26 Weird, Wonderful and Useful Facts About Edmonton

February 1, 2012

Edmonton is the provincial capital of Alberta and not a place I knew much about until I started researching for this blog. I think of it as a city with nothing but big box stores, because that’s all I’ve seen as I drive through. And I know its bloody cold in the winter.

Sometimes what we think and the reality are two different things. I decided to research the city and look for weird, wonderful, useful and funny facts that anybody might enjoy reading about.

Here’s what I’ve learned about Edmonton.

  • Edmonton’s North Saskatchewan River Valley is the largest stretch of urban parkland in North America.
  • Edmonton is the northernmost North American city with a population over one million.
  • Edmonton is home to North America’s largest mall – the West Edmonton Mall, spanning the equivalent of 48 city blocks. It was the world’s largest mall until 2004.
26 Weird, Wonderful and Useful Facts About Edmonton

Water-slide in the West Edmonton Mall

  • There are no rats in Edmonton – or in all of Alberta for that matter.
  • Edmonton has over 30 annual festivals year round. Internationally renowned are the Folk, Fringe and Street Performers festival.
  • The University of Alberta has produced 67 Rhodes Scholars.
  • The Art Gallery of Alberta was founded in 1924 and is the oldest cultural institution in Alberta. It maintains a collection of over 6,000 objects.
  • Edmonton sits close to the geographic center of the province. It’s the main supply and service center for Canada’s oil sands.
  • On the first day of summer Edmonton enjoys 17 hours and three minutes of daylight. The sun rises at 5:04 and sets at 10:07.
  • Winter is another story. The sun rises at 8:49 and sets at 4:16, providing only seven hours and 27 minutes of daylight.
winter in edmonton 26 Weird, Wonderful and Useful Facts About Edmonton

A cold winter's day in Edmonton

  • The coldest day ever recorded in Edmonton was on January 26, 1972. The temperature was -48.3C with a wind-chill dropping it to -61C.
  • In July 1987 Edmonton was struck by a tornado – which peaked at a wind speed of 416 kilometers per hour (258 mph).  It cut a 40 kilometer swath through the city, and in places it was up to a kilometer wide. Twenty seven people were killed and more than 300 injured. It’s one of the worst natural disasters in Canadian history.
  • Edmonton was established in 1795 as a Hudson’s Bay Company post.
  • The Edmonton Oilers are a NHL franchise team but they started out as the Alberta Oilers and an original member of the World Hockey Association (now defunct).
  • Mark Messier, a famous NHL hockey player, was born in Edmonton. Wayne Gretzky played with the Edmonton Oilers.
  • There are over 70 golf courses in metropolitan Edmonton.
  • Edmonton is one of the largest cities by area in North America. It’s slightly larger than the country of Cyprus in the Mediterranean.
  • The Great Divide Waterfall, was installed in 1980 to celebrate Edmonton’s 75th anniversary. It’s 64 meters high, seven meters taller than Niagara Falls. It’s turned on every long weekend during the summer – and pumps out 50,000 liters of water per minute.
waterfall 26 Weird, Wonderful and Useful Facts About Edmonton

The Great Divide Waterfall

  • There are 275 kilometers of paths and sidewalks for cyclists – though they have to be shared with walkers. Also noteworthy are the 460 kilometers of unpaved single track and unimproved trails.
  • Elk Island National Park is less than an hour from Edmonton. It’s home to free roaming bison, moose, deer and elk.
elk island 26 Weird, Wonderful and Useful Facts About Edmonton

Bison in Elk Island National Park

  • Jasper National Park lies 370 kilometers west of Edmonton, about a four hour drive away.
  • Edmonton was the home of Wop May – a famous bush pilot who fought the Red Baron in his last dogfight in World War I.
  • The High Level Bridge offers the best views of the city.
  • More than 30 species of mosquitoes live in the Edmonton area – and the problem mosquito is called vexans mosquito. Some summers can be miserable outdoors, especially at dusk.
  • The Canadian Birkebeiner ski festival takes place each year in February. Thousands of skiers from all over the world come to cross country ski 55 kilometers with a 5.5 kilogram pack on their back, reliving the legend of King Haakon Haakonson.
  • There’s lots of great food in Edmonton and ongoing efforts to eat and grow more locally. Some of the best restaurants according to Avenue Magazine are Sugarbowl, the Budapest Deli, Battista’s Calzones and Won Jung Gak. I’ve also heard good things about the Dutchess Bake Shop – and when I’m here in March I’ll personally investigate.

Do you have any more interesting facts about Edmonton or photos you’d like to share on this blog?

Leigh McAdam
HikeBikeTravel

Bellagio 014 26 Weird, Wonderful and Useful Facts About Edmonton

 

 

 

 

Photo credits: Waterfall, Bison, Mall, Winter

Posted by Hike Bike Travel | Filed Under Alberta, Canada | 5 Comments 

Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

January 24, 2012

Yesterday I wrote about what awaits you when you get to Skoki Lodge – but first you have to get there.

In the winter that means you need to cross country ski or snowshoe eleven kilometers in from Temple Lodge at the Lake Louise Ski Resort, accessed via a gondola ride up and a chairlift ride down. The other alternative is a 24 kilometer ski in via the Pipestone River but you need to be a strong skier to attempt that.

Skoki weekend 244 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Skiing towards Temple Mountain on the return

Skiing into Skoki Lodge is very popular – largely because the scenery is outstanding, the avalanche danger if you stick to the route is basically non-existent, and the level of difficulty is reasonable for many skiers.

Skoki Lodge is most commonly accessed via Boulder and Deception Passes. Boulder Pass is a snap, Deception Pass less so.

But let me get back to the route to Skoki Lodge.

First, don’t do what we did. We skied from the Ptarmigan Chairlift past Temple Lodge looking for the trail.

What you need to do is turn right as you’re looking straight on at Temple Lodge, and climb about 100 meters up the hill. Stay left as you climb the hill because the trail to Skoki heads left into the woods. It’s marked and has a sign with the usual back country warnings.

Not far from the start of the trail is an intersection. Stay right.

Climb gradually through the woods for the first two kilometers. The trail is marked with poles but there are no signs to Skoki except at the start. Obviously if it’s snowed you’re going to be breaking trail too. We were the first on the trail that day so that’s exactly what we did. And if it’s windy the tracks fill in quickly.

Eventually you break out into a large open meadow with gorgeous views if the day is clear. Take the time to look back – and not just forwards, because that’s where the best views are.

Skoki weekend 247 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Beautiful meadows

Skoki weekend 246 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Looking up towards Boulder Pass - in better weather than we had skiing in to the lodge

The map provided at check-in shows the Halfway Hut on the right side of the trail as you’re skiing in. But it’s not. You’ll see it on a small knoll above a creek on the left. It’s rustic but a good place to get out of the wind on a cold day.

Continue on up to Boulder Pass – obvious because of the large number of – you guessed it – boulders. At the top you may need to take your skis off if the ground has been stripped of snow.

Skoki weekend 002 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

The wind blown route to Boulder Pass (skiing in)

Skoki weekend 216 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Snow covered boulders at Boulder Pass (skiing out and looking towards Lake Louise)

From Boulder Pass, there’s no wind protection until you’re down in the trees on the other side of Deception Pass. You have to cross the lake and the wind can howl through here. On the day we skied in, visibility was poor. In a snowstorm you’d probably only be able to see one or two poles ahead, at a time.

Skoki weekend 210 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Looking up at Deception Pass

Skoki weekend 215 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Views from the lake

Once you’ve crossed the lake it’s time to start climbing. Its 180 meters (590 feet) up to Deception Pass, the high point of the route at 2510 meters (8235 feet). Lots of people skin up when they start climbing but we didn’t find that we needed skins on either pass.

The pass is straight forward when you can see. In whiteout conditions it wouldn’t be fun. As you near the top of the pass look for a marker to your left; the trail veers slightly left before heading straight and then dropping down.

If you like skiing down, then you’ll find the rest of the route to be fun and fast and it might take you only half an hour. But if you’re like Angela, who we met on our trip, the descent is where the tough skiing started. It could easily take you another 90 minutes if you aren’t a good downhill skier.

Skoki weekend 191 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

What the slopes look like just down from Deception Pass

Skoki weekend 189 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Looking down the valley in the direction of Skoki Lodge

From Deception Pass, follow the trail marked with large stakes. It continues across the slopes of Fossil Mountain and then angles left down into the trees. You should continue to see stakes and probably snowmobile tracks as you get closer. You will pass trails heading off to the right directing you to Red Deer Lakes. Ignore those signs and any other side trails. Continue to the lodge, located on the right bank of Skoki Creek beneath Skoki Mountain.

And you won’t see it until you’re a minute away. Some people were looking for smoke – but none will be visible.

But then all of a sudden – voila – and you’ve arrived.

Skoki weekend 053 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

Useful Information for Skiing to Skoki

  • Pack lightly but pack smart. You need clothes that wick the moisture away and you need a lot of layers. Include a coat with a hood and a neck warmer.
  • Bring skins and wax.
  • Don’t forget a spare ski tip and basket for your pole.
  • Duct tape always comes in handy.
  • Include a first aid kit with band aids and moleskin to help with blisters.
  • Your water will freeze so keep it buried in your pack. Think about bringing a thermos with something hot.
Skoki weekend 140 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Guess the vintage of my Dynastar skis - easy if you can remember when fluorescent orange was last in vogue

  • My skis are probably 15 years old – minimum. But they still work for me. There were all types of skis – from fancy, back country skis, to basic rental gear to my classic stuff.
  • Buy a topo map and bring it.
  • Include a headlamp AND extra batteries.
  • I think one shovel per group is a good idea.
  • Carry energy bars. Keep them close to your body if you don’t want to break a tooth.
  • Time required to ski one way will vary from three to six hours depending on your ability and the weather conditions. Plan accordingly.

For more information on what to expect at Skoki Lodge read this post.

Leigh McAdam
HikeBikeTravel

Bellagio 01410 Skiing to Skoki Lodge via Boulder and Deception Passes

Posted by Hike Bike Travel | Filed Under Alberta, Canada, Skiing/snowboarding/snowshoeing | 6 Comments 

A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

January 23, 2012

Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park was our destination last weekend.

But you don’t drive to Skoki. You ski or snowshoe the 11 kilometers in, starting at Temple Lodge at the Lake Louise Ski Resort. And in the summer you hike in – that is unless you’re Prince William and Kate, in which case you fly in.

Skoki weekend 027 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

Skoki Lodge at about 6:15 pm in mid-January

The trip in to Skoki Lodge begins with a visit to Guest Services at the bottom of the Lake Louise Ski Resort. Sign the waivers, get the parking pass – that allows you to park steps from the lodge, pick up a map and your lift tickets for the gondola and chairlift rides and you’re good to go.

Skoki weekend 252 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

The view of the Lake Louise area from the gondola

The gondola ride comes next. It takes 14 minutes and offers up spectacular views of the mountains on clear days. On snowy days it keeps you warm. Then you download onto the chairlift. Fortunately, they stop it so you can get securely settled in with packs and skis before continuing to the bottom.

After extricating yourself from the chairlift, ski to Temple Lodge, climb up the hill about 60 meters to the right of the lodge and look for the Skoki sign on the left. That is the official start of your 11 kilometer ski in.

Tomorrow’s blog will detail the route.

This is not an outing I would recommend for inexperienced skiers. It’s what I would call a moderately difficult trail, but challenges can occur with route finding in bad conditions, and more than a few people have trouble on the descent from Deception Pass to Skoki Lodge. In fact one woman at the lodge called it Deliverance Pass but I think she was referring to the climb up to it. (I would also bring a topo map with me on my next visit to help with route finding in bad conditions.)

Back to the lodge itself.

Assuming you’ve arrived in one piece, you’re most likely thirsty and hungry from the three to five hour ski in. The photo below is a sample of the mid afternoon tea that awaits your arrival. What it doesn’t show is the happy grins sported by the guests when they bite into the home baked goods. And you can’t hear the sighs of contentment as people sip hot soup, herbal teas or lemonade. And you don’t see the guests spread out around the wood stove in deep, comfortable chairs with a plateful of goodies in front of them.

But that all happens. 

Skoki weekend 024 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

The afternoon spread to tide you over until dinner

The actual accommodation is rustic.

But that should be expected considering the lodge opened to skiers in 1931.

There is no running water. That means there are no toilets. Instead you can count on a cold porcelain toilet seat in an outhouse behind the main lodge. There are two – one for woman and one for men.

Inside your room, whether it is the Honeymoon Cabin that we stayed in, the Riverside Cabin the Royals used or a room upstairs in the main lodge, you are going to need a headlamp to see what you’re doing – at any time of the day. It’s dark in the rooms – no lights because there isn’t any electricity, and the windows are small. But there are a couple of lanterns and there is a propane stove if you’re in a cabin to keep you cozy.

Skoki weekend 056 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

Our Honeymoon Cabin

Skoki weekend 052 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

The Wolverine Cabin

Skoki weekend 053 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

Fortunately there is warm water available for washing – you just have to do it the old fashioned way with a bowl and a sponge.

The Meals

Even if you ski four or five hours every day while you’re at Skoki Lodge, do not count on losing weight. Blame it on Katie and her sidekick, Vanessa. Katie has been looking after and cooking at Skoki Lodge for fourteen years now. In fact a cookbook is due out soon and I can see why. Everything she makes is delicious, and it’s all made from scratch in the small kitchen in the photograph below.

Skoki weekend 047 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

Katie and Vanessa - what a cooking team!

Let’s start with breakfast.

The coffee is on beginning at 6:30 am, though breakfast doesn’t begin till 8:30 as the sun comes up. Start with a choice of homemade granola or a hot cereal. Yesterday’s hot cereal was a rolled oat, flax seed, apricot combo that was as delicious as it was healthy. Or you can just have yogurt and fresh fruit salad. Then there’s the hot entree – some sort of eggy affair on mornings we were there, plus bacon and fresh baked scones and muffins.

Immediately after breakfast, a lunch buffet is put out. Make your own sandwiches on fresh, homemade bread. Throw in a few cookies – ginger, chocolate chip or a peanut butter – M&M mixture, add in carrot sticks and fruit and chances are that will be enough to hold you until the mid-afternoon spread. Return to photograph above.

Skoki weekend 042 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

Lanterns add a warmth to the lodge

Then there’s dinner.

It’s served at 7pm with the warm ambiance of candles and lanterns adding to the relaxed mood. There’s a board that shows the day’s menu, though all dietary restrictions are seemingly accommodated. One evening we had beef tenderloin, a sweet potato tart, baby roasted potatoes, oven roasted vegetables and a Caesar salad. Dessert was a fat piece of chocolate cake with melted Callebaut chocolate and a raspberry coulis. Wine was available by the bottle for $40 though some people brought their own in hydration packs.

Not only is Katie an amazing cook – so amazing that Prince William asked if she cooked on boats, but she is a lovely human being – full of warmth, vitality and eager to share her considerable knowledge of the area. I’d go back to Skoki again just because of her. Ryan and Vanessa, two of the other staff, were equally lovely and also happy to help in any way.

Skoki Lodge attracts the outdoorsy types so right off the bat there’s a commonality with other guests. Conversation is easy and you wonder why you can’t have the people you meet up here in your life at home. Last weekend there were guests from Banff, Calgary, Red Deer, Saskatoon and Whitehorse.  Up to twenty people can be accommodated – in a variety of sleeping arrangements.

Skoki Lodge Rates and Information

Skoki Lodge charges $139 to $244 per person per night in the winter. That includes everything but a gratuity and wine. When you book, you are sent a packing list. Follow it but don’t over-pack. It’s very casual around the lodge so you can leave the dress-up gear at home. The only thing I would add to their list is one shovel per group, as a just in case measure if something ever goes terribly wrong. A two night stay is ideal so you have the time to discover the beautiful country surrounding the lodge.

There’s lots of winter left and it’s possible to visit this year up until April 21st.

Now I’d like to visit Skoki Lodge in the summer.

Have you been to Skoki or any of the other ski lodges in the Rockies?

Leigh McAdam
HikeBikeTravel
Bellagio 0149 A Winter Visit to Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park

Posted by Hike Bike Travel | Filed Under Accommodation (Hotels, B&B's, Inns & Other), Alberta, Canada, Skiing/snowboarding/snowshoeing | 9 Comments 

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