Kayaking Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia
There is a timeless beauty to the Peggy’s Cove area in Nova Scotia. I’ve been many times and I never tire of seeing the place. But until recently I had never seen it from the water. Kayaking Peggy’s Cove from one of the nearby offshore islands provides a whole other perspective.
It’s surprisingly safe as you can tuck into the lee of islands and avoid big surf and swell. I spent a full day with Glenn Coltmann, an operator for Nova Shores Adventures in its East Dover location. Glenn knows the area like the back of his hand but as of 2020 doesn’t do trips anymore.
Contact Freewheeling Adventures – though chances are they will take you kayaking around Hubbards and the Aspotogan Peninsula. Also check out Kattuk Expeditions.
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How our day kayaking Peggy’s Cove and the East Dover area unfolded
We started off in a quiet cove just steps from his home. But within minutes we were in a large bay where you could see the multi-coloured homes of the West Dover residents.
From there the water got a little more challenging to paddle. Confused water – due to bounce off of the rock – made me focus on the task at hand.
Bounce, swell and kelp-covered rocks
Paddling through the islands was quite an experience – and an altogether different one than on the west coast of Canada. And as Glenn tells me it’s also very different for anyone who has just paddled on lakes. Some of those people end up being quite intimidated when they see the size of the swells – even though we don’t have to paddle them.
It wasn’t just waves and bounce we dealt with but we had to slither in our kayak between kelp covered rocks to get to deep water.
We continued to alternate between calm water and water with some chop to it. You could actually get quite close to some of the big swells – but their energy would dissipate before it reached us. Only a local though would know that from experience.
A stop near Polly Cove
We stopped at an unnamed island in the Polly Cove area for lunch. A huge expanse of granite – with nooks to get out of the wind if need be – and spectacular views of Peggy’s Cove is what we enjoyed.
Over on the mainland, just a stone’s throw away – you could see erratics – big boulders dropped by the glaciers in the last ice age. They add such a desolate beauty to the area – and are very reminiscent of the Burren region in western Ireland.
Lunch was prepared by Glenn’s wife Kristen. Even the bread was homemade and all the fruit and vegetables were locally grown, much of it organic too.
The two of them have a huge focus on reducing waste so there is no throwaway packaging used at all.
Don’t miss a chance to explore Dover Island after kayaking Peggy’s Cove
After a very relaxing lunch we paddled back in the direction of East Dover but we had one major stop on Dover Island still to make.
Dover Island is about a mile long – and it’s a mecca for rock and boulder climbers. A local fisherman ferries people out and back. The people we saw had come with their tents and supplies for the weekend, one from as far away as Ottawa.
We walked the better part of the length of the island – which is about a mile long – and parked ourselves on a huge slab of granite to take in the view of the ocean. By now Glenn had figured we’d need a snack – but not any old snack.
He told me to turn the other way and then presented me with homemade rhubarb cake and fresh strawberry sauce. Delicious and totally unexpected. Tea was also served.
Slowly we hiked back to the boats, passing some beautiful wildflowers including the iris in the photo below.
From Dover Island we paddled for about another 50 to 60 minutes – time enough to poke about a few lagoons and make our way back to East Dover.
After kayaking in Peggy’s Cove I was a tad wet and needed to change. I was pointed in the direction of the outhouse – which was a step up from almost all that I’d ever seen.
An exceptional day kayaking Peggy’s Cove
I really had a most amazing day of kayaking Peggy’s Cove. Certainly the cooperative weather played a part but really it was only a minor role.
The rocky landscape in the Peggy’s Cove area is both breathtaking and compelling. The kayaking is challenging enough that I had to focus and the non-kayaking stops were spectacular. It was a day of superlatives from start to finish!
For the kayaking trip I did, I think you need to be an intermediate paddler or an adventurous beginner in a double kayak with someone who knows what they’re doing. Fortunately there are protected islands with calmer waters than we paddled that are perfect for half day family type trips too. Glenn told me he has taken people out between the ages of 3 and 85.
Glenn doesn’t rent kayaks and I can appreciate why now that I’ve been out paddling. It’s an area that’s unpredictable and unless you’re an expert kayaker enjoyed best with the help of local knowledge. I don’t say that often as I’m not one for tours – but this is an exception to make.
If you’re in the Halifax area or anywhere along the south shore of Nova Scotia I highly recommend kayaking Peggy’s Cove.
Places to stay in and near Peggy’s Cove
For a cottage situation the Sand Dollar in Indian Harbour is ideal for two people. It is rated superb.
Sea Horse Cottage -a beachfront property in Indian Harbour, rated exceptional would also be an excellent choice for 2-3 people.
For basic motel accommodation right in Peggy’s Cove, check out the Clifty Cove Motel. All rooms are ocean front overlooking St. Margaret’s Bay.
Further reading on things to do in Nova Scotia
- Best Nova Scotia South Shore Beaches to Visit
- A 6-Day Central Nova Scotia Road Trip Itinerary
- Kayaking the Bay of Fundy, Cape Chignecto Area, NS
- A Great Stay at the Cape D’Or Lighthouse
- One of Nova Scotia’s Great Day Hikes: The Hike to Cape Split
Click on the photo to bookmark to your Pinterest boards.
@Glenn Quite the change in location but another very pretty part of Canada. The Blueberry Trail is a great bike trail. Enjoy.
@Shannon Although I’ve been to Peggy’s Cove many times the day spent kayaking around Peggy’s Cove was a real highlight – and so beautiful. Thanks for your lovely comment.
I understand why you can’t get enough of those colours.
Beautiful photos! Peggy Cove looks so beautiful. Have not yet been to Nova Scotia… must increase the places in Canada we have explored. Your photos definitely make me consider doing more kayaking! That outhouse is too funny!
@Debbie Peggy’s Cove has many moods but I certainly caught it with a sunny disposition. It’s a fantastic place to wander around on the rocks.
Wonderful photos, congrats.
@Calogero Thank you.
These photos are beautiful! I’ve never been to Nova Scotia, but wow, you just moved kayaking out there way up on my bucket list Leigh. The colors are amazing!!! I’m into rock climbing as well, so, this would be an awesome place for me to set up shop for a few days and do a few different sports. Gotta love some multitasking. 🙂
Not a bad lunch either. 🙂
Cheers!
– Lauren (@outdoor_minded)
@Lauren You could kayak to Dover Island and then go rock climbing. It was fantastic from start to finish – and lunch and rhubarb cake were the proverbial icing on the cake.
HI Leigh,
Wow, Peggy Cove looks breathtaking. I can’t believe the blueness of the sky and water. What an amazing place to Kayak. And what a great kayak guide you head – feeding youwith real homemade stuff! Wow, that outhouse is rather fancy! Thanks for takin us on your spectacular kayaking trip!
@Marisol It was a terrific day and the real food made the whole trip even more of a success.
Ahhhhhhh amazing! Makes me even more excited to get back home (for the first time in 5 years!) and truly appreciate and enjoy the beauty and uniqueness that this special place in the world has to offer. So glad you enjoyed 🙂
@Kate I’ve been in NS for two weeks now – and other than a solo backpacking trip in Cape Chignecto I have loved my time here. The backpacking was pretty but looking out for bears non stop on your own is not much fun.
Definitely an experience full of superlatives from start to finish. The food looks mouthwatering (I’m ready for breakfast!), and the bathroom exceptional. Great trip all round. Thanks for showing me Peggy’s Cove from land and sea.
@Marcia It was an exceptional experience and of the best in my two weeks in Nova Scotia.
Incredible photos, Leigh! I have always thought that Peggy’s Cove was one of the most beautiful places on the East Coast. I’m afraid those swells would be a bit too intimidating for me to try ocean kayaking though!
@Lisa The swells really weren’t that bad where we kayaked – and there is an option of kayaking in slightly tamer waters that is a family friendly kind of trip.
I went kayaking only once in my life in Vietnam and I know how hard it can be. I was way too weak to paddle. Beautiful landscape as always. I see you are eating so healthy – veggies, brown bread. Would die for a small bite of this delicious cake!
@Agness I’ve paddled a lot in my lifetime so I have some decent upper body and core strength and that can make a world of difference.
That is cool that the rocks create a breakwater and protect you from the dangerous swells. Kind of reminds me of dancing around islands in Quetico to avoid strong winds.
Sure looks beautiful there and the food looks fantastic. I love coming across wild iris. We usually see blue flag irises in Wisconsin and Illinois although I have yet to see one this year.
@Ted Dancing and getting in the lee of the islands is definitely what we did. And yes to the beauty – some of the best in Nova Scotia I think and the food was particularly good – which really helps make one’s day.
What a great day. It looks so very beautiful!
@Cindy It has to be seen to be believed.
Wow. You have some fantastic kayaking options in your part of the world. Such a great way to get out in nature and experience places!
@Craig It was a treat to see this part of Canada by kayak. I’ve explored a huge amount of the west coast by kayak but never had I paddled in Nova Scotia waters before.
Beautiful photos and a wonderful tale, Leigh. I loved, loved, loved that outhouse!!! So much more inviting than the port-a-pottie plastic ones around here. And that cake made my mouth water.
@Jackie The kayaking has been one of the highlights of my time in Nova Scotia. It was an exceptional experience from start to finish. And the cake was as good as it looks.