Driving the Dempster Highway to the Tombstones

Wide, open roads with not another vehicle in sight
Wide, open roads with not another vehicle in sight

The Dempster Highway is a 740 km all weather dirt road that connects the Klondike Highway (the highway that connects Skagway, Alaska to Dawson City, Yukon Territory) to Inuvik, located in the Northwest Territories on the Mackenzie River delta. Driving the Dempster Highway is one of the great adventures to do in Canada’s North.

The Dempster Highway takes you across the Arctic Circle. As of November 15, 2017 you could add another 147 km and drive the Inuvik Tuktoyaktuk Highway.

Tombstone Territorial Park a top stop on the Dempster Highway

I had the pleasure of driving the Dempster Highway when John and I visited the Tombstone Mountains for a three day backpacking trip. The highway takes you right to Tombstone Territorial Park – though I was told that the highway itself isn’t actually in the park.

Driving the Dempster Highway is a popular experience for adventurous travelers. There are loads of RV’s making the full trek to Inuvik and now Tuktoyaktuk, but there are lots of people who are content to just go as far as Tombstone Territorial Park.

That’s all we had time for – and we were told by a number of people that we had seen the most scenic section of the road. However, the drive on the Dempster Highway is about the journey and exploring a part of the world few people will ever see.

Best time to go

I’d seen plenty of photos of the Tombstone Mountains beforehand, so I planned specifically to be in the Yukon for the height of the fall colours – which for this part of the world is around late August. My photos don’t do the area justice. The drive on the Dempster Highway is one of the prettiest I’ve ever done and would rank in my opinion, in the top three road trips in Canada.

The photos below will give you some idea of what to expect on the Dempster Highway until you reach the mid-way point of Tombstone Territorial Park.

It's a long way on a dirt road to Inuvik
It’s a long way on a dirt road to Inuvik
Heed the sign
Heed the sign when you’re driving the Dempster Highway
Near the beginning of the Dempster Highway
Near the beginning of the Dempster Highway
Beautiful views in very short order
Beautiful views in very short order when you’re driving the Dempster Highway
And then you're into the mountains
Cloud formations help to make the drive on the Dempster Highway a stunner
Driving the Dempster Highway and you're into the mountains in very short order
You’re into the mountains in very short order
The Visitor Centre in the Tombstones
The Visitor Centre in the Tombstones
The fall colours are glorious in Tombstone Territorial Park by the end of August
The fall colours are glorious in Tombstone Territorial Park by the end of August
Beautiful coloured grasses along the side of the Dempster Highway in Tombstone Territorial Park
Beautiful coloured grasses along the side of the Dempster Highway in Tombstone Territorial Park
Driving the Dempster Highway just past the Tombstone Mountain Campground
Driving the Dempster Highway just past the Tombstone Mountain Campground
Tombstone Mountain is the peak in the distance
Tombstone Mountain is the peak in the distance
Pretty mountain stream seen from the Dempster Highway
Pretty mountain stream seen from the Dempster Highway
Wide, open roads with not another vehicle in sight
Wide, open roads with not another vehicle in sight
The fox was the only mammal of note that we saw when driving the Dempster Highway 
The fox was the only mammal of note that we saw when driving the Dempster Highway
Vivid colours make the drive one of the best I've ever done
Vivid colours make driving the Dempster Highway one of the best drives I’ve ever done
Driving south ron the Dempster Highway - after we've finished backpacking in the Tombstones
Driving south on the Dempster Highway after we’ve finished backpacking in the Tombstones

Tips for driving the Dempster Highway

Rental cars: If you’re planning to rent a car, make sure that you are allowed to drive the Dempster Highway. Many rental companies forbid it. Note that you cannot rent a car in Dawson City. Whitehorse, a 6 – 7 hour drive away, is the closest center. We rented from Budget and were allowed to drive as far as Tombstone Park, though I’m not so sure about Inuvik.

How far you can travel: You can now drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk as of 2018. Services are few and far between. You’ll likely have to camp, at least until you reach Eagle Lodge or Inuvik. The good news is that you can camp just about anywhere along the side of the highway for free.

Gas: Fill up at the gas station at the corner of the Dempster Highway and the Klondike Highway. You will need a credit card to do that, as it’s not a manned station.

Food: Purchase groceries and supplies well in advance of getting to the highway. If you’re planning to drive all the way to Inuvik, then take extra gas and a spare tire. If it’s your own car, make sure it’s been well tuned before you start your journey.

Phones: Cellphones do not work – at least as far as the park. Be self-reliant.

Visitor Centre: Tombstone Territorial Park does have a Visitor Centre that is open until mid-September. You can get water there and it’s possible to rent cans of bear spray if you want to go on a hike.

Don’t forget: Bring extra batteries for your camera.

Weather: If it rains, your car will be covered in mud. You will be muddy. Bring cloths and a bucket so you can at least wipe down the back windshield on occasion.

More information: If you want more detailed information on the Dempster Highway visit their website.

Be prepared to be wowed driving the Dempster Highway!

Further reading on things to do in the Yukon

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Driving the Dempster Highway in the Yukon

 

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