Ask a local from Cape Breton what their favourite season is and invariably the answer is the fall. Temperatures are comfortable, people are few and far between and the spectacular Highlands National Park scenery is at its best once the leaves begin changing colour.

Here are nine ways to enjoy the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island this fall.

• Take a drive (or bike) through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. You will be rewarded with eye popping vistas.

Vistas on the west side of Cape Breton Highlands National Park

• Visit the Alexander Graham Bell Museum in Baddeck. The genius and inventiveness of Alexander Graham Bell is impossible to miss. Allow at least two hours to wander through the museum, watch videos, check out exhibits and appreciate how prolific his interests were. The entrance fee is $7.80 per adult.

• Take a whale watching tour out of Cheticamp, Pleasant Bay or Bay St. Lawrence. Most companies guarantee whale sightings though often it’s the Pilot whale you’ll see. There are frequent sightings too of Fin, Humpback and Minke whales as well as dolphins, seals, eagles, cormorants and guillemots. Most tours are 2 ½ t0 3 hours in length.

• Play a round of golf at the Highlands Golf Course in Ingonish. They say It’s golf as its meant to be played – in Scottish fashion – which I think means it rains a great deal. If it doesn’t rain its a beautiful course.

• Relax on one of the lovely beaches. There are long stretches of beach near Dingwall and the area around Blacks Brook Cove is rocky but very pretty and well worth exploring.

Beach near Neils Harbour

• Plan a stop at the Clucking Hen, a roadside cafe and bakery south of Cape Smokey on the north shore of St. Ann’s Bay. It opens at 7am so you can pick up coffee and warm cinnamon buns or stay and eat in on the screened porch. If its lunchtime and you’re in the vicinity, make a beeline for the chowder and lobster sandwiches – all reputed to be excellent. If you’re sick of nothing but fried food at dinner then plan to stop for some fresh fish or lobster stew, favourites on the dinner menu. The Clucking Hen is now listed in the 2010 edition of Where to Eat in Canada.

The Clucking Hen Cafe and Bakery

• The Margaree Valley is famous for fly fishing particularly in the fall when salmon season is in full swing. Atlantic salmon range anywhere in size from 15 -40 pounds. When they bite it’s supposed to be quite a thrill. Hire a guide and see for yourself.
• Pick up a map showing the galleries and workshops of the local crafts people. Cheticamp is truly famous for its hooked rugs which I inwardly sneered at until I saw them. Some are incredible works of art that I would be proud to display in my house. One interesting fellow – Joe McKinnon, who has a small shop just before the turnoff to the Margaree Valley, hand carves folk art. My husband honed in on the typical male piece which would be the perfect gift for the male in your family.

Folk art

• Learn the history of the Acadians at Les Centre de Trois Pignon in Cheticamp. The Societe Saint-Pierre operates the center;  they have been working since 1947  to preserve the language, songs and folklore of the Acadians in addition to keeping  genealogical records which turns out to be a major draw.

There’s even more to do than what I’ve suggested. I didn’t even touch on all the hiking and kayaking possibilities. Explore this great country on Labour day weekend and if you’re anywhere near Cape Breton try some of the suggested activities.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Note: Golf photo from www.golfclubatlas.com.

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

On our recent visit to the Magdalen Islands we spent a very enjoyable stretch of time walking the Havre Aubert beach and admiring the biggest sand castles I’ve ever seen. The annual Chateaux de sable des Iles is an event that will reach its 25th anniversary in 2011. This year 250 builders took part and over 10,000 visitors were wowed by the sand creations. Entry can be via one of three categories – family, corporate or free style. Competitors can take advantage of one of the sand castle building workshops in the weeks that lead up to the event. This sand castle competition is the biggest amateur event in the world. Mark your calendars to coincide with this fabulous community weekend next year - August 12-14th, 2011. It’s just another reason to vist the Magdalen Islands.

Check out some of the sand castles below. What’s your favourite?

Amazing detail on this sand castle

Fanciful whale castle

First place in the adult division

Major excavation work required for this castle

Sand castle attacked by an army

First prize in the family category

On the last day of the event you could actually get close to the castles.

Leigh McAdam
www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

The Magdalen Islands in Quebec are a photograher’s dream. Colourful houses, fantastic red rock cliffs, and a unique and interesting landscape combine to offer unlimited photographic possibilities.

Red rock cliffs of the Magdalen Islands

I was having great fun with colour, different angles and light until my camera got hit by a rogue wave while I was dozing on a beach. I didn’t lose the pictures but I did fry the electronics. I’m on my backup camera for the rest of the trip which doesn’t do quite the same job.

Houses are painted every colour of the rainbow – partially to brighten dreary winter days but also to serve as a marker for boats at sea.

Colourful Magdalen Island house

How about a purple house?

Or maybe green?

I like the pink and purple combination

Blue is good too.

If you are a real photographer then you can do justice to the landscape.

The Magdalen Islands in the morning light.

More Magdalen Island red rock cliffs

Time for some relaxation too.

The islands are famous for their food and in fact boast numerous restaurants in the book Where to Eat in Canada. If you enjoy food photography and restaurants with stunning views and colourful characters then you’ll find plenty of subject matter. I’ll leave you with a photo of one of Quebec’s specialties that I have yet to try.

Poutine for those not worried about their ticker.

 Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

It was love at first sight… of the Magdalen Islands. My first view of these magical islands from the deck of the ferry was of Île d’Entrée, a knobby landform of red cliffs with a smattering of houses on grassy sections. 

First View of the Magdalen Islands from the ferry

The Magdalen Islands are a string of six islands, linked by sand dunes, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  Accessed via a 5 hour ferry ride from Prince Edward Island or a flight from Montreal, Quebec City or Gaspe,  the islands remain largely unknown, even to Canadians. They are mostly French speaking though English is widely understood. The Magdalen Islands have a permanent population of 12,000 people, many of whom are Acadians or are descendents of shipwreck survivors. 

Proud Acadians

There are plenty of activities to keep everyone happy, especially ones involving wind sports or the beach. The wind blows constantly and there are over 300 kms of beautiful beaches – many of which you can claim for yourself. 

Kitesurfing on the Lagune du Havre aux Maisons

Windsurfing in Le Bassin

Exploring the red rock

The Magdalen Islands offer more than wind and beaches. Bike part of Quebec’s Green Route from Îles du Havre aux Maisons all the way out to Îles de la Grand Entrée, about 60 kms away. Explore sea caves by kayak or don a wet suit and swim in the caves. Visit artist’s studios, especially the Artisans de Sable (art made of sand).Try one of the local brews, with alcohol levels up to 9%! Dine incredibly well. Stay at a converted convent. Enjoy the hospitality provide by the Madelinots.

Red cliffs of the Magdalen Islands

Magdalen Island homes

Boating on one of the bays

Definitely plan a visit to the magical Magdalen Islands.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

Organizing a redneck party in this age of political correctness isn’t for everybody. Last night we had a preview of what’s in store for the friends and families of a wonderful couple (Bernie & Beryl) who have a terrific sense of humour and have spent many an hour putting together what will probably be THE social event in PEI this summer. CBC has even threathened to show up. The party is all for a good cause too.  

Here’s what you need to host your own Redneck Party 

• Acreage. Your average city lot isn’t going to cut it
• Guests are encouraged to arrive via a riding lawn mower or tractor.

A riding lawn mower – maybe you can rent one!

• Games are always a big hit , especially if they involve slingshots and rocks. The goal is to hit the redneck beer can – on either side of the center can. If you hit any other can or the Tropicana juice then get your wallet out because you’re making a donation to Watercan.

Slingshot targets

• A homemade potato gun will be offered for use to burst ballons. For every ballon you burst a donation will be requested. The potato gun was designed by Bernie for roughly $24. To fashion your own you will need some sewer type pipe, a few fittings, a BBQ starter, some hairspray like Finesse and an ample supply of potatoes.

A Potato Gun

Tap the potatoes into the pipe like an old musket, spray with hairspray, seal the chamber, press  the BBQ starter button and voila - a huge bang and a potato missile. If you don’t live in PEI, then you probably won’t have cheap potatoes around.  Substitute any medium to large sized round vegetable in season. 

Shooting a potato gun

• Roll out the big screen once darkness sets in and stay tuned for Deliverance. To make your own screen attach a giant tarp to wooden slats and paint it white.

I can’t help but think that everyone who attends this Redneck Party will spend much of the night laughing and helping a good cause. We had so much fun at the preview I wish we were around for the real deal. 

Leigh McAdam 

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

Frank and Sue over at Our Hiking Blog in Australia have been busy working on a cookbook geared to people who love the outdoors – whether it be backpackers, rafters, kayakers, campers…The new 200 page ebook named Food to Go is due for release on August 15th. One recipe that caught my attention was the Australian version of GORP – good old raisins and peanuts. Australians call it Scoggin. I call it candy with nuts but it sure looks good and will definately keep the kids in your group happy.

Here’s the GORP aka Scroggin Recipe

 (*reprinted with permission*)

We always like variety in our scroggin while others just keep it simple and take one or two favourite treats. It is up to you!

We generally carry 100 – 130 grams (3-4 oz) of scroggin per person for each day.

The process:

• We calculate how many days we will be away. For 4 nights/5 days, we would take 4 bags each (eating half a bag the first and last day)
• If each bag is 125 grams, that is 500 grams (1.1 lbs) per person
• If there are two in your party you need a total of 1kg (2.2lbs) of junk (sorry, ahem, energy) 
• At the supermarket / lolly shop/ sweet store/ health food shop, just add up the net weight of the packets until you reach your “target weight”.

You can try: 

• Liquorice Allsorts cut into quarters
• Liquorice twists or straps cut into 2-3 cm (1″) lengths
• Jelly beans
• Snakes – cut up
• Jelly babies
• Dried fruit such as apricot, pear, sultanas, raisins, currents etc
• Chocos
• Liquorice chocolate coated bullets
• Yogurt balls
• M&M’s
• Smarties
• Nuts – peanuts (we use unsalted or EVERYTHING gets salty), cashews, almonds etc BUT nothing with shells

Take it home, cut up any bulky or long items into smaller pieces (clean scissors work well) and mix it in a huge bowl. Once this is all mixed well (and sampled judiciously) weigh and place in into a snack size zip loc bag- 1 bag per person per day.  We find it easier to bag for each day to ration it out over the whole trip. Weigh them out for your daily ration.

A 100 g bag of Scroggin

Our choices are not necessarily healthy but they provide fast energy and can be something to look forward to once you hump that pack over the next hill.

Use your imagination and enjoy the flavour explosions of the Australian version of GORP. And preorder Frank & Sue’s cookbook for a 20% savings.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

On the first day of the West Highland Way it’s well worth walking an extra half mile to take advantage of the distillery tour offered at Glengoyne Distillery. Even if you don’t like scotch (and I don’t) it’s fun and educational. The Scottish lasses will have you smiling and chuckling in no time.

Glengoyne Distillery - Day 1 on the West Highland Way

The basic £6.50 tour takes you through the process of making whiskey and includes one tasting. After watching a film and knocking back a wee dram your well spoken guide will take you through the various buildings and explain the purpose of each. Finish in the shop where there’s an excellent selection of backpacker sized bottles to choose from.

Glengoyne guide explaining the malting process

Glengoyne Distillery has been making whiskey for around 200 years with the three basic ingredients that go into making every bottle of scotch – water, yeast and barley.

Barley is first soaked in water.  This step releases enzymes which convert the stored starch in the barley into sugar. The damp barley is then spread out on the floor of the malthouse to dry.  At the Glengoyne Distillery the barley is air dried. Many Scottish distilleries use the smoke from peat fires to dry the barley with the obvious smoky flavour a result. After the malted barley is dried, it’s ground to form grist and then mixed with water (“crystal clear soft water off Dumgoyne Hill”) in a mash tun, a large vat with rotating paddles. The resulting liquid is called wort.

Scotch whiskey still

The wort is then put into large fermenting vats called wash-backs. At Glengoyne the wash-back is made with Oregon pine. At this stage the yeast is added and the malt sugars are converted into alcohol during the 40-50 hour fermentation process. The resulting product,called wash  is ready for the next step – distillation using a pot still. Two distillations take place (versus three for Irish whiskey because “they can’t get it right after two times” – though spoken in jest!) The distillation process at Glengoyne is slower than at other distilleries – supposedly for producing a smoother taste though I’m certainly not qualified to judge.

The last step is maturation in oak casks. Glengoyne uses American and Spanish oak casks, some of which are seasoned with sherry first. Ten years is the minimum amount of time that the whiskey is aged. The final product at the Glengoyne Distillery is a fresher, lighter product compared to the smoky, peaty whiskies of Islay.

Factors Affecting Style of a Malt Whiskey

The difference in flavour profiles for scotch comes down to the following factors:

• the barley, especially the malting
• the yeast
• the water
• the design and height of the head of the still
• the maturation process.

Glengoyne Distillery Shop

One couple we met had a double tasting of scotch and found the last half of the day on the West Highland Way floated by quite nicely.

Don’t miss the distillery tour – consider it part of your cultural education.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

A few years ago I crossed the Zambezi River above Victoria Falls between Zambia and Botswana. My trip was via a private boat and lasted all of about 10 minutes. The other option is the Kazungula Ferry.

Kazungula Ferry

The ferry operates between Kazungula, Zambia and Kasane, Botswana. It’s all of 400 meters across the Zambezi River. The ferry plays an important role as part of Africa’s  north-south transportation corridor. Now look again at the picture and notice the ONE truck on the ferry. Therein lies the problem. The wait time for a truck going in either direction is ONE WEEK. No reservations are taken. Truckers know they just have to show up, get in line, kill time, play cards and socialize for the week.

There is an alternative road through Zimbabwe. It’s much faster but unfortunately it’s not a particularly safe road;  huge numbers of truckers elect to wait out the week for the Kazungula ferry. A bridge across the Zambezi River was announced in 2007. Yesterday’s Globe and Mail spoke of the lack of trade between African countries and the need for improvements to aid the flow of goods, particularly between Cairo and Capetown. Certainly a bridge providing timely and safe travel between Zambia and Botswana would go a long way to making that happen.

Zimbabwe (on the left of wires) - Botswana (on the right of wires) Border

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

The Sea to Sky Highway, aka Highway 99, is an incredibly scenic, cliff hugging road that takes you from West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay to Whistler, home of the 2010 winter Olympics. After three plus years of highway improvements including the addition of lanes and wider shoulders, bikers can now cycle this road with some degree of safety all the way through to Whistler. Before the improvements it was unthinkable – in fact it was a death defying feat. You still need to exercise caution and don’t try cycling it on a busy holiday weekend.

View to Anvil Island from Porteau Cove

There are a number of small communities to explore as you head north to Whistler from Horseshoe Bay. Lions Bay is the first community you encounter, only 12 kms away. Look for a cafe serving excellent smoothies and check out the gallery featuring local artists. Next discover Porteau Cove, 13 kms north. It’s a small provincial park, popular with weekend campers. Excellent views across to Anvil Island and nice beaches beckon you to stop and picnic.

View of the Sea to Sky Highway looking south from the top of the Chief in Squamish

Exercise extreme caution as you leave Porteau Cove on your bike. The next kilometer boasts a narrow shoulder and it’s not where you want to be if a bus goes by. The Furry Creek Golf Course soon appears on your right. It has an enviable location but I have never seen a human being around.

Brittannia Beach is the next stop, 8.5  kms away. Part of that distance is up a monster hill – and down it. Just before the town look for the Galileo Coffee Shop. It’s here I saw offered for the first time ever a Canadiano – an  Americano coffee with maple syrup. Brittania Beach is a small community of 300. It owes its origins to a copper discovery. By the early 1900′s the Britannia Mine had opened and in 1929  it was the largest producer of copper in the British Commonwealth. Underground tours are available seven days a week and you can even pan for gold.

Nine kilometers after Brittania Beach, Shannon Falls appears. It’s the third highest waterfall in British Columbia and an especially impressive sight after a storm. The big hunk of granite known as Stawamus Chief is next. It’s an internationally famous slab of rock to climb.  Hikers also get a great workout hiking one of the trails to the top of the Chief’s three summits. The first peak is the shortest route.

It’s only a short 3-4 kilometers to reach Squamish from The Chief but unfortunately this section of road is a challenge for cyclists. The wide shoulder disappears and doesn’t reappear until you get through the town. Exercise extreme caution is you elect to continue through here. Squamish bills itself as the Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada.

It’s another 59 kms to reach Whistler from Squamish. Along the way there are many opportunities to hike and even swim in the summer. Alice Lake is a very popular destination as is Brandywine Falls, 34 kms north of Squamish. Stunning views of the Tantalus Range greet you as you get closer to Whistler. There are a number of pullouts along the highway so you can fully appreciate the view.

It’s a total of 85 kms from Horseshoe Bay to Whistler. I don’t know what the elevation gain is but I do know it’s up there – somewhere around 5500 feet. Go prepared – with food, water and some warmer clothes. If you’re driving count on 75 minutes from Horseshoe Bay to Whistler without stops.

As an aside, the first ever Gran Fondo cycling event will be held in September beginning  in Stanley Park and ending in Whistler – a distance of 120 kms with approximately 7000 feet of elevation gain. One highway lane will be closed for the event. I have started training!

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon

I’m off to Great Britain tomorrow with a girlfriend to hike the 70 mile Cumbria Way which bisects the Lake District in England and the 95 mile West Highland Way in western Scotland. I’m a bit smarter than last year when I hiked the Dingle Way and the Kerry Way in Ireland with a fully loaded backpack. This time I’ve organized a baggage service to move my big backpack every night at a cost of £ 7 per bag. I’ll carry a daypack and that’s it.

Here’s a full list of what I’m bringing.

Backpack (Osprey) + a Daypack (Mountain Equipment Co-op)

• One large backpack
• A daypack (will bring as carryon)
• An oversized bag that holds a wallet, book and electronics (carryon)

Footwear

• Broken in leather hiking boots (consider orthotics too)
• Lightweight trail shoe (with extra laces)
• Chaco scandals

I am not taking any good shoes.

Clothing

• 5-6 pairs of underwear
• Sleeping attire
• 2 liner socks and 2 hiking socks ***I hike as much as I can in my Chacos despite the looks I get! You may want more socks.
• 1 pair of jeans
• 1 pair quick dry long pants that zip into shorts
• 1 pair capris
• 1 pair stretchy type capris – Lululemon in Canada (they may get tossed at the last minute)
• 1 down vest that stuffs into nothing

Cold weather clothing

• 1 windproof fleece
• 4 hiking t-shirts (I bring old ones I can pitch after a number of days)
• Arm warmers – buy at a biking store – HIGHLY RECOMMEND – no need for long sleeve tshirts then. You could also bring leg warmers.

Arm warmers.. buy at a bike shop

• 1 dressier shirt
• 1 scarf
• 1 dressier sweater
• 2-3 tshirts for the evening
• Rain pants, rain jacket
• Ball cap
• Warm hat, gloves
• Bandana
• Bathing suit – am I dreaming? Perhaps it won’t come.

Electronics

Electronics minus Iphone, Ipod, cords and battery charger!

• Dell Notebook computer that weighs under 2 pounds + plugs
• Memory stick
• Panasonic Optio W20 – waterproof camera as a backup
• Panasonic SDR-Sw21 Video Recorder + battery charger
• Lumix G1 with 2 lenses + battery charger
• Garmin Forerunner 305 + battery charger (for measuring distance)
• Plug adaptor for Great Britain
• Downloading cables
• Ipod
• Iphone – I don’t have one but my friend is bringing hers.

Miscellaneous

• The 10 essentials
• Rain cover for daypack
• Reading material – 5 books in my case. I tried to bring fewer but two will be read just on planes.

• Journal, maps, pens, markers
• 2 water bottles (you could bring flavoured crystals of some sort ) ; I’m not bringing a water purifier for Britain.
• 15 energy bars – one per day and one extra. These are hard to find overseas plus they’re much cheaper to buy at home. Buy a variety and taste them before you leave.

Assorted Energy Bars

• Expandable clothes line + a small container of soap
• Whistle
• Binoculars and bird book
• Eye shade – for the plane
• 2 pairs of reading glasses ($Cdn60 in London’s Heathrow last year for 1 pair!)
• Sunglasses
• Half gaiters
• Sunscreen + lip balm (may not even pull it out judging by the weather forecast)
• Toilet paper + kleenex
• Extra ziploc bags in different sizes
• Dirty laundry bag
• Tripod (maybe – because it’s small)
• Cloth for cleaning camera lenses
• Collapsible hiking poles (optional)
• Carabiner for the outside of a pack; it has all sorts of useful purposes including holding scandals
• Passport, credit cards, ATM card, driver’s license, insurance papers, cash (some in smaller notes if possible). Leave unnecessary cards at home.

First Aid Kit

It’s not very big but it’s got enough if we get into trouble.

Small First Aid Kit

• Assorted blister aids – bandaids, moleskin, tape
• Gauze and dressings
• Antibiotic cream like Neosporin
• Triangular bandage
• Sam splint
• Ace bandage and safety pins
• Advil, Benadryl
• Hand cleaner
• Emergency blanket ( the ones that weigh 1 ounce that reflect your body heat)

Toiletries

What I’m bringing and what my friend is bringing is quite different. She has 4 types of cream alone - eye, face, body, sunscreen. I might just mooch. Don’t forget the following:

Toiletry Bag with Epsom Salts!

• Toothbrush and toothpaste
• Small mirror
• Contacts, glasses and eye solution
• Earplugs – I’ve been warned by her husband
• Makeup – depending on who you are
• Small shampoo and conditioner bottles
• Deodorant
• Razor
• Hairbrush (so obvious I usually forget it)
• Tweezers, scissors, nail clippers, Q-tips
• Prescriptions and/or vitamins

This list looks incredibly long but in fact I have chosen clothes that stuff into nothing and lightweight fabrics whenever possible. This trip is no beauty contest. If we do any fine dining it will be in jeans and scandals. Certainly no one needs all the electronics I’m bringing but I plan to write blogs every few days. Once I start loading my bags I may fine tune just a touch.

I don’t like Scotch but for those of you who would enjoy a wee dram add a flask to your list.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Bookmark to: Stumble Upon