Backpacking the Long Range Traverse – Day 1

View on the first day hiking the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne National Park
View on the first day hiking the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne National Park

Before you even get a whiff of the Long Range Traverse, the premier backpacking trail on Canada’s east coast, you must pass a serious navigation test and get a full orientation by staff at the Gros Morne National Park Visitor Center. And you need to be mentally and physically prepared as the Long Range Traverse is no ordinary multi-day hike.

The Long Range Traverse is a three to five day unmarked wilderness hike through world-class scenery that includes awe-inspiring views of fjords and rock-covered plateaus, rolling hills and numerous lakes, ponds, streams and rivers.

Long Range Traverse summary

  • Reservations open on January 30, 2023. Call 1-709-458-2417 to make a reservation.
  • The peak time to hike the Long Range Traverse is from mid-July until September. There can still be snow on the trail from mid-June until early July.
  • There are no marked trails so you need to be very good at navigation.
  • The Long Range Traverse is 35 km one way. It is typically hiked over 3 – 4 days. There are backcountry sites with wooden tent platforms along the route.
  • There is the option to do a guided day hike to the top of Western Brook Gorge with Bontours. Allow 7 – 8 hours.
  • In the summer there are lots of blackflies, so you need to go prepared with a head net and a bug-proof jacket. Insect repellent is a must.
  • There is no longer a navigation test but you must do an orientation so you understand the hazards and rigor of the hike.

Insider tip: Visit the Gros Morne National Park website for all the details and timelines for reservations.

Route finding is a serious issue on the hike
Route finding is a serious issue on the multi-day hike

How to get to the start of the Long Range Traverse

The trail begins with an easy 3 km walk from the parking lot to the boat dock at Western Brook Pond. From there, you can organize a shuttle with Bontours if you have enough people – or join a tour group, but that’s the slower option.

The boat ride is such a highlight, especially on a sunny day when the water sparkles. It took us less than 30 minutes to reach the end of the fjord and the start of the Long Range Traverse.

Once the boat pulls away you are good and truly on your own with the way out two to five hiking days away.

Parks Canada red chairs looking out over Western Brook Pond
Parks Canada red chairs looking out over Western Brook Pond
John and I looking fresh and clean as we head for the boat
John and I looking fresh and clean as we head for the boat
Boat ride on Western Brook Pond
Boat ride on Western Brook Pond

You won’t find signage on the Long Range Traverse hike

The Long Range Traverse hike is never signed and there is no official trail. Much of what you follow are game trails, but they can take you off course if you’re not paying attention. But on the first day, because of heavier use, there is an obvious route to follow. 

The official start of the hike - a the dock at the far end of Western Brook Pond
The official start of the hike – a the dock at the far end of Western Brook Pond

he route up the Western Brook Pond Gorge

Initially it’s flat hiking and you can dispatch with this part quickly. Next up is a section filled with house-sized boulders. This can be very slow going and in places there were yawning holes – where you certainly didn’t want to get a leg stuck. I had to have John pull me up several times and on more than one occasion I was on my hands and knees.

A flat section early on the hike
A flat section early on the hike
Looking up the gorge - our next major destination
Looking up Western Brook Pond Gorge – our next major destination
The start of the trail was much prettier than I expected
The start of the trail was much prettier than I expected

The one word of advice from the park staff is stay right off the waterfall. That wasn’t so hard to do; mind you we had a clear sunny day so navigation was never an issue. The waterfall is a delightful spot for lunch.

The waterfall is a great place for lunch
The waterfall is a great place for lunch

And then the climbing begins

From there the climbing starts in earnest. From the dock to the top of the gorge, there is a couple of thousand feet of elevation gain – all while carrying a backpack. But in short order, the first of the classic Western Brook Pond views appears in your sights – and that spurs you on.

At the top of the hard section on the first day of hiking
At the top of the hard section on the first day of hiking

We marveled at the view and took plenty of photos before continuing on and up. When you get out of the trees, you’re still not at the top of the gorge. There is more steep climbing ahead, this time with better and better views to reach the “trail” at the top of the waterfall pictured below.

From there, the only way I can describe the hiking is as delightful. The scenery was one of outcrops and small lakes with big time vistas. Arctic cotton was a beautiful addition the landscape.

Waterfall at the top of the gorge
Waterfall at the top of the gorge
Almost at our first campsite
Almost at our first campsite 
Arctic cotton
Arctic cotton
Exploring above the gorge in the evening without carrying a backpack
Exploring above the gorge in the evening without carrying a backpack
Looking down Western Brook Pond at about 9:30 PM
Looking down Western Brook Pond at about 9:30 PM
Spectacular place to explore
I couldn’t get enough of this landscape

Camping on day one of the Long Range Traverse

The campsite most people head for on the first day is at Little Island Pond. Its buggy in June and many of its’ tent platforms were destroyed in a storm. Because of that, we had permission to camp at the top of the gorge.

It shortened our day, which was fine with me – and where we camped ended up offering one of the best views from any campsite I have ever stayed at. We had the entire place to ourselves. It was absolute magic. And although there were some bugs, they weren’t bad as we had a breeze because we were up high.

What a view - from our campsite with not a soul around
What a view – from our campsite with not a soul around

The first day, though physically tough, partly because of the heat, far exceeded my expectations. And I felt very fortunate that the weather cooperated. Normally you make a reservation well in advance, so you need a dose of luck in this part of the world when it comes to weather.

Hiking lasts until late September most years – and there are no bugs in the fall. Descriptions of the other hiking days are in the links below.

Further reading on hiking the Long Range Traverse

Click on the photo to bookmark to your Pinterest boards.

Backpacking the Long Range Trail in Newfoundland's Gros Morne National Park

 

 

 

 

  1. @Greg There is a problem. You must take a boat ride coming and going and there are shuttles via Bon Tours. I’m guessing you’d have to arrange something well in advance and if that is taken care of then I think you need to allow 4-5 hours to the top and probably 4 hours to descend again. Check with Parks Canada and see what they would say. There are also private guides that may help surmount the logistical challenges – and I do believe they go up and down in a day.

  2. Love it! I read this before I embarked on the adventure to Newfoundland and this article was such a big help. Was such an amazing experience!

  3. I was planning about touring in remote places but after seeing your recommendation I have fixed your place for my next travel site. Thank you.

  4. Wow this is quite an intense hiking experience. I would have to train a bit before going and certainly brush up on my compass and map skills! Gorgeous scenery though, the trek looks well worth it!

    1. @Murissa This is definitely a hike for people that have good navigation skills. But I think you can get a sense of just how rewarding the experience is from the photos. I highly recommend it.

  5. What an incredible place! Sounds like a pretty tough hike too, might be a bit beyond my skill and fitness level.

  6. Oh wow what an amazing hike, the scenery is absolutely stunning. I’m not a big fan of camping but I would for sure do it to be able to hike here. I really hope to visit one day.

  7. What a gorgeous hike. You both look like you relish the adventure of it all, too. I could probably handle the physical activity and even the navigation test (possibly), but I just might hit the emergency button if I saw a bear. Have never been to Newfoundland, but hoping it’s in my future, especially after following along on your posts.

  8. For reason this thought popped into my head in the lengthy time I’ve been following you as a blogger and becoming friends. Is what incredible physical shape you and John are in! It’s amazing how you ascended from forest land to, as you said the word too, artic like landscape. When I was on call full time for search and rescue we of course had our gear with us 24 hours/day. Of course we didn’t have GPS so our compass was our best friend. I think all backpackers and outdoorsmen/women should be adept with them AND in coordination with a 15 or 30 minute map. It can easily save your life. Great post and we always like to see your smile, Leigh! 🙂

    1. I meant to also say that I would love to be the boat driver Western Brook Pond. That would be a blast of a retirement job! 🙂

  9. What an incredibly scenic backpacking trek, Leigh! I have heard such wonderful things about Gros Morne National Park that I do hope to visit one day. Sadly though, I would never be able to do a hike such as this one as my navigational skills just would not be adequate!

    1. Lisa,

      You could do it! The navigating is just another skill to learn. In our 4-person team, two of us were Scouters and compass-experienced however the navigating was done by one of our wives who wanted to learn-by-doing…and we still made it successfully to the car drop-off near Ferry Gulch! Parks Canada also gives you a transponder so they kind find you if you don’t show up at the check-out time.

      The hike is spectacular!

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