9 Surprisingly Great Things to do in the Calgary Area

March 30, 2010

The city of Calgary has never been a destination in my mind. To me it’s been a place to fly in to and get the hell out of as fast as you can. I have however been pleasantly surprised at its offerings. There are the usual sites on Tourism Calgary’s website- museums, heritage streets, heritage parks… but that’s not what I’m looking for. Here is my list of 9 Surprisingly Great Things To Do.

  1. Bring, borrow or rent a bike because this city has a truly amazing network of trails. You can head south all the way to Fish Creek Provincial Park, head east past the zoo to the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary, head west along the Bow River to Bowness Park or head north and explore the trails of  Nose Hill Park. In total there are 550 kms of pathways and 260 kms of on street bikeways.
  2. Go to the zoo – it’s rated the third best in North America.
  3. Head for the Canada Olympic Park. Here you can ski, try a bobsleigh or luge ride and mountain bike in the summer. There are half pipes, terrain parks and challenge courses to further thrill you.
  4. Try speed skating at the Calgary Olympic Oval. It has two international sized rinks and an oval for long track speed skating where the public is welcome. You can rent the necessary equipment.
  5. Fish Creek Provincial Park at the south end of Calgary is one of the largest urban wilderness areas in the world. Enjoy over 85 kms of biking, running and hiking trails.
  6. About an hour away is the Canmore Nordic Center Provincial Park, developed for the 1988 Winter Olympics. Now it is a world class destination for athletes but fully accessible to the public. Depending on the season, plan on cross country skiing on more than 65 kms of trails or mountain biking on over 100 kms of  trails.
  7. In the heart of the Canadian Badlands, 90 minutes northeast of Calgary, you’ll find the Royal Tyrrell Museum. It boasts the largest display of dinosaur skeletons anywhere in the world. Take a walk through the badlands, experience a dig and marvel at the dinosaur skeletons.
  8. If you have extra time than a trip to the World Heritage Site – Head-Smashed-In-Buffalo-Jump, two hours south, should be on your agenda. The interpretative center explains the lifestyle, technology, ecology and mythology of the Blackfoot people based on archaeological evidence. Learn about the 60 million buffalo that once roamed the Great Plains.
  9. Of course a visit to Banff National Park , 90 minutes west of Calgary, is a must. Canada’s first national park offers up breathtaking scenery. You could spend weeks here exploring the back country.

Calgary is not just about cowboys and oil companies. It dishes up more culture than expected  with over 60 theater companies calling the city home.  I’m told that over 260 birds have visited the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary and that there is a vibrant horticultural society. Restaurants and shopping are world class. There are public and private art galleries galore …so the city is slowly shaking off its Cowtown only image.

Come and visit. You will be surprised.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

1000 Kilometers – Tips on Driving the Road from Vancouver to Calgary

March 29, 2010

It’s mid afternoon as I leave Vancouver and head east to Calgary. I have a solid 10 hours of driving on a combination of two and four lane highways, and that’s if the mountain passes cooperate. That’s the equivalent of driving from London, England through France and Switzerland to the outskirts of northern Rome in Italy, yet in Canada the drive represents only 15% of the distance across the country.

4526888274 827064a0de 1000 Kilometers   Tips on Driving the Road from Vancouver to Calgary

It’s a struggle for the first hour to get the speedometer consistently above 70km/hour. Once past Abbotsford it’s clear sailing. The road takes me through the fertile Fraser Valley past Chilliwack, famous for its corn in the summer and into Hope. Hope is surrounded by mountains and notorious for trapping any passing precipitation. I find it to be a depressing place and can’t get out of there fast enough.

My chosen route from Hope is the most direct of the three options. I’m heading east on the Trans Canada Highway through Revelstoke. I could head north and then east from Kamloops and drive the famous Icefields Parkway between Jasper and Banff, or alternatively I could head south and east from Hope and travel through the wine country of the Okanagan. I chose the fastest route. The northern route would add 2 1/2 hours and the southern route would add 3 hours.

From Hope I head up the Coquihalla Highway. It has the well earned reputation of being a treacherous highway in winter conditions – which unfortunately can occur anytime between September and April. Today I was lucky. The temperature at the pass was O C, 13 degrees lower than my home in Vancouver, and it was snowing lightly, but not accumulating. Once over the pass I breathe a sigh of relief. Only one more pass to go.

2360094176 6c18b4b940 1000 Kilometers   Tips on Driving the Road from Vancouver to Calgary

The miles fly by until I hit two lanes only out of Kamloops. I had naively expected four lanes through to Calgary. It is surprisingly scenic east of Kamloops especially as you near Salmon Arm. Pretty views of Shuswap Lake greet you for the better part of an hour. Shuswap Lake is British Columbia’s answer to Arizona’s Lake Powell, a house boaters paradise.

If you’re somebody who likes to break a drive into manageable chunks then Salmon Arm would be a good place to stop. It’s scenic and has loads of accommodation options. It’s also the halfway point. Other alternatives for a night are Revelstoke, an hour away or Golden 2 1/2 hours away, both of which entail non stop mountain driving.

Continuing east takes you back into the mountains and into unpredictable weather. Revelstoke is the next town, famous for it’s steep skiing.  It’s also famous for trapping people for days at a time when the highways in and out get hit by avalanches. You’ve been warned.

Crossing Rogers Pass was a breeze on Friday and in less than an hour I was in Golden. The time change from Pacific to Mountain happens at the top of Roger’s Pass so by the time you reach Golden you’ll need to  move your clock ahead an hour.

It’s 3 hours from Golden to Calgary and two of those hours are on beautiful highways through Yoho and Banff National Park. Pass into Alberta just past the town of Field. At the first gas station you’ll notice an immediate decrease in gas prices and you might save as much as $0.16/liter.

Trailheads for hiking and crosscountry skiing can be accessed at points along the highway through Yoho and Banff National Parks. Some of the world’s best and most scenic trails are off of these trailheads. Yoho National Park is much quieter than Banff but offers the same inspiring scenery.

3910425461 96e4ecacc5 1000 Kilometers   Tips on Driving the Road from Vancouver to Calgary

Continue past turnoffs for Lake Louise, Banff and finally Canmore, the largest town before Calgary. It’s not long past Canmore that the burbs of Calgary come into view. They’ve been expanding at an alarming rate but that’s another story.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Traveling – 8 Tips for Leaving Fluffy & Fido Behind

March 26, 2010

Who amongst us who loves to travel but owns a pet hasn’t felt awful as they stepped out the front door….mournful eyes following your every move? Kids are one thing – you’re usually happy to have a break from them but your faithful dog or indifferent cat is another issue altogether.

My Fido

Our Fido

I’m trading houses with a friend today and heading to Calgary but leaving my dog behind. Understandably my friend would like not to be tied down so what to do with the proverbial Fido.
There are lots of options for your ‘best friend’.

Here are some things that have worked for me over the years.
• Get to know your neighbours. In every house, in every city we have ever lived in, our neighbours are our first choice. The likelihood of your pet causing significant damage to your home or furniture will determine if this is an option for you. If it’s only short term travel of one to four nights then two walks and visits per day for our dog does the trick. I know that’s not ideal but it beats joining the howling dogs in a kennel. Pay the neighbour kid a reasonable sum and the dog should get some decent care.
Sleepovers for pets. Drop your animal and all their accoutrements off at your neighbours as well as chocolate, wine, flowers and anything else that might keep the neighbours happy while you’re on the road. That way Fido and Fluffy have some company. We are particularly lucky as our 80 year old neighbour has taken a shine to our dog and its actually opened his world. Dogs are chick magnets even at 80!
Hire a pet service. These people will do the same thing your neighbours do but for a fee. Daily rates are all over the map, depending on how many and how long the walks are, how many animals you have and if the pet sitter is sleeping over. Budget a minimum of $35 per day.
Daycare for the urban dog Daycare centers for dogs are sprouting up all over the place. This is great if your dog is sociable. Some will also have the option of a sleepover with paid dog sitters. Great if Fido can come to terms with sleeping on the floor. Prices are $35 per day and up.
Half and half On longer driving trips we have brought the dog/cat/bunny with us but then put them in a kennel in the place we’re visiting. It’s not ideal either, but at least they aren’t in the kennel the entire time.
Kids and Parents If you’re twenty something and planning a RTW trip chances are you’re dropping your dog off at dear old mom and dad’s place. They’re going to return the favour some day.
Housecarers.com Trade your house for a specified period of time for free house and pet sitting. Get references and screen applicants. I have used it three times with great success. Even better is the fact that the service is growing worldwide.
Kennels The dreaded kennel is sometimes the only option. And they aren’t all bad by any means but do your research. Perhaps leave your pet for a short visit first before committing to a longer stay to see how they fare.

Happy guilt free traveling.

PS. Anyone want to pet/house sit for 3 weeks in Vancouver in August 2010 – seriously!

Travel Blogs – Highlights of the Week

March 25, 2010

Check out this week’s links to worthwhile reads from travel blogs around the world.

and for the slightly offbeat check out Mini Paris - built over 2 decades.

Geocaching: Another Reason to Travel by guest blogger, James Ridge

March 24, 2010

GPS

GPS

I hesitate a bit before telling people that my wife and I are geocachers. The simple explanation of geocaching, (using a GPS to find hidden stashes of worthless trinkets), does not sound like a suitable hobby for anyone over 14. I was 14 in 1972, the year Jim Morrison died, and I can attest that geocaching is a ridiculous amount of fun at any age, especially if travel is an important part of your life.Yes it is a kind of treasure hunt, but it’s one you can take part in close to home or in Mumbai. There are now slightly over one million geocaches, all hidden in publicly accessible places. The caches themselves range in size from very small (a film canister for those of you who remember such things) to large sealable boxes. Most that we have found are sandwich box size. Some are hidden in remote places, others in urban parks, a few deep in the wilderness, but the vast majority are easily accessible. Typically they contain a log-book for finders to sign, some dollar-store trinkets for the kids, and perhaps other goodies. Newly placed goecaches usually have something special for the first person to find it.

Geocaches are created and hidden by other geocachers who, using their GPS, record the latitude and longitude of their cache and log it on the Geocache website. This website allows you to search for geocaches any number of ways, the most handy being a map view. From map view you simply connect your GPS, click on the geocaches you want to hunt for, and the details are transferred to your GPS. Then off you go. You can have many hours of fun looking for caches. Your GPS will normally get you within a dozen meters or so, but then your powers of observation and problem solving kick in. Sometimes it means poking in holes with sticks or crawling under things with flashlights. Each cache has a unique name, and many of the names are themselves clues. For those who need more help, you can often download more clues or outright spoilers.

Each geocache is rated by accessibility, family friendliness, difficulty to find, and whether your dog can come along. Trust me, your dog will want to come along. When you find a cache you return to the website, log your find, and it is customary to log a note thanking the creator of the cache. The website keeps a list of your found and unfound caches and allows you to check out how others are doing. Feel free to visit us on Geocaching.com at our spectacularly unimaginative user name ‘ridges2′

There are hundreds of thousands of Geocaches in Europe and Asia and a growing number in Africa, including one in central Tripoli. There are even half a dozen hidden on Easter Island. My wife and I found one a hundred meters from the Eiffel Tower, and another tucked in the wall of a castle on the shores of Lake Geneva. We found yet another behind a Paris tomb close to the grave of, as it happens, Jim Morrison. I’ve tracked them down near the Imperial Palace in Tokyo and another in a quiet laneway shrine in Kyoto. And I’m going to Mumbai next month and will be hunting for some there. Geocaching when you travel is wonderful fun and often gets you to spots you wouldn’t otherwise see. Even if you don’t make it a formal part of a trip, just load a few dozen on your GPS and check now and then to see if you are close to one. It is wise to keep in mind that in some parts of the world poking about secretively in odd places with a flashlight might attract unwelcome attention. The map shows a number of geocaches relatively close to the North Korean border. I personally would not go poking around after dark for those. However I expect you’ll be fine on Easter Island.

Hiding geocaches can be an art. They must be sufficiently hidden that the cache won’t be found by somebody who is just passing by, but can be found by somebody who is actively looking for it. Many are simply hidden in hollow logs or other nooks and crannies. Others are cleverly hidden in plain view or camouflaged, often very cleverly. In the woods near our home in North Vancouver there is a cache hidden in a carefully converted stump. The cache owner took a small birch stump, sawed off the top, hollowed out the interior, and hinged the top back on as a lid and glued on lichen and moss. The cache is inside the stump, which sits feet from a busy trail, unnoticed by the vast majority of passersbys. It took my wife and me several minutes of standing and observing to notice the very slight saw line revealing the lid of the stump. Other caches are under (or in) fake rocks and others still are cleverly attached to the underside of park benches with magnets.

Obviously this is a hobby with great appeal to families with kids, but many of the most fanatic geocachers are adults. We recently ran into a retiree who has made geocaching his life and has found over 5,000 all over the world. Incredibly fit, he spends a portion of most days hiking about searching for new geocaches including hikes deep into the local mountains. There are certainly worse pastimes to fill one’s retirement. Golf jumps to mind.

Geocache under rock

Geocache under rock

So why not give it a try. All you need is a handheld GPS, which are now very affordable. Many have features specifically for geocaching. If you have an iPhone you can get started just by downloading a $20 app. With the iPhone app you don’t even need to connect to a computer to download the cache locations, nearby caches are pushed to your phone. Once you get hooked, and you will, you can get deeper into the hobby by finding and creating trackable items, objects moved from cache to cache with unique identifiers so you can follow their progress around the world.

We took one such trackable a small plastic skeleton called Mr. Body (look it up on Geocaching.com) and left it in Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, behind that tomb. And if you go looking for that geocache….say hello to Jim.

Blog kindly written by James Ridge, the Registrar at the University of British Columbia – who has many interests and talents including travel, photography and cooking.

Donkeys for Rent – How we Hiked the Cordillera Blanca in Peru

March 23, 2010

The heart stopping road to Vaqueria
The heart stopping road to Vaqueria

Hiking the Cordillera Blanca on your own is quite doable…if you speak a little Quechua or Spanish. Fortunately in our party of three, one did.

Prior to our arrival in Peru we had done some research with the help of the South America Explorers Club. They provided route info and maps. We ended up bringing 95% of what we needed with us including the following:

  • almost all of our food plus enough for a guide with a hollow leg
  • an extra tent for the guide we figured we’d find once we got there (we did)
  • a stove that could take any type of fuel
  • warm clothes for freezing nights
  • a first aid kit with assorted drugs for altitude, infections…

Hikers make their way to Huarez, about a 4 hour drive north of Lima, to coordinate the next leg of the trip.  Huarez is a good sized city with banks, markets and little hole in the wall stores that sell everything else you could need. It’s also the staging area for nearby hikes and climbs so shuttles are easily organized.

We left Huarez with the promise that guides would miraculously appear at the trailhead. And they did – within seconds of being dumped in what is just a dot on a map in the middle of nowhere. It felt like a miracle to us.

The beginning of the trek - with Perferio our donkey driver/guide and 2 donkeys

The beginning of the trek - with Perferio our donkey driver/guide and 2 donkeys

Nothing is straight forward when you don’t have the full grasp of the language but somehow my husband managed to communicate where we wanted to go and only one guide out of the lot actually knew our proposed route and was willing to take us on. A little bartering, and did we want one donkey or two and what about a horse??  Two donkeys, 1 guide, and an agreed upon rate of $4o per day and we were good to go. We passed on the horse.

The next 12 or so days were spent hiking with only a day pack under sunny and dazzlingly blue skies. It was dry season in July and definitely the time to be there.

The Cordillera Blanca is a range of memorable mountains. The area is pristine (or at least it was), very lightly traveled, remote feeling and utterly gorgeous. Picture deep indigo blue lakes, turquoise lakes, tall grasses and rugged snow covered peaks.

Curious kids all sporting the same hat!

Curious kids all sporting the same hat!

In total we climbed up and down 7 mountain passes and for days on end we were well above 12,000 feet. Our highest point reached was 15,200 feet and there were many nights when we’d all wake up with racing heartbeats and shortness of breath.

It’s usually the hardship and disasters one remembers on a trip; we had neither but nights were often in the 10F range so there wasn’t alot of sitting around after dinner. Perferio, our guide had just brought donkey blankets for sleeping which didn’t seem like much under the circumstances. The first night was the coldest so we handed him a  pair of North Face fleece pants, showed him how to set up a tent, fed him something quite out of his normal range of diet and gave him Advil that he ended up hoarding for his wife; we ended up with one very agreeable and happy guide. 

In the last few days we ran into westerners and we all felt like our space had been invaded.  Although the last days of hiking were pleasant, they in no way compared to the great adventure we’d had up until then.

There are lots of tour companies that will take you into the Cordillera Blanca but this adventure was a standout, particularly because we had organized and executed it ourselves.

If you go put considerable effort into your preparations – especially since there is no quick and easy way out of the area if there’s a mishap. In fact I had taken an indepth wilderness first aid course which would have helped the other two….

Happy trekking.

Short doorways for short people in Peru.
Short doorways for short people in Peru.

The 10 Essentials for Outdoor Adventures

March 21, 2010

Let me tell you a true story that never made the headlines. This happened 30+ years ago near La Ronge in northern Saskatchewan at a bush camp close to where my husband worked.  There was a young woman who was the cook in camp. She sometimes had time on her hands and wanted to be doing more than just the cooking. One beautiful, unseasonably warm, sunny day in January she was finally given her chance and was told to do a traverse and hook up to a known point. Unfortunately miles into the traverse a blizzard literally blew up out of nowhere; she was poorly dressed and woefully unprepared.  Nevertheless she continued walking for close to 20 miles looking for a known road (while actually paralleling the nearby road) until she succumbed to the cold. They found her frozen in a sitting position with a compass in her hand. Had she carried the 10 essentials, chances are she would be about 55 years old today.

The 10 Essentials

The 10 Essentials

Emergencies can occur in any weather to anybody anywhere in the world.  So, if you’re heading outdoors into any sort of wilderness situation then packing the following 10 essentials could save your life or at the very least make an emergency situation more comfortable.

Include in your backpack:

  1. Map – A GPS does not replace a map. Not only should you have a map but you should know how to read it. The batteries in your GPS can die; I was also once in a situation of extreme cold where the GPS didn’t work.
  2. Compass – know how to use it; this may sound like an antiquated piece of equipment in the digital age but it always works (OK – not always – it doesn’t work if you are around strongly magnetic rocks or in the vicinity of the magnetic north or south pole)
  3. Flashlight and headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries
  4. Extra food  – an extra day’s worth of food is ideal for warmth and strength
  5. Extra clothing – this can keep you or an injured partner warm and help prevent shock
  6. Sunglasses
  7. First aid kit - everyone in your party should have a kit;  buy a readymade one or construct your own
  8. Swiss army style or similar pocket knife
  9. Matches in a waterproof container (I always take a few lighters as a backup)
  10. Fire starter such as a candle or paste you can buy in a camping store

Although those are the 10 essentials there are a few light weight additions that I believe are worthwhile.

  • extra water plus a filter or drops for purifying
  • sunscreen
  • duct tape – it can repair a lot of gear
  • cell phone though DO NOT RELY on it
  • bivy sack or at the very least a green garbage bag and a small piece of foam - to help preserve warmth if you’re sitting

Go prepared and you’ll be ready for any outdoor adventure.

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

Climbing Kiliminjaro – Tips for picking a route and an operator

March 19, 2010

The start of the Kiliminjaro climb - notice the numbers of porters!

The start of the Kiliminjaro climb - notice the numbers of porters!

Climbing Kiliminjaro is on the radar screen of many a peak bagger, and well it should be. The 19,340 foot (5895m) peak is technically easy but physically demanding. Over 25,000 people attempt the peak every year but success rates vary greatly from operator to operator. Picking a route, the time of year and the number of days you want to spend on the mountain is the starting point for planning your climb. Factor in costs, safety and guide credentials and you should be able to pick a tour operator.

Altitude is one of the biggest concerns on this mountain and it can level even the fittest of hikers. There is 50% less oxygen at the summit than at sea level. Pre trip conditioning and proper acclimatization (the more days on the mountain the better) increase your chances of  summit success – though with a week or more on the mountain this climb is more about the journey than the peak.

Pick a tour operator based on your chosen route, price, their safety record and the services they offer on the mountain.

The Egg Man on Kiliminjaro

The Egg Man on Kiliminjaro

Route: There are 6 main routes up the mountain. Overall the Rongai is easiest but the Shira is the best.
• Marangu – also called the Coca-Cola route; this is a lower quality, high traffic route with less interesting scenery. On this route you can use the huts but given their state tent camping may be preferable. Many companies just do and up and back on this route.
Machame – this is a tough trek which is NOW the busiest route on the mountain (as of 2006)
Umbwe- a little used route on the SW face. The route is shorter, steeper and more technical.
Lemosho – approaches the mountain from the west. The first few days are pretty with little traffic. It gets busy when it joins up with the Machame trail, higher on the mountain.
Rongai - high quality, low traffic route which can be climbed over 6 or 7 days. An easier route.
Shira – probably the best 7 night route on the mountain. A variation of this route is the Western Breach which involves some exposure climbing and camping in the crater at 18,800 feet.

Climbing the Western Breach Route on Kiliminjaro

Climbing the Western Breach Route on Kiliminjaro

Price:  You can show up in Moshi, Tanzania in a pair of shorts and book a trek that will leave the next day. In fact you can rent everything you need like down coats, hats and mitts and hit the trails for about $US 1200. My daughter did just that a few years ago and had a great time on the Machame route – and for the price did just fine.
Or you can choose a company like Wilderness Travel and spend $US 5785 for an 8 night/9 day climb using the Western Breach Route off the Shira Route. A trip at this price keeps you on the mountain for a few extra days of acclimatization, provides excellent food and first class guides well versed in the flora and fauna as well as wilderness first aid.

In 2010 budget the following for a Kiliminjaro climb.
- Trek itself $1200-$5800
- Kiliminjaro park fees are not negotiable and include: $20 rescue fee, $60 per day entrance fee, $50/night hut fee (on the Marangu Route only), $50 per night camping fee, $1 per person, per trip porter fee
- Tips for your guides : $11-$18 per day for the main guides, $8-9 per day for assistant guides, and $6-$7.50 per day for porters

Glaciers on Kiliminjaro-& the last camp before the summit on the Western Breach route

Glaciers on Kiliminjaro-& the last camp before the summit on the Western Breach route

The best climbing months are  January, February and September because they are the warmest and the clearest. August and September are the coldest months. April and May can see heavy rain or snow and poor visibility. November and December can be on the wet side. March and June are transition months. I climbed in October which is known for little rain and fewer people.

Summit Success

Summit Success

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

This Weeks Travel Tips From Blogs Around the World

March 18, 2010

Take a look at some of the blog articles and video I’ve discovered this week.

5 Reasons to take an Organized Tour - for the single traveler
Dancing Matt Goes Local - Matt’s got the locals dancing too; a must see video
7 Unconventional Budget Ski Destinations in Europe
5 Approaches to Exploring a New City
Deep Survival - a book review worth reading

and from magazines and newspapers (as opposed to blogs)
5 Things to do with your Old Guide Books
China to Connect its High Speed Rail All the Way to Europe
The Rental Car Squeeze

Leigh McAdam

www.hikebiketravel.com

The Amazon River by Boat from Peru to Brazil by guest blogger Andrea Lane

March 17, 2010

One of the Three Boats we used on the Amazon
One of the Three Boats we used on the Amazon

In September 2003, I took a break from Dalhousie University and packed my bag for South America. My flight landed in Lima, Peru, but after a string of bad weather I opted to start my route in Brazil. I couldn’t think of a more challenging way to get there than by cargo boat. My experience floating down the Amazon River from Iquitos, Peru to Belem, Brazil, was nothing like I had imagined. I spent three weeks in three boats, each packed to the rim with locals and livestock. I really didn’t know what I was getting myself into. Iquitos, Peru, the mouth of the Amazon river, can only be reached by boat or plane. After safely landing from a nerve jolting flight, I instantly felt a sense of relief and excitement. I had literally been dropped in the Amazon Jungle. The air was heavy and warm, and I quickly became used to the constant wet drizzle.

Two days later, I arrived at a small port and boarded my first cargo boat. The main floor was no higher then six feet and could comfortably sleep 50 people. Despite this fact, roughly 100 extra bodies crammed into the provided space. Hammocks were hung up until there was literally no more room. They even covered the windows. This was of little concern to most as people began occupying space on the floor until there was only a small path left to the front of the boat and the bathroom at the back.

Small villages along the Amazon River

Small villages along the Amazon River

On this particular boat there was one toilet, no shower, multiple cockroaches, chickens, a turtle, a pig, and small children everywhere. I highly recommend securing a small cabin for yourself. It is the size of a closet but after about 12 hours, a little privacy is heaven. The conditions on the first leg of the trip were by far the worst and to my relief the boats were larger and cleaner as we moved east.

I soaked everything in as we set out, from the people on the boat, to the the lush green forest. As the Amazon opened up, the distinction between one village and another became blurry, as did the days. The most stimulating activity was chatting with the locals over fresh Amazon fish. I have to admit, I don’t think I will ever be able to eat fried piranha, rice, or beans again.

Life on the Amazon River

Life on the Amazon River

I couldn’t wait to get off the boat when we stopped for a night in Santa Rosa in Peru. To my surprise, the village only has three hours of electricity every day- I think this is where I gave up on a shower!

My second major stop and boat change was in Tabatinga, Brazil. From here I crossed the boarder into Leticia, Colombia where I got my Brazilian visa. If you’re not too concerned with staying an extra day, and you really want your land legs back, spending time in both cities can be a refreshing change.

The second part of the trip felt like the longest. At certain points, the river was so wide you couldn’t see the other side. Looking at the same view for days on end made one particular sight fascinating- where the dark water of the Rio Negro meets the brown water of Rio Solimões just below Manaus to form a distinct line. It is incredible.

The final boat left from Manaus, Brazil, which I was surprised to find is a large vibrant city. I highly recommend staying here a few days to enjoy the food, the nightlife, the sights, and the music. Most impressive was the Grand Opera House, it was so extravagant and beautiful it could have been in Paris.

I was overjoyed to arrive in Belem. The journey was mentally and physically exhausting. But, if you can remind yourself of where you are and what your experiencing it is really a once in a lifetime adventure and one I wouldn’t trade for the world.

No Privacy on these Boats

No Privacy on these Boats

Blog kindly written by my cousin Andrea Lane who inherited the same travel genes I got.

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Another Free Adventure Guide – Banff to Jasper , Canada

Inside this guide you’ll find all the information you need to book and execute your own trip.