Bike Myra Canyon on the amazing Kettle Valley Railway

July 26, 2010

A recent trip to British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley included a full day of cycling on the Kettle Valley Railway (KVR). The Kettle Valley Railway’s history date back to the early 1900’s when silver was discovered near Nelson, British Columbia.  Years of surveying and building culminated in an official rail opening in 1915. In later years the economic importance of the railway line decreased and some sections or subdivisions as they are called were phased out and by 1990 the last of the railway lines was abandoned. Fortunately the railway line was converted to trail and now 600 kilometers (360 miles) are open for backcountry use.

The KVR trail is true wilderness. It winds through the backcountry of southern BC passing through a range of environments including vineyards, orchards, forests, lakes, deserts and mountains. Small centers are connected via the trail –places like Beaverdell, McCulloch, Chute Lake, Coalmont, and Brookmere which are mere dots on the map and at most have a few places to stay. Tunnels, bridges, wild animals, rattlesnakes, extreme heat and thunderstorms are some of the hazards one might encounter.

Myra Canyon

Short sections can be hiked but every summer more and more mountain bikers are discovering the joys of this trail. It’s possible to cycle one day sections near some of the bigger centers like Penticton and Kelowna. One of the most scenic sections to cycle is the 20 kilometer section through the Myra Canyon, about 1000 meters above Kelowna. Fires in 2003 burnt 12 of the trestles and blackened over 20,000 hectares. Through the efforts of the Myra Canyon Trestle Restoration Society, private individuals and several layers of government, funding was secured and the trestles were rebuilt. The Myra Canyon section of the Kettle Valley Railway reopened in 2008; the section is suitable for people with a range of cycling abilities – from families to experts. Cycle over eighteen trestles and through two tunnels over 20 kilometers (12 miles). 

If you have more than half a day then I highly recommend cycling from Myra Canyon to Penticton – a distance of about 80kms. Monashee Tours based in Kelowna can shuttle you to the start and pick you up at an agreed upon rendezvous site at the end of the day. At about the half way mark Chute Lake Resort appears. Stock up on cold drinks, burgers and homemade apple or rhubarb pie before continuing. Buy extra cold drinks if it’s a hot day. It took the better part of 6 hours to cycle the 80 kms and the last two hours were hot,  34C and dehydration was definitely a problem.

Although it’s downhill all the way from Chute Lake to Penticton, on a railway grade of 2.2%, it’s by no means an easy ride. You have to deal with a great deal of sand which takes a light tough on the handlebars. Watch for rattlesnakes through the Rock Ovens and shortly after you pass Hillside Winery look for The Trail Store – a perfect place for a summertime cold drink, slushie or ice cream cone, all provided by an incredibly hospitable family!

If you want to cycle the entire Kettle Valley Railway then it’s a good idea to purchase the book – Cycling the Kettle Valley Trail by Dan & Sandra Langford.  They provide route notes and lots of helpful information though their layout is confusing. I’ll have a blog later in the week on where to stay between Midway and Brookmere.

Some sections of the KVR are truly first class and well worth cycling. In particular you won’t go wrong with the Myra Canyon section.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Banff to Jasper Bike Guide Published

July 8, 2010

My 19th free guide is ready to download. Start planning your summer bike ride along the Banff to Jasper Highway. 

The 290 kilometre (180 mile) bike tour between Banff and Jasper is considered to be one of the most impressive mountain rides in the world. The ride runs parallel to the Continental Divide, and can start in either Banff or Jasper, both of which are exceptionally scenic towns.

Highlights include:  

• Stunning panoramas for the entire ride
• Mind numbing views
• Banff and Jasper National Parks
• Johnston Canyon
• The towns of Banff and Lake Louise
• Bow Pass
• Columbia Icefields
• Peyto Lake
• Wildlife sightings

The best time to cycle the Banff to Jasper Highway is in July and August. You still have time this year.

Leigh McAadam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bike or Drive BC’s Gorgeous Sea to Sky Highway

June 29, 2010

The Sea to Sky Highway, aka Highway 99, is an incredibly scenic, cliff hugging road that takes you from West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay to Whistler, home of the 2010 winter Olympics. After three plus years of highway improvements including the addition of lanes and wider shoulders, bikers can now cycle this road with some degree of safety all the way through to Whistler. Before the improvements it was unthinkable – in fact it was a death defying feat. You still need to exercise caution and don’t try cycling it on a busy holiday weekend.

There are a number of small communities to explore as you head north to Whistler from Horseshoe Bay. Lions Bay is the first community you encounter, only 12 kms away. Look for a cafe serving excellent smoothies and check out the gallery featuring local artists. Next discover Porteau Cove, 13 kms north. It’s a small provincial park, popular with weekend campers. Excellent views across to Anvil Island and nice beaches beckon you to stop and picnic.

Exercise extreme caution as you leave Porteau Cove on your bike. The next kilometer boasts a narrow shoulder and it’s not where you want to be if a bus goes by. The Furry Creek Golf Course soon appears on your right. It has an enviable location but I have never seen a human being around.

Brittannia Beach is the next stop, 8.5  kms away. Part of that distance is up a monster hill – and down it. Just before the town look for the Galileo Coffee Shop. It’s here I saw offered for the first time ever a Canadiano – an  Americano coffee with maple syrup. Brittania Beach is a small community of 300. It owes its origins to a copper discovery. By the early 1900′s the Britannia Mine had opened and in 1929  it was the largest producer of copper in the British Commonwealth. Underground tours are available seven days a week and you can even pan for gold.

Nine kilometers after Brittania Beach, Shannon Falls appears. It’s the third highest waterfall in British Columbia and an especially impressive sight after a storm. The big hunk of granite known as Stawamus Chief is next. It’s an internationally famous slab of rock to climb.  Hikers also get a great workout hiking one of the trails to the top of the Chief’s three summits. The first peak is the shortest route.

It’s only a short 3-4 kilometers to reach Squamish from The Chief but unfortunately this section of road is a challenge for cyclists. The wide shoulder disappears and doesn’t reappear until you get through the town. Exercise extreme caution is you elect to continue through here. Squamish bills itself as the Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada.

It’s another 59 kms to reach Whistler from Squamish. Along the way there are many opportunities to hike and even swim in the summer. Alice Lake is a very popular destination as is Brandywine Falls, 34 kms north of Squamish. Stunning views of the Tantalus Range greet you as you get closer to Whistler. There are a number of pullouts along the highway so you can fully appreciate the view.

It’s a total of 85 kms from Horseshoe Bay to Whistler. I don’t know what the elevation gain is but I do know it’s up there – somewhere around 5500 feet. Go prepared – with food, water and some warmer clothes. If you’re driving count on 75 minutes from Horseshoe Bay to Whistler without stops.

As an aside, the first ever Gran Fondo cycling event will be held in September beginning  in Stanley Park and ending in Whistler – a distance of 120 kms with approximately 7000 feet of elevation gain. One highway lane will be closed for the event. I have started training!

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Eight Reasons to Visit Quebec’s Eastern Townships This Year

June 24, 2010

If you’ve never been to Quebec’s Eastern Townships then you’re in for a treat. The area lies south of the St. Lawrence River and roughly one hour east of Montreal by car. To the south, is the United States, specifically the State of Vermont. There are lots of small towns including some of Quebec’s Most Beautiful Villages.

The Eastern Townships are a year round vacation destination with lots of outdoor activities for both summer and winter. Late spring, summer and early fall are the best times to visit if you’re biking. Visit in late November through March if you’re a skier but visit anytime if you’re looking for a romantic getaway.

Eight Reasons to Visit

1. Beautiful, rolling farm country

2. Some of Quebec’s Most Beautiful Villages

3. Scenic wine country and wine tastings

4. Incredible leaf colours in September and October

5. St. Benoit du Lac Abbey – for the setting, architecture, cider and cheeses

6. Excellent cuisine. You’ll find lots of small cafes too serving coffee and pastries.

7. Quiet cycling along The Green Route

8. Well appointed and friendly B&B’s with the option of 5 star accommodation

It goes without saying that the Francophone culture and friendly people only add to the experience.

Bon Voyage.

And if you’re interested in biking  then please feel free to download my ‘Biking the Eastern Townships and Route Verte of Quebec’ guide.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

10 Activities in the Pacific Northwest in June

May 31, 2010

You’d never know the June was less than 24 hours away if you looked at the thermometer. I’m an optimist that sunnier, warmer days are just ahead; here are 9 activities that would be fun to do in June in the Pacific Northwest.

• Portland Rose Festival  Numerous activities including a Grand Floral Walk, dragon boat races, a run, concerts, parades, BBQs and more.
• June 4-6 Tofino Food and Wine Festival Learn about sustainable food sources while you drink and eat local products. There are lots of great places to stay too including Middle Beach Lodge and Long Beach Lodge Resort.
• June 12 Crosby, Stills and Nash start off the summer season in a lovely amphitheatre at Chateau Ste. Michelle – one of Washington’s premier wineries. You’ll have to find tickets on Craig’s list now but check out their calendar of events for further summer concerts.
• June 19-20 head to the Rio Tinto Alcan Dragon Boat Festival  in Vancouver. Look for 180 teams and 90,000 visitors from around the world. The best viewing is near Science World.

• June 19-20th Comox Valley Shellfish Festival Get the sea to table story by BC’s shellfish farmers.
• Try a trip to Bend, Oregon.  This mountain town located at the edge of a desert, 6 hours from Seattle, enjoys 300 days per year of sunshine. Every outdoor sport imaginable is available in Bend.
• The West Coast Trail is on the must do list of many a backpacker but if you want a more remote experience that’s in line with what the West Coast Trail used to be then head up Vancouver Island and hike the recently completed North Coast Trail. This trail is a 43 km extension to the Cape Scott Trail. Go prepared for hard backpacking and wild, spectacular scenery.

• Try a visit to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. When you’re there you can kayak, bike, go whale watching, picnic, relax, take in some community theatre, dine, bird watch and enjoy about 80 other activities. There are some lovely accommodation choices including Friday Harbor House and the Dragonfly Inn. Make sure to visit Lime Kiln State Park and Roche Harbor.
• Take a culinary tour of Vancouver’s Chinatown, complete with lunch. Tours are offered every Saturday in June.
• June is the perfect month to cycle sections of the Kettle Valley Railway in the Okanagan area of BC. Choose one day sections with Monashee Tours or try a multi day B&B to B&B trip on your own.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Biking Wolfe Island, Ontario

May 20, 2010

Wolfe Island sits at the spot where Lake Ontario joins the St. Lawrence River. According to their website they are in fact one of the Thousand Islands. Wolfe Island is accessed by a year round, free ferry ride from the Kingston waterfront. From May to October you can also ferry over from Cape Vincent, New York. There’s a small customs office at Alexandria Point making it one of the easier points of entry into Canada. 

The last time I set foot on the island I was a Queen’s Universty student in the ’70′s. This week I was here to cycle and explore. 

First the good news. The island still retains it’s laid back charm. There are lots of farmers, a few small businesses, several artists, a golden retriever breeder, welders, boatbuilders… There aren’t alot of services. For meals look to a small restaurant at The General Wolfe Hotel and at Brown’s Bay Inn. A bakery is well situated across from the ferry lineup. There are a few places to stay on the island and the best one by far (and most expensive) is the Wolfe Manor B&B. It’s housed in an impressive building that is worth a visit even if you aren’t staying.

My plan was to bike the three suggested cycling routes- which were 18, 28 and 58 kms respectively.  You can download the routes from their website. Rent bikes on the island in the summer at the Summer Dock Studio, across from Fargo’s Store but reserve ahead of time by calling 613-385-1868. Otherwise rent in Kingston or bring one with you.

The shorter route started well with lovely water views and very peaceful biking. In fact all I could hear were the birds especially since the migration is on. There were lots I’d never seen before but I forgot my binoculars. About halfway into the first loop you hit gravel road. Fine initially but stay tuned. You can link up with the 28km route without going all the back to Marysville. Do take the side excursion to Big Sandy Bay. This is a good place for a picnic. Enjoy protected dunes and a sandy beach.

After leaving the beach you hit pavement again on the main road (95) linking the two ferries. Continue on this road until you reach the ferry to New York State. It’s pretty countryside through here. Then either retrace your steps to stay on pavement or meander back to Marysville on any number of dirt side roads.

Those two routes were fine – mostly peaceful, easy cycling. The 58 km route was a disappointment, mostly because I couldn’t do it. There is alot of construction going on (more wind turbines or ???) so there are lots of HUGE dumptrucks. It hasn’t rained in awhile so every time a truck went by there was so much dust you literally couldn’t  see across the road. Perhaps the trucks only operate turning the week but until the construction is finished it’s not worth trying the long route.

I guess progress means wind farms and that’s exactly what Wolfe Island has become – one giant windfarm. Someone on the ferry loved their look – very futuristic she thought whereas I see them as a blight on the landscape. I’m sure their construction caused considerable debate. On the bright side they do warn you ahead of time if it’s too windy to cycle.

So is Wolfe Island worth a visit? Yes if you’re in the Kingston area and staying for a few days. It would be a great side trip for all those Queen’s parents with time on their hands.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

8 Reasons to Visit Prince Edward County, Ontario

May 19, 2010

You’ll find Prince Edward County halfway between Ottawa and Toronto, and just south of Belleville. The county borders Lake Ontario’s north shore and the Bay of Quinte. If you’re driving on the Highway 401 and blink, you’ll miss the exit.

This is farm country with a difference. Here are 8 good reasons to visit for a weekend.

• As Beppi Crosariol of the Globe and Mail points out – the counry has come of age and by this he is referring to the quality of the wines. With over 20 wineries there is plenty to taste. Buyer beware – some wines are made from grapes grown in the Niagara area. 
• Take a cooking class at The Waring House. They offer classes on Sundays from 10:30am to 1:30 pm. Try Indian Cuisine, the Mexican Taco Stand or Sushi Basics. Check out their online schedule for lots more offerings.
• Birding is excellent and although the spring migration is over you’re sure to find lots of birds, especially at the Prince Edward Point Bird Observatory. You’ll see lots of waterfowl, raptors and song birds there.
• Look for the signed Arts Trail which takes you to 27 artists around the county. You’ll find potters, painters, sculptors, glassblowers and jewelers, blacksmiths and photographers as well as many multi artist galleries. Be sure to visit La De Dah Sculpture Studio, the Mad Dog Gallery and the Oeno Gallery.
• Head for Sandbanks Provincial Park with some towels and a picnic basket. Here you’ll find sand dunes, long sandy beaches and sparkling water. Try some windsurfing or sailing too.
• Rent a bike in Picton or Bloomfield and head off with one of their bike maps to explore quiet back roads. Also look for the Waterfront Trail which will keep you close to …the waterfront.
• Check out the TasteTrail. Road signs guide you to 31 locations – from cheese makers to coffee shops and from the Buddha Dog to fine dining. Don’t miss The Carriage House Restaurant in Bloomfield. It’s recommended by Where to Eat in Canada. I picked up lunch goodies – think fine cheeses, fresh breads and fantastic desserts.
• For those of you who love spas head to Claramount Inn & Spa and enjoy the pampering.

If you live in Ontario what better time to go than this coming long weekend!!

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

A Love Affair…With My Bike

May 18, 2010

I’m closing in on the 47th anniversary of getting my first bike. The fact that I can remember the day and the bike so well (May 22/63 – turquoise CCM girls bike) I take as a sign that my life will always be connected  in some way to a bike. 

This week I’m biking Prince Edward County and the Kingston area in southern Ontario. I’m here to research another guide but really the backroads are calling. It’s not often at home I can spend more than 2 hours at a time on a bike. Here I’ve got the week in front of me and the more I bike the more reasons I find to continue the ride.

There’s the obvious exercise benefit which is good for the ticker and the HDL cholesterol but what it really means is I can eat guilt free and I love good food.

The air is perfumed with lilac; they are everyone and the smell is divine. How often do you think about scent in the car?

You focus on things when you’re on  a bike that you don’t in a car – things like hills, weather, glass, shoulders but also birds, frogs, turtles, funky doorways and unusual signs, like the one I saw yesterday - Shattered Glass –  outside of a glass studio. You might notice some of those things in a car but they don’t often bring you to a screeching halt.

People wave to you- alot!. You aren’t seen as threatening and in my experience people love to chat. They’re curious especially if you’re riding with panniers. They’re almost always happy to engage, especially on country roads where you’re seen as an oddity. Wearing a bike helmet seems to be an ice breaker.

Some of my best thinking happens on a bike.  My mind wanders, examines possibilities, goes places that it never does when it’s confined to a computer and a desk. The world is full of possibilities on a bike.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

A Guide to Having Fun in the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

May 7, 2010

My 18th guide – The Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, A Wine Tour by Car and by Bike, has just been published. You can download it off the HikeBikeTravel website for free.

The Okanagan Valley is a long north-south valley located in the south central portion of BC, Canada, just north of the US border. The Okanagan is known for its sunny, dry climate with hot summers and cold winters. The arid landscape is punctuated with lakes and patches of green. It has become one of Canada’s premier grape growing and wine producing areas. There are upwards of 100 wineries, along the bluffs bordering the lakes, running the length of the valley from Vernon to Osoyoos.

The Okanagan is also one of Canada’s premier summertime playgrounds. There are so many things to do that you can’t help having fun. Highlights of the area include:

• Beautiful vineyards
• Fun wine tasting experiences
• Fantastic, scenic sections of the Kettle Valley Railroad (KVR) trail to hike and bike
• Tubing on the Okanagan River Channel
• Fine dining options at some wineries
• Interesting accommodation choices
• Lake swimming on hot summer days
• Old fashioned milkshakes in Okanagan Falls
• Excellent birding and wildlife viewing

Inside the guide look for: a 6 day itinerary, information on getting there, accommodation and restaurant choices, bike rental shops, companies offering an assortment of  tours - including one day to multi daybike rides on the Kettle Valley Railway, wine tours, wildlife tours and even boat tours on the lake. There’s lots of other useful information …download it and see for yourself.

I’m planning on visiting the Okanagan area again this summer and I just wish I had a week and not a weekend. You won’t go wrong with  a visit to this region.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

10 Not to be Missed Activities in the Pacific Northwest in May

May 2, 2010

Try out one or more of these ten not to be missed activities in the Pacific Northwest in May. Finish the ski season at Whistler-Blackcomb and start the hiking season on the Juan de Fuca Trail near Victoria or any of a number of trails in the Columbia River Gorge area of Oregon. Trips to wine country are always fun and what better excuse to visit Seattle then its film festival. Here’s a great lineup to keep you busy in the month of May.

• April 30th – May9th Okanagan Spring Wine Festival Enjoy over 100 events during the annual spring wine festival. Bud break is celebrated with gourmet dinners, fine lunches and wine and food pairings .
• May 9th  Vancouver Sun Run You’ve got a week to get your body into 10 km running shape. Join one of the biggest 10 k events in North America.

 

• May 15 Reach the Beach Be one of 3000 cyclists to cycle to the Pacific Ocean from Portland. Choose distances of 25, 50, 80 or 100 miles. Enjoy cycling through vineyards, forests and small towns. Finish at Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City on the coast.  Proceeds go to help the American Lung Association of Portland.
• May 20 – June 13 Seattle International Film Festival This year marks 35 years for the festival. It is the longest running and best attended film festival in the US. Tickets go on sale May 6th.
• May 28-30 EAT! Vancouver Sample culinary treats by top Canadian chefs over 3 days. You”ll find artisans, retailers, cookbook authors, wineries and local restaurants represented. Tickets are cheaper online!
• May 29-31 Swiftsure Sailing Race in Victoria’s Inner Harbour.  This is a premier long distance sailing race which draws participants from around the globe. There are 9 races over 4 courses.
• May 30 Ski to Sea Race in Bellingham, Washington. Either join a team or volunteer in this epic yearly event. There are 7 race legs that include cross country skiing, downhill skiing or snowboarding, running, road biking, canoeing, mountain biking and kayaking. A team of 8 racers begins on Mt. Baker and ends on Bellingham Bay. Originally the race was developed to showcase the recreational activities offered in the area. 
• Juan de Fuca Trail Hike this trail on the west coast of Vancouver Island anytime in May. It’s a mini version of the famous West Coast Trail except that it’s easier and day hikes are possible. The trailheads are only about an hour from Victoria, BC.  If you have the time and weather is on your side then hike all 47 kms of the trail over three to four days.
• Blackcomb Skiing Yes, you can still ski until May 24th on Blackcomb Mountain. If you like mountain bike races and skiing then enter the Crud 2 Mud Downhill on May 22nd. Start at the top of Whistler Mountain with your skis or snowboard and head to the bottom of the snow line. Pick up your mountain bike and finish in the Bike Park.
• Columbia River Gorge Anytime in May would be a great time to visit the 80 mile geological wonder that marks the boundary between Washington and Oregon. Try a hike, river cruise, visit a waterfall or take a windsurfing lesson.  Marvel at the cliffs that rise upwards of 4000 feet. The 1200 mile Columbia River is the fourth largest in the US.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

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  • The Caffeinated Traveller - Insights into world travel with colourful images – perfect with a cup of coffee.
  • The Planet D - Read about and watch videos on the ongoing adventure travels of Canada’s Dave Bouskill and Deb Corbeil.
  • The Professional Hobo - Adventures of a girl with no fixed address.
  • The Travel Expert(a) - Marina blogs about traveling in Central America AND plans and organizes trips in Costa Rica.
  • The World Effect - Excellent photography and writing are the hallmarks of Beau and Meggan’s round the world blog.
  • Trail of Ants - Check out this Brit’s excellent writing. He’s traveled on the Trans-Mongolian railway!
  • Travel Blissful - Follow Erica’s stories, tips, musings, video and photography as they relate to travel.
  • Travel Wonders of the World - Mark blogs about his travels to over 80 countries.
  • Travel Yourself - Follow Cailin as she travels the world one country at a time. Nice photography. Upcoming TV.
  • Traveling Canucks - Nicole and Cameron are a couple and a well traveled one at that with over 47 countries under their belt. Their photography is a treat for the eyes.
  • Traveling Greener - Sonya provides green travel news, trends and information.
  • Traveling Savage - Keith is a wonderful travel writer who tackles a wide range of off the beaten travel path topics.
  • Traveling the World by the Seat of our Pants - Follow the good, the bad and the nasty as this couple travels the world.
  • Travels with Phillip - Phillip writes about sharing his love of travel with his three kids. Lucky kids. Great adventures.
  • Travels with Two - Great website with lots of useful information for trip planning – especially for couples.
  • TravMonkey - Paul gives you detailed info for backpacking around the world.
  • Tuscany Tours - Offers full day and half day tours in Florence and Tuscany, Italy.
  • Uncornered Market - Look for human stories, photography, street food reporting and personal growth stories.
  • Vacation Rentals by Owner, Homes, Beach House, Condo rentals, Cabin rentals, Cottage, Beach rentals and Lake rentals. - Worldwide Leader – vacation property rentals that specializes in connecting property rental owners with travelers.
  • Vagabonding Life - Greg writes thought provoking articles about travel since escaping from the cubicles of corporate America.
  • Velvet Escape - Read about Keith’s escapes and adventure travels to some of the world’s most interesting places.
  • Wild Junket - Follow Nellie’s wild ride around the world. She’ll teach you how to swear in Spanish and get you up to speed on odd Asian habits!
  • World Clock - Find out what time it is anywhere in the world + get international dailing information.
  • World Electric Guide - Provides information on plug types and voltages in every country around the world.
  • Worldwide Airlines - You’ll find both the major and some of the obscure airlines in countries around the world.
  • Worldwide Weather - Get weather forecasts for most countires.