.com and you too can look forward to an unforgettable jouney.
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