Hike to Grey Owls Cabin in Saskatchewan

The trail between the upper and lower Grey Owls cabins
The trail between the upper and lower Grey Owls cabins

Oh no was all I could think as John and I drove up to the entrance of Prince Albert National Park in mid-July. Flies bombarded our car like missiles with NO let up. And we had a 20 km hike to Grey Owls Cabin planned the next day.

I hate bugs as much as the next person and although I’d brought my bug jacket, I was unprepared for the sheer number of bugs – including flies, mosquitoes and black flies we would encounter on the hike to Grey Owls Cabin.

I was going to have to learn how to deal with them and quickly.

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The trail between the upper and lower Grey Owls cabins
The trail between the upper and lower Grey Owls cabins

Before you go to Prince Albert National Park

Do not think of visiting this part of this world in July without a bug jacket and a head net. I guarantee you’ll enjoy the outdoors and the hike to Grey Owls Cabin much more.

And don’t forget the insect repellent. I’d recommend repellent that has some DEET in it. You might not need that in the city but you need it here.

If you want learn more read Grey Owl: The Mystery of Archie Belaney 

How do you hike to Grey Owl’s Cabin?

We decided that we would boat one way and hike back. Otherwise it’s a 40 km round-trip hike to Grey Owls Cabin on an out and back trail. That is better done as a two to three day backpacking trip – in August or September when the bugs have died down.

We arranged for a boat ride with Waskesiu Marine Adventure Centre but we were asked to help move the boat to Kingsmere Lake. That ended up being good fun.

You launch your boat from the parking lot, motor or canoe 400 m down the Kingsmere River to a large dock.

Then with a winch system, you get your boat onto a four wheeled rail cart (that you might have to retrieve from the lake) and finally you push the cart for 1 km through the woods until you get to Kingsmere Lake. It took us about half an hour to do it all.

Readying the boat for the short ride down the Kingsmere River
Readying the boat for the short ride down the Kingsmere River
A great system of winching the boat out of the water onto rollers and then a trolley
A great system of winching the boat out of the water onto rollers and then a trolley
A 1 km rail portage that ends on Kingsmere Lake
A 1 km rail portage that ends on Kingsmere Lake
A cart for transporting canoes and kayaks
A cart for transporting canoes and kayaks

Then it’s a very enjoyable boat ride across Kingsmere Lake. Winds can blow up quickly on the lake but we were lucky and enjoyed a smooth crossing to a beach beside the trail to Grey Owl’s Cabin. And the bugs weren’t an issue though I went prepared.

Styling in my bug hat and bug jacket
Styling in my bug hat and bug jacket

Details on the Grey Owls Cabin hike

Distance: 23.2 km (14.4 miles) but that was one way via Kingsmere Lake

Time needed: 7 hours including stops and lunch. By the end we were hot, sweaty, tired and very sick of the bugs. In fact, we let in about 30 mosquitoes just getting into the car.

Best time for the Grey Owls Cabin hike: August, September, and October after the bugs have died down.

Permit: You do need a Parks Canada pass to do the hike. For more information on Prince Albert National Park, visit the website.

Don’t forget: Be sure you’re prepared before you start the hike to Grey Owl’s Cabin. Always carry the 10 hiking essentials!

Bears: We did carry bear spray too though we didn’t even see bear scat.

A momento: If you are one of the people who have made the hike to Grey Owls Cabin then you can pick up a free postcard available in the Beaver House. It’s a lovely memento. You can also sign a log book – and you’ll learn a lot about Grey Owl.

Backcountry camping: There are four backcountry campgrounds on Kingsmere Lake along the trail to Grey Owls Cabin including Sandy Beach, Chipwyan Portage, Northend Campground, and Westwind Group Campground. All offer raised sand or gravel tent sites, pit toilets, a picnic table and fire pit, bear cache and firewood.

How to hike to Grey Owls Cabin from Kingsmere Lake

The hike to Grey Owls Cabin leaves right from the beach on Kingsmere Lake. Its 3.2 km one way on a mostly good trail. Canoeists and kayakers can portage their boats 600 m and approach the cabin on Ajawaan Lake from the water.

The trail to Grey Owl's cabin starts at the white sign
The trail to Grey Owl’s cabin starts at the white sign

Who was Grey Owl?

Grey Owl was Canada’s first naturalist and a unique and often controversial individual. He has been called “a liar, a lush, a bigamist and an imposter” – all true from what I’ve read.

He was born in England as Archibald Belaney and it wasn’t until his death that it was discovered he was English and not Native.

He had come to Canada as a young man and spent several decades trapping and guiding in northern Ontario. Eventually, he left trapping behind and has been credited with starting the conversation about conservation and wilderness preservation. He also penned three bestselling books.

There are also many books written on the man and a Richard Attenborough film – Grey Owl – starring Pierce Brosnan.

At the start of the trail there is a sign inviting you to visit the cabin – if your heart is right. Grey Owl lived in the cabin from 1931-1938. 

Everyone is welcome to visit Beaver Lodge
Everyone is welcome to visit Beaver Lodge
A hike to Grey Owls Cabin
The trail through the woods to Grey Owl’s Cabin
Grey Owls Cabin on Ajawaan Lake built in 1931
Grey Owl’s Cabin on Ajawaan Lake built in 1931
Two beavers, Rawhide and Jelly Roll shared the cabin with Grey Owl
Two beavers, Rawhide and Jelly Roll shared the cabin with Grey Owl
The upper cabin for guests and Anahareo, the Mohawk woman he lived with part of the time - built in 1932
The upper cabin for guests and Anahareo, the Mohawk woman he lived with part of the time – built in 1932

The hike between Kingsmere Lake and the Kingsmere River Parking Lot

After our visit to Grey Owls Cabin we had a 16.8 km hike to get back to the Kingsmere River parking lot. It’s easy hiking through mostly very pretty woods dotted with patches of wildflowers. It’s also full of deer and on many occasions both deer and I startled each other.

Along the trail there are three backcountry campsites (that can be booked at the Visitor Center) as well as one bookending each end of the trail.

Heading back to the parking lot - with 16.8 buggy kilometres to go
Heading back to the parking lot – with 16.8 buggy kilometres to go
One of the pretty wildflowers I saw on many occasions along the trail
One of the pretty wildflowers I saw on many occasions along the trail
I'd never seen this sort of set-up for bear-proofing food before
I’d never seen this sort of set-up for bear-proofing food before
The trail is very easy to follow
The trail is very easy to follow
One of the many deer I saw along the trail
One of the many deer I saw along the trail
All decked out and very hot in the bug gear
All decked out and very hot in the bug gear

About an hour after a lunch break we both couldn’t handle the heat and jumped into the lake. What a treat that was!

Mosquitoes can't get through this material
Mosquitoes can’t get through this material
We knew we were close to the end when we saw Kingsmere River
We knew we were close to the end when we saw the Kingsmere River
The start and end of the trail to Grey Owl's Cabin
The start and end of the hike to Grey Owls Cabin

If it’s buggy on the hike

If you do the hike to Grey Owls Cabin during the buggy season, take a bug net and wear a bug jacket.

John didn’t wear a bug jacket so mosquitoes bit his back through his shirt relentlessly. And at the cuff area on each arm, he had to have had at least 50 mosquito bites – partially because he hates putting on bug spray. I had no qualms on this day and didn’t actually get more than a handful of bites.

Map of the trail to Grey Owl's Cabin
Map of the trail to Grey Owl’s Cabin

Location map of the hike to Grey Owls Cabin

                                                 

More good reading on things to do in Saskatchewan

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The hike to Grey Owl's Cabin, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan

  1. Hello, looks like you had a great trip. just curious what kind of boat is that? kind of design i am looking for. could you email me or text me 306-220-1242.

  2. Leigh, what a wonderful journey. I must admit that my journey to Kingsmere trailhead back in Sept 1977 was much different. I believe at that time there was only gravel roads and canoe access and no trail directly to the cabin. There was no trail camping. Bugs weren’t an issue as the temperatures 40 years ago were much cooler. Hoping to renew this trek in the near future as part of retirement adventure. I’m sure I wont even recognize the changes in the area. Saskatchewan was home for a few years while I attended U of Regina. Settling back in Sask is a plan and venturing throughout its north is going to be fun.

    1. @Rick Thanks for your super comment. Return in the fall when the temperatures are cooler and the bugs are gone. We also saw wolf pups on the side of the road when we drove in so be prepared for lots of wildlife.

  3. We hiked to Grey owl’s cabin in Riding Mountain and we’ve never hided so fast! we were trying to get away from all the mosquitoes there too.
    I am planning a visit to this cabin for maybe next year. It looks so beautiful up there! I guess I’ll need to get some solid mosquito proof gear!

    1. @Cristina Go later in August or September. I have truly never seen so many bugs but it is a cool spot – and we saw wolf cubs on the drive in to the trailhead.

  4. Sounds like a lovely hike, but I’m not sure I could deal with bugs in those numbers. Just the sound can make me hysterical at times.

  5. I would love to do this hike but would wait till later in the year. I’m a magnet for mosquitoes! My friend and I will wear similar clothing and bug spray, I’ll end up with tens of bites and he ends up with one or two.

  6. Leigh, it looks incredibly beautiful but those bugs are something else! I’m afraid that I would have to be covered in a bug suit from head to toe because the mosquitoes just love to feast on me!! I had no idea that Grey Owl’s cabin could be visited – that must have been quite interesting.

  7. Oh lordy you mentioned the flies and it reminded me of the horse flies in Northern Minnesota. Those suckers come in like WWII dive bombers and literally take a tiny chunk of skin away! I would be all over that mosquito jacket but I would get claustrophobic with a net hood. Alas, I would suck it up because of the alternative. Where is the pic of the wolf pup?? I LOVE wolves and my house has that deco in the entire place. Phoenix and I call dibs on riding in the boat on the rail track! I would bark commands, “Arrrr matey….hard to port!”…with Phoenix at the bow with a patch over his eye being the notorious pirate he is! 🙂 Good post, Leigh and awesome shot of that deer! 🙂

    1. @Mike Flies can drive you to drink I think. I can’t decide what insect type I hate more.
      My wolf cub picture wasn’t a great one – proof but not good enough for the blog. John saw the mom as well. Isn’t that the coolest rail track? I have never seen anything like it. And the deer were in great abundance and very healthy especially compared to the ones I saw in Haida Gwaii.

  8. I have never heard of a bug jacket, but after reading this, I need to order one, especially for my husband who hates to wear bug spray. That cabin is so quaint, and the hike is (as I always seem to experience via your photos) quite scenic. That rail portage does look like fun.

    1. @Michele I’m not a fan of bug spray either and wish I’d had a little airier bug jacket so I didn’t get hot. But it sure saved my life out there. Many outdoor stores online should have bug jackets.

  9. Bugs. Ugh! And that shot of the mosquitos was perfect – glad they’ve made a material to counter those little ones. Beautiful shots as always Leigh – another good armchair trip for me!

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