Boiling Lake Hike in Dominica

A varied hike though a unique landscape

Me at the edge of Boiling Lake in Dominica

One of the most unique hikes you’ll ever do is the multi-faceted Boiling Lake hike in Dominica – a mountainous Caribbean country sandwiched between Martinique and Guadeloupe.

It’s a 6 – 8 hour (return) hard, muddy, sometimes steep hike that takes you through the Valley of Desolation with its hot streams and hissing vents to Boiling Lake, part of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park UNESCO site. The lake itself is usually shrouded in a cloud of steam – unless the wind picks up to blow it away. When it does, you’ll be entranced by the setting.

Dominica’s Boiling Lake is the world’s second largest one, with Frying Pan Lake in New Zealand the largest. If you look through the vapour to the middle of the 200-foot-wide lake, you’ll see bubbling, boiling grey-blue water, thanks to a flooded fumarole. Interestingly the water level of Boiling Lake fluctuates wildly over the years. In 2004 it had all but dried up. In 2023, it’s a bubbly, gurgling, burping lake with lots of water.

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Me at the Boiling Lake overlook
Me at the Boiling Lake overlook

Boiling Lake hike summary

Who should do the hike: The Boiling Lake hike is a wonderful outing but it’s not for the novice hiker. Expect muddy, often steep steps, slippery rocks, some scrambling, ridge walking, and boulder hopping.

Go guided: The hike is best done with a local guide who knows the area and the hazards. Most hotels on the island have connections to guides. From the feel-good perspective, you’ll also be putting money into the local economy by hiring a guide. Don’t forget to bring tip money – about 10% of the price of the hike.

Distance: The hike is approximately 4.5 miles (7.2 km) each way – which doesn’t seem like much, but many groups take over 8 hours to do the return hike. There are no mileage markers so focus more on hiking time than distance. (I have had one frequent hiker tell me it’s 6.5 miles return – based on his app. The other number I got from the guide.) The bottom line – it’s more about the experience than the mileage.)

Starting point: The usual start point of the Boiling Lake hike is beside Titou Gorge just a few minutes drive from the town of Laudat.

Starting time: Do not start the hike after 10 AM or you may end up hiking down in the dark. Be sure to take a head lamp with you as the forest gets dark early and the sun sets around 6 PM.

Water: You can refill water bottles at the Breakfast River. Reportedly there is nothing to fear from the water, but you might want to take water purification tablets just in case.

Clothing: Do not wear good clothes as chances are high that they’ll get muddy.

Footwear: I found that trail shoes with a decent tread worked well. They too will get wet and muddy.

Jewelry: You may want to remove silver and gold jewelry before you do the hike as the sulphur can tarnish it.

Birds: Keep an eye and an ear out for Sisserou or Jaco parrots.

Post hike: If you want a swim in Titou Gorge after the Boiling Lake hike, be sure to bring your bathing suit.

Altered rocks and wild scenery on the way down from Boiling Lake
Altered rocks and wild scenery on the way down from Boiling Lake

Getting to the start of the Boiling Lake hike

The trailhead for the Boiling Lake hike is just a 20 – 25-minute drive from Roseau. It’s near the village of Laudat beside the entrance to the popular Titou Gorge. If you hire a guide, they will likely drive you. There isn’t much of a parking area by Titou Gorge and the place can get busy as this is where cruise ship passengers come to tube the gorge.

Beside the trailhead there is a restaurant, some dodgy bathrooms, and even a change area. There are also a few local ladies with a table set up selling food, cold drinks, and nick knacks. 

The Boiling Lake hike starts beside Titou Gorge - one of the prime tourist attractions on Dominica
The Boiling Lake hike starts beside Titou Gorge – one of the prime tourist attractions on Dominica

Boiling Lake hike description

The Boiling Lake hike can be broken down into the following stages.

  • Titou Gorge to the Breakfast River
  • Breakfast River to Morne Nicholls
  • Morne Nicholls to the Valley of Desolation (also called Grand Soufriere)
  • Valley of Desolation to Boiling Lake

Titou Gorge to Breakfast River

For most of the Boiling Lake hike, the route is well defined. At the start of the hike, you may wonder why you’ve hired a guide. After about 90 minutes you’ll probably be happy for their guidance and help on steep sections. And you’ll learn a thing or two about the local plants and trees.

Start the hike by climbing up concrete steps by Titou Gorge to reach a section of trail that climbs steadily though never steeply to reach the Breakfast River after about 45 minutes. This part of the hike takes you through a gorgeous rainforest filled with some massive trees, giant tree ferns, and loads of other mostly non-flowering vegetation. On your left as you climb, you’ll hear the water running through Titou Gorge – and if you look closely and carefully, you’ll get a peek-a-boo view.

On this first section to the Breakfast River, the one thing to watch for are slippery rocks and logs. Once at the Breakfast River – where many people do stop for breakfast, refill water bottles, especially if it’s a hot day and get ready for what’s next – a steep climb up muddy stairs for a good 45 minutes to reach Morne Nicholls.

The trail is wet from the get go - loved walking over these giant leaves
The trail is wet from the get go – loved walking over these giant leaves
Amazing tree ferns line the Boiling Lake trail in places
Amazing tree ferns line the Boiling Lake trail in places

Breakfast River to Morne Nicholls

On the steep hike up to Morne Nicholls you’ll reach a ridge. It isn’t a knife-edge ridge, but there isn’t a large margin of error either. The good news – the vegetation is so thick that most of the time you don’t even appreciate you’re on a ridge. Enjoy the views as you make your way to the top – and the high point of the Boiling Lake hike. 

Unfortunately, we mostly got cloud with some peek-a-boo views at Morne Nicholls – though you could make out the steam rising in the Valley of Desolation. It was a memorable stop for us as our guide, Wiffy pulled out a whole pineapple and proceeded to divvy it up among five of us. It was a juicy, sweet treat and a delicious pick me up.

Morne Nicholls to Boiling Lake

I found the section from Morne Nicholls down to the stream to be the toughest on the Boiling Lake hike. I don’t think I’ve ever been on such slippery, muddy, steep steps for such a long period. Poles really come in handy here. It’s much easier going back up!

After you make it down the steps without sliding out or pitching headfirst down the mountain, you reach a slippery, rocky section. Some people dropped to their butts and slithered down. (Another good reason to wear your old clothes.) But at the bottom of this rocky section, you’re in the Valley of Desolation – and it’s one interesting place to hang out.

You can expect to hike on lots of muddy stairs like this
You can expect to hike on lots of muddy stairs like this
The descent from Morne Nicholls is a steep, muddy one
The descent from Morne Nicholls is a steep, muddy, difficult one
The hiking got easier once the grade eased on the way to the Valley of Desolation
The hiking got easier once the grade eased on the way to the Valley of Desolation
Enter the Valley of Desolation through a stunning landscape
Enter the Valley of Desolation through a stunning landscape

The Valley of Desolation to Boiling Lake

Our guide suggested that we follow him quite closely through the Valley of Desolation so we wouldn’t end up punching through the earth to something warm and bubbly below. The valley is in a volcanic area that is venting – but certainly not erupting.

There are bubbling mud ponds, hot springs, pools of water bubbling hard, and streams of the most interesting colour of blue-grey water. The hiss of the venting adds to the experience. Some guides carry eggs with them and cook them for you in the water, though ours did not. 

This area is also where you’ll find the sulphur mud. Wiffy slathered his face with it though none of us followed suit. Over time the mud just flaked off.

From the Valley of Desolation, there’s still a lot of hiking to do – perhaps another 45 minutes to an hour to reach Boiling Lake. Some of this section of trail is indistinct and a guide is very helpful through here.

The trail crossed the hot streams several times, climbed short but exposed rocky slopes, and in one section you needed to use ropes to get down a sheer rock face. Along this part of the Boiling Lake hike, there are many small waterfalls, and even the odd pool where people enjoy a soak in the warm water on the return.

There was lots of up on down after leaving the stream. Part of it was in thick forest, while some of it was on open rocky slopes. The steam above Boiling Lake was constantly in view – drawing us forward until at last we arrived. Fortunately, it was a quiet day with only another four or five people at the overlook over Boiling Lake.

Hiking through the Valley of Desolation on route to Boiling Lake
Hiking through the Valley of Desolation on route to Boiling Lake
Lots of steam vents and boiling water at surface as you explore the Valley of Desolation
Lots of steam vents and boiling water at surface as you explore the Valley of Desolation
The hot - and sometimes boiling water is a crazy colour of blue
The hot – and sometimes boiling water is a crazy colour of blue
Admiring all the activity in the stream
Admiring all the activity in the stream
The Boiling Lake hike was tough going at times
The Boiling Lake hike was tough going at times
Heading up towards Boiling Lake
Heading up towards Boiling Lake

Boiling Lake in Morne Trois Pitons National Park

When you get to Boiling Lake, exercise caution as the cliffs are steep and the rocks are slippery. This is no place to fall.

The first view of Boiling Lake (elevation 2,640 feet), a flooded fumarole, was anticlimactic. I couldn’t see a thing because of the heavy cloud of steam. But then the wind picked up – and the lake came into view.

In the middle of the lake the water was frothing and boiling – an impressive though scary sight, perhaps because I’d recently watched a documentary – The Volcano: Rescue from Whakaari, where 47 tourists and guides were trapped by a volcanic eruption in New Zealand and 22 lives were lost. That weighed on my mind.

Boiling Lake is an unusual steel blue-grey colour. The lake is about 200 feet wide though the depth of the lake is not known! Along the edges of the lake the temperatures range from 82 – 92ºC but it’s difficult to measure the temperature of the water where it looks to be boiling hard.

Every so often there is a fluctuation in the level of the lake probably “because of a disturbance to the supply of gas that can cause the lake to drain through the porous connection that normally allows steam to rise and heat the lake.”

When you’re standing at the overlook or enjoying your lunch and the steam dissipates, look out to the ocean and you might see Martinique off in the distance.

Steam envelops Boiling Lake
Steam envelops Boiling Lake
You have to wait for the wind to blow the steam or you can't see much
You have to wait for the wind to blow the steam or you can’t see much
Our guide Weefy with 78 year old ???
Our guide Weefy sporting some sulphur mud with 78-year-old Doug from Canada
Loved the juxtaposition of green moss and blue-grey water
Loved the juxtaposition of green moss and blue-grey water

The hike back to the trailhead

I think all our group found the hike from Boiling Lake back to Morne Nicholls went quickly. It’s way easier to climb a muddy mountain than it is to descend it. The only thing I wished we’d done is to soak in one of the pretty warm water pools beneath a beautiful waterfall. 

I also think everyone felt like the last 60 minutes of the hike from the Breakfast River dragged on and on. In total we spent just under eight hours on the trail – with a good hour of that time taking in the scenery and the landscape.

By the time we got to the parking lot we were thrilled to see the ladies still there, selling cold drinks (the guava juice is excellent), and overpriced coconut cookies, but when you’re hungry you’ll take what you can get.

The Boiling Lake hike is truly a world-class, one-of-a kind hike that I feel lucky to have done.

Many people stop for a soak in the pools on the return hike
Many people stop for a soak in the pools on the return hike

Planning for the Boiling Lake hike 

I did this hike in early February on what would be a cool day by Dominican standards. It also wasn’t very humid. But if you’re hiking on a hot, humid day, be prepared to sweat buckets.

Carry at least two – three litres of water. Make sure you’ve got loose fitting clothing, sunscreen, and a wide brim sun hat as many sections of trail don’t have much shade. 

Where to stay in Dominica

I can recommend two places that we stayed in over eight days on the island.

Jungle Bay Dominica is an upscale boutique hotel with lovely infinity pools and a host of activities offered every day including the Boiling Lake hike. 

Wanderlust Caribbean is a wonderful small hotel with just five rooms run by a couple from the US and Puerto Rico. They don’t offer a traditional hotel experience; rather you sign up for three plus days of adventures around Dominica – with one of the adventures, if planned in advance, the Boiling Lake hike.

Everything is included – a daily delicious breakfast, guides, driving all over the island and access to truly off the beaten path places. They are across from Treasure Island – where segments of Pirates of the Caribbean were filmed on two of the three movies. The only extra thing you have to pay for is the odd meal.

The infinity pool at Jungle Bay Dominica
The infinity pool at Jungle Bay Dominica
The view from our room at Wanderlust Caribbean
The view from our room at Wanderlust Caribbean

Location map for the Boiling Lake hike in Dominica

                                                               

  • Click on the three dots in the top right hand corner to email as copy of the map.

More reading on interesting places to visit

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The amazing Boiling Lake hike in Dominica - a UNESCO site

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