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Gros Morne Long Range Traverse – Day 3

The approach to our camp north of Green Island Pond
The approach to our camp north of Green Island Pond

I left you some time ago now at a buggy campsite beside a beautiful lake on the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse. Fortunately that day was as bad as the bugs ever got.

The third day of our Gros Morne Long Range Traverse hiking trip offered a stunning landscape from start to finish. It also produced some navigational challenges though fortunately we never got lost. Two other groups we met in the evening both got off course for a bit. The seven or eight kilometres we hiked took approximately five hours. There was a lot of time spent looking at the map to make sure we didn’t stray off course.

Don’t count on your GPS to lead the way. There are so many hills, valleys and lakes that it’s never a straight line to where you really need to go.

Here’s what our third day on the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne National Park looked like

The Gros Morne Long Range Traverse with views as we leave our second campsite near Hardings Pond
The view as we leave our second campsite near Hardings Pond
Early July and there are still plenty of snowfields to cross - but the walking is easy
Early July and there are still plenty of snowfields to cross – but the walking is easy
On the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse we hike through a glorious landscape of rocks & small lakes
The whole day of hiking takes us through a glorious landscape of rocks & small lakes
Crossing between two lakes
Crossing between two lakes
One of the moose antlers we found
One of the moose antlers we found
Two moose cooling off in a pond
Two moose cooling off in a pond
A fantastic landscape but lots of up and down
A fantastic landscape but lots of up and down
"We didn't see a soul all day on this part of the traverse"
We didn’t see a soul all day on this part of the traverse but three moose in total
Hiking from rock to rock through a carpet of wildflowers
Hiking from rock to rock through a carpet of wildflowers
The approach to our camp north of Green Island Pond
The approach to our camp north of Green Island Pond
Heading steeply down to the campsite
Heading steeply down to the campsite
Our campsite is beside the river
Our campsite is beside the river

Camping on the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse

From high above this campsite we spied two new looking tent platforms off in the distance. But once we got to the campsite pictured below, the river seemed too dangerous to cross. We hadn’t actually figured out at the time, that we would have to cross the river eventually to finish the traverse.

If you make it to this campsite, and you want a much nicer campsite that’s only about 10 minutes away, then cross the river (there’s an easy section almost directly in line with our tent) and continue hiking up for a few hundred metres.

As you’re hiking, look for the tent pads on your right. There are only two of them so there’s more privacy as well.

After dinner we spent some time exploring the hills in and around the campsite. Not only were the views sublime, but it was a treat to hike without a thing on our back.

On the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse our campsite north of Green Island Pond is a little too heavily used for my liking
Our campsite north of Green Island Pond is a little too heavily used for my liking
Exploring the area around the campsite after dinner
Exploring the area around the campsite after dinner
Fantastic lighting and views at about 9:30 in the evening
Fantastic lighting and views at about 9:30 in the evening
Can't get enough of this landscape
Can’t get enough of this landscape
On the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse Arctic Cotton is pretty in the evening light
Arctic Cotton is pretty in the evening light
On the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse huge boulders are scattered around the hills
Huge boulders are scattered around the hills
On the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse I got decked out in my bug jacket but they really weren't that bad
Decked out in my bug jacket but they really weren’t that bad
On the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse we saw only one caribou
The only caribou we saw on the Gros Morne Long Range Traverse

Our third day was a glorious day. In hindsight, we could have made it to the next campsite at Ferry Gulch but it was a treat to explore the nearby hills after dinner.

For more information on Gros Morne National Park visit the park website.

Further reading on the Long Range Traverse 

Click on the photo to bookmark to your Pinterest boards.

Hiking the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne National Park

 

 

  1. Your blog is always my first go to when planning a trip! We are trying to honestly determine if this is within our navigational capabilities. It would have been a definite yes 20yrs ago when we worked in the bush with a compass daily but that was a long time ago! Would you say the navigation as a day hike to the famous view and back is straightforward or were there some challenges in that stretch also? Again thanks for keeping this fantastic blog going.

  2. I hiked this route solo when I was a young man in the early 90’s. I just showed the ranger that I knew how to use a compass and off I went. I saw so many caribou and moose that I stopped counting. It got pretty foggy but I carefully shot bearings and basically leapfrogged from pond to pond. The most magical time was when I camped next to a stream and it rained hard all night. When I awoke the next morning it was a raging river. After scouting up and down I couldn’t find a safe place to cross until I saw a caribou wade into one of the connected ponds. The caribou waded across without getting any deeper than its belly. So I took off all my clothes except my boots, put my pack on my head and followed across safely.

    1. @Mike Following the lead of animals – I love it. What a great story. I bet the caribou population has fallen since you did the hike. I felt we were lucky to see the few that we did.

  3. My wife and I did the LRT some 20 years ago. Your posts and pics bring back fond memories. We, too, did it in July so had the same black fly experience. I understand the best low-bug time is late Aug or Sep, but it’s also likely to be more ‘crowded’. We didn’t see a sole for four days, from the time we left the boat until we got down to the main trail near (I think) Gros Morne peak. We were so tired by then and relieved to have finished, only to realize we still had many more kilometers of descent on the what seemed like a paved highway compared to what we had been on for the past few days. (We spent an hour or two one day foolishly trying to cut through a patch of tuckamore; we should have walked the extra kilometer around it.) We saw lots of moose; we even awoke one morning to two giant moose walking right past our tent. We saw one black bear, who quickly ran away. But the wildlife highlight was both exhilarating and terrifying. On day three, the fog was so dense we could barely see 50 feet. As we were ascending a gently sloped chute, we heard and then felt a growing rumble. We stopped in our tracks and peered into the fog in the general direction of the sound. Seconds later, emerging from the dense fog was a herd of caribou stampeding up the chute towards us. I’m sure we were as much a surprise to them as they ran past us on each side. I don’t know how many there were, probably 20 or more. I thought we were going to be trampled, but of course caribou are far too agile for that. They just kept stampeding, and in less than a minute the herd had vanished into the fog as suddenly as it had come. The LR mountains are so other-worldly. It is the most serenely beautiful landscape I have ever experienced. I want to go back with my kids so I’m trying to get them interested. Your blog will definitely help! Thanks.

    1. @Doug What a story with the caribou. I was thrilled that we even saw one! It’s still got a remote feel to it; the navigation challenge hasn’t disappeared and I think it would be a magnificent family trip. Thanks for your awesome comment.

  4. Hey! This looks amazing! What kind of food did you pack? Any recommendations. Also how did you find navigation…should I bring any tools to assist or was it rather manageable? How was the weather at the end of August?

    AMAZING blog you have here with lots of good info!

    1. @Kathy Thanks for your lovely comment. WE took really great food like soba noodles with peanut sauce, dried pasta with tomatoes, falafels, homemade granola and cheese-crackers + dried fruit at lunch. WE did the trip at the end of June and really it’s Newfoundland so go prepared for anything but at least the bugs should be gone.

      WE brought a GPS but never used it. Be prepared to be challenged by the navigation in places – especially in fog. Don’t ever rely on a GPS but use it as part of your tools. Study the 3D map in the visitor centre before heading out.

  5. So what did you do with the moose antler? Did you keep it as a souvenir or leave it in the park? Is it legal in Canada to posses wildlife paraphernalia such as animal hide or moose antlers?

    Otherwise, stunning scenery!

    1. @Rachel It was a national park we were hiking in so you’re not to remove anything – and we still had 12 hours of hiking to go anyway so wouldn’t want to be carrying those giant antlers.

  6. I was just telling my hubby the other day about the bug jacket I first heard about in your blog a few months ago. I must say that the one you have looks much better than the ones I’ve seen in catalogs. Newfoundland is so pretty. Some of my friends moved there from Malaysia, and looking at this, I’m thinking I definitely need to pay them a visit. I really like the photos of the Arctic Cotton and that boulder that looks like it’s balancing on a smaller rock.

  7. Despite the ‘busy’ campsite (lol!) the scenery looks untouched. Wow, to come across moose horns. The pics of those pristine views, the rivers and the snow and sunshine … a little too much for me sitting at the computer right now 😉

  8. Newfoundland has special place in my mind and heart. When I’m returning to Newfoundland I’m returning million years back when the Globe was formed. It is Nature which has special affect over soul and mind of the visitors. In Newfoundland my soul and brain are recharging.

  9. More beautiful Newfoundland scenery, Leigh! I had no idea that there would still be snow fields in this part of Newfoundland in early summer. The photo of moose is incredible – I have only ever seen them from the safety of my car and I’m not sure that I wouldn’t be scared out of my mind to come across them while hiking!

  10. I am with Cathy – these photos and your hike. . .stunning scenery! I have to admit as well, that that bug jacket is cute! Do I dare say, “Cute as a bug’s ear!”? (sorry, couldn’t resist. . .)

  11. A bug jacket, never heard of it, but agree with Cathy, it looks quite chic. The caribou looks very similar to the reindeer up here – that is, similar, but a bit different, too. Interesting.

    1. @Sophie You’re lucky enough perhaps that you don’t have to worry too much about bugs? I know that at some points in the summer, this backpacking trip can be pure hell but it wasn’t bad at all for us. One couple reportedly walked into the woods on day one and walked right back out to catch the next shuttle boat as the bugs were so bad.

  12. You are styling with that bug jacket, Leigh 🙂 It looks just like a regular jacket if you didn’t say otherwise. I think much of what I know about Newfoundland is from your posts. It looks absolutely breathtaking. You guys seemed pretty remote to only have moose as company. Those “nighttime” shots are amazing and I can see why you couldn’t get enough of the scenery.

    1. @Mary I spent 4 days on the trail in total and every day had some exceptional scenery. We lucked out with decent weather and the lighting at night was simply divine – every day. Newfoundland is full of great things to do and I highly recommend a trip.

  13. I’m certainly getting the impression from your posts and fabulous photos that Newfoundland must be one of the most beautiful places on earth. What gorgeous scenery! How amazing to come across not only real live moose, but those antlers — they’re huge! You actually look pretty stylish in the bug gear, Leigh.

    1. @Cathy Always styling – even in the wilderness. I wish. Newfoundland is an outstanding place to visit and over two weeks I had one truly amazing adventure after another. I highly recommend a visit.

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