We were not alone hiking Rysys from Slovakia

Hiking Rysy from Slovakia to Reach the Top of Poland

I’ve been lucky to stand on a few of the world’s high points including Kilimanjaro, Kosciuszko, and Snowdon – a rare privilege and one I don’t take for granted. While in the High Tatras Mountains of Slovakia there was an opportunity to spend a day hiking Rysy – the highest mountain peak in Poland. Access to the summit is very doable from the Slovakian side of the mountain – but it’s a challenging hike from the Polish side with a start in Zakopane.

Rysy is not a high mountain peak by world standards – topping out at just 2,499 metres (8,199 feet) where there’s plenty of oxygen and no real hardship involved. But it’s no walk in the park either – despite the phenomenal number of hikers we saw. From Štrbské pleso, where we started, it’s a 21-kilometre return hike with approximately 1,370 m (4,495 feet) of elevation gain. Regardless of the hundreds of hikers we saw, it was a great mountain to climb. I just prefer fewer people and bottlenecks.

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Hiking towards Rysy - from just above the mountain hut
Hiking towards Rysy – from just above the mountain hut

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Rsys location among the High Tatras Mountain peaks

Rysy is the highest peak in Poland and is accessible from Slovakia
Rysy is the highest peak in Poland and is accessible from Slovakia

Location map for hiking Rysy

Rysy hiking summary

Distance: Approximately 21 km (13 miles) return from Štrbské pleso

Elevation gain: Approximately 1,370 m (4,495 feet)

Time needed: 8 – 10 hours return. Start very early in summer to avoid afternoon thunderstorms.

Difficulty: Hard because of the elevation gain and distance

Rysy summit height: The highest point in Poland is the middle peak at 2,499 metres though the main Rysy summit is at 2503 metres.

Permits: None required

Best time to hike: Only open from June 1 – October 31st but choose a good weather window whenever you hike it, especially if there is any snow on the ground. Thunderstorms are a common occurrence in summer – and you don’t want to get caught up high!

Mountain huts: There is a mountain hut where you can purchase food at Popradské pleso and at Chata pod Rysmi, located approximately at 2,250 metres and 45 minutes away from the Rysy summit. You can overnight at Chata pod Rysmi.

Don’t forget: Pack the hiking essentials. Be sure to practice Leave No Trace principles – including telling someone where you’re hiking and when you plan to be back. And please, pack out your toilet paper!!!

Our friend Scot on the hike up Rysy not far from Chata pod Rysmi - the mountain hut
Our friend Scot on the hike up Rysy not far from Chata pod Rysmi – the mountain hut

Rysy hiking description

Hiking Rysy makes for a memorable day, offering a wonderful sense of accomplishment when you reach the highest point in Poland. The route itself is pretty – even spectacular in places, as it threads past crystal-clear alpine lakes, through lush meadows, and over lively streams, with rugged mountain views and a touch of exposure to get your attention.

The downside – way too many people. This is the busiest hike I’ve been on in my life. I thought many of the hikes around Lake Louise in Canada, especially the hike to Lake Agnes Teahouse were busy, but nothing compares to what I experienced in Slovakia.

I wondered if the number of people hiking Rysy was an anomaly – as it was a Monday of a long weekend in September – so I’m sure that didn’t help. But a Slovakian man I spoke with (and he spoke good English) said these crowds are now normal. It wouldn’t be so bad, if people pulled over and let you by. But rarely did that happen over the length of the hike – and the three of us are fast hikers. At times, it was an exercise in frustration.

Štrbské pleso to Popradské pleso

Distance /elevation: 4.1 km/ +272 metres (892 feet)

You have a choice of two trails from Štrbské pleso to get to Popradské pleso. We took the one closest to our hotel which was by the first parking lot (GPS coordinates
49.12416, 20.06555) on the way up to the ski hill. You can also start hiking towards Rysy with a start by the Vysoké Tatry Poprad Pleso Train Station.

It’s a steady climb though not a steep one to Popradské pleso. At a good pace with no stops, it took us about an hour. We didn’t go down Popradské pleso (the lake) – saving it instead for the end of the day. This part of the trail is either rooty or rocky, so hiking boots with good ankle support and some cushioning are important.

There’s a restaurant and a hotel by Popradské pleso. It’s a good place to get a cup of coffee at the beginning of the day or a beer at the end.

The day started with an easy hike from Štrbské pleso to  Popradské pleso
The day started with an easy hike from Štrbské pleso to  Popradské pleso
Wear a hiking boot with a good tread as you’re mostly on rocky surfaces – this section of trail on the way to Popradské pleso
Popradské pleso (Lake Poprad) - worth the very short detour if you started at Štrbské pleso
Popradské pleso (Lake Poprad) – worth the very short detour if you start at Štrbské pleso (there are lots more hiking trails that start from around here)

Popradské pleso to Nad Žabim Potokom

Distance/elevation: 1.2 km one way + 124 m (407 feet) elevation gain

Want to be helpful? If you’re able to carry 5 – 10 kg worth of supplies from the shelter at the intersection with the trail coming up from Popradské pleso, you will get a free cup of caj, a Slovakian type of tea, once you reach the hut. And better yet, you will have done a good deed.

For the next 30 minutes or so follow the blue trail towards Nad Žabim Potokom and the Mengusovská Valley. You’re mostly in the trees on this section.

A good map on the trail intersection where the one to Popradské pleso meets the one from Štrbské pleso
A good map on the trail intersection where the one to Popradské pleso meets the one from Štrbské pleso
Note that signage is in time not distance - and from here we will be hiking to Rysy for another 3:20 hours
Note that signage is in time not distance – and from here we will be hiking to Rysy for another 3:20 hours
Good signage at important intersections when hiking Rysy
Good signage at important intersections when hiking Rysy

Nad Žabim Potokom to Chata pod Rysmi

Distance/elevation: 3.5 km + 670 m (2,198 feet)

At the intersection seen in the photo above, turn right and follow the red trail to Chata pod Rysy.

Cross a roaring stream on a footbridge and then switchback up towards the twin lakes of Veľké Žabie pleso and Malé Žabie pleso. It was chilly hiking in this section as we were in the shade for quite some time in September.

Just above the lakes you’ll reach the exposed section of the Rysy hiking trail complete with chains, metal foot bridges and ladders. Take your time through here and hold onto the chains as you climb up this part of the mountain. It’s not that steep, but it can feel a bit precarious, especially when people are trying to pass in the other direction.

From the chain section it’s straightforward hiking all the way to Chata pod Rysmi – the highest hut in the High Tatra Mountains. It holds 14 people on the upper level – and is open from June 15 – October 31. If you spend the night, you’ll be able to catch the sunrise from Rysy.

The landscape starts to open up on the way to the twin lakes of Veľké Žabie pleso and Malé Žabie pleso
The landscape starts to open up on the way to the twin lakes of Veľké Žabie pleso and Malé Žabie pleso
It's shady and chilly as we reach the second lake during the second week of September
It’s shady and chilly as we reach the second lake during the second week of September
Negotiating the metal stairs and chains section while hiking up Rysy
Negotiating the metal stairs and chains section while hiking up Rysy
Some people are already coming down from Rysy as we head up
Some people are already coming down from Rysy as we head up (note the mountain hut in the left hand corner)

Hiking Rysy: Chata pod Rysmi to Rysy

Distance/elevation: 0.9 km + 249 m (816 feet) of elevation gain

It takes most people 45 minutes to an hour to finish hiking Rysy. It may depend on how many groups of slower hikers you’re behind, as sometimes there is nowhere to pass.

The hiking is steeper in places – but it’s only the last 10 -15 minutes where there is a wee bit of scrambling and minor exposure. It’s good blocky rock with excellent handholds, so most people won’t have any issues.

The biggest problem was the number of people spread out across the top of Rysy. I was hoping people would tag the mountain and then retreat a little to make way for others heading up. But that didn’t happen.

There are three peaks at the top of Rysy and it’s the middle peak that is the highest one in Poland. When we summited, it was a look over the edge and descend as there was literally no room.

You can purchase drinks and food at the hut – and stay overnight
One of the good views about 25 minutes before reaching Rysy
One of the good views about 25 minutes before reaching Rysy
People, people everywhere hiking Rysy
People, people everywhere hiking Rysy
Look at the long line of hikers hiking the final section to the top of Rysy
Look at the long line of hikers hiking the final section to the top of Rysy
The craziness near the Rysy summit - with people blocking access to those on their way up
The craziness near the Rysy summit – with people blocking access to those on their way up
The view from the top of Poland
The view from the top of Poland
Rather than tag the summit and descend, hikers are hanging out for extended periods making it more unsafe with the limited room on top
Rather than tag the summit and descend, hikers are hanging out for extended periods making it more unsafe with the limited room on top

The descent off Rysy

Plan to do and out and back hike. If you go later in the season get an early start so you’re not hiking down in the dark. Even with a headlamp, it would be tough going in spots.

We found the hiking to be less busy once we got through the chains section. And the final stretch back to Štrbské pleso was positively quiet in comparison to the rest of the day.

Hiking Rysy was a cool thing to do – but I wish I’d been mentally prepared for the crowds.

There was a bottleneck here as there were so many people both heading for Rysy and  heading back after hiking up Rysy
There was a bottleneck here as there were so many people both heading for Rysy and heading back after hiking up Rysy
Hiking down from Rysy
Hiking down from Rysy
Hiking down towards the mountain hut
Hiking down towards the mountain hut
A steady line of hikers in both directions
A steady line of hikers in both directions
Hiking was sometimes frustrating as very few people moved over to let you pass
Hiking was sometimes frustrating as very few people moved over to let you pass
Lots of people waiting on the chain section - though in theory one part is for going up, the other for coming down
Lots of people waiting on the chain section – though in theory one part is for going up, the other for coming down
Our friend Scot heading down the ladder
Our friend Scot heading down the ladder
Someone had brought their young daughter up this section
Someone had brought their young daughter up this section
Finally the crowds have thinned on the way down from hiking Rysy
Finally the crowds have thinned on the way down from hiking Rysy
Quick hiking between Popradské pleso and Štrbské pleso

Where to stay nearby

Štrbské pleso

Hotel Panorama Resort – We stayed here for three nights. An excellent breakfast is included. Their spa with a hot tub, sauna, steam room can also be booked free of charge. Front staff are very helpful. Rooms are fine – nothing special but roomy. They do keep free beer and drinks in the room’s mini-fridge.

Hotel CROCUS, rated superb offers spacious rooms with a balcony and a kitchenette – just a half kilometre from the lake.

Grand Hotel Kempinski High Tatras comes with quite a price tag, but it’s location overlooking the lake is second to none. There’s a lovely trail around the lake, boats to rent and plenty of bird life to observe.

Penzión Pleso rated wonderful, is a mid-range hotel.

 Popradské pleso

Horský Hotel Popradské Pleso overlooks the lake and is rated superb. It’s an hour’s hike from Štrbské pleso so not accessible by car.

The Grand Hotel Kempinski High Tatras
The Grand Hotel Kempinski High Tatras

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Hiking Rysy from Slovakia to reach the top of Poland

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