Fabulous kayaking between Chance Harbour and Black Beach

Kayaking Chance Harbour to Black Beach Near Saint John, NB

Looking for a kayaking adventure near Saint John, New Brunswick that checks off all the boxes? Cue beautiful paddling on the Bay of Fundy, seals, bald eagles, caves, a black sand beach, pocket beaches and a panoramic cliff-top lunch spot. That’s exactly what I experienced on a full-day sea kayaking adventure from Chance Harbour to Black Beach with Marguerite, owner of In Step Adventures, a local outfitter that specializes in small-group experiences.

As the home of the world’s highest tides, the Bay of Fundy is no stranger to superlatives. It’s literally home to some of Canada’s premier seascapes which are best experienced from water level. That way you can stare up in amazement at multi-coloured cliffs, slip into quiet coves, kayak through a maze of kelp-covered rocks, and explore sea caves when the tide is right.

Nature sets the rhythm on any Bay of Fundy kayaking trip. It’s not a body of water to be messed with and it’s best to paddle with input from a local. Marguerite always determines the ideal route based on the wind and tides along with predicted conditions on the Bay of Fundy. From there she will make alternate suggestions if she thinks it’s necessary.

Fabulous kayaking on the Bay of Fundy with In Step Adventures
Fabulous kayaking on the Bay of Fundy with In Step Adventures from Chance Harbour to Black Beach

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Why go guided with In Step Adventures

Marguerite, owner of In Step Adventures, has been leading paddling, hiking, and backpacking adventures for 35 years. She’s a Wilderness First Responder and has been certified by Paddle Canada Sea Kayak. She is also deemed an Outdoor Leader by the Outdoor Council of Canada. When you do a guided trip with Marguerite, you know you’re in good hands.

I’ve done my fair share of kayaking and canoeing adventures all across Canada. But the Bay of Fundy is a unique body of water with its massive tides – and it’s not a place to paddle casually. The coastline we traveled demands respect – and that’s where In Step Adventures comes in.

This is why I so highly recommend Margeurite.

  • Local knowledge: The kayaking route is chosen based on wind, tides, Bay of Fundy conditions, and safety.
  • Small groups: The maximum number of participants on any outing is six. Even with small groups she brings another guide. You can expect personal attention but it’s not overbearing. I felt a genuine connection to Marguerite after spending a couple of days together. (We also did the fabulous Eye of the Needle hike.)
  • Thoughtful touches: From gourmet lunches packed in a three-layer tiffin with homemade lemonade, to the end-of-day charcuterie and flight of beer and or cider, the food was as memorable as the scenery.
  • Wildlife expertise: Marguerite and her guides are way quicker to spot wildlife and sea birds than I am.

Whether you’re new to sea kayaking or like me and you have years of paddling experience, going with a knowledgeable guide makes all the difference on this wild and untouched part of the New Brunswick coast.

Marguerite with her dog Holly
Marguerite with her dog Holly
Enjoying lunch on colourful cliffs overlooking the Bay of Fundy on the Chance Harbour to Black Beach kayaking trip
Enjoying lunch on colourful cliffs overlooking the Bay of Fundy with Walt Emrich, another guide and Marguerite
Marguerite whips up a charcuterie plate at the end of our kayaking trip to Black Beach
Marguerite whips up a charcuterie plate at the end of our kayaking trip to Black Beach

Location map of our kayaking trip from Chance Harbour to Black Beach

Launching from the beach near Chance Harbour

Our day began in Chance Harbour, an old fishing community settled in 1784 tucked along New Brunswick’s southern shore. After a car shuttle followed by a safety briefing and gear check, we started kayaking from a sandy beach on route to Black Beach.

We paddled with the tide and wind, a route chosen deliberately for both its beauty and the fact it could be kayaked safely. Marguerite’s careful planning meant I could focus on the experience – which I did. The sea was calm – or calmer than I expected and the coastline was an interesting one. I love it when you can weave in between rocks and mini-islands that show themselves on a falling tide.

Chart showing the route from Chance Harbour to Black Beach
Chart showing the kayaking route from Chance Harbour to Black Beach
Calm waters for our kayak launch on the Bay of Fundy
Calm waters for our kayak launch on the Bay of Fundy

Kayaking along the Fundy coast

The Bay of Fundy was kind to us on the day we kayaked to Black Beach. It’s a wild and untouched coastline that is a mix of privately owned land and areas protected by Nature Conservancy Canada. The kayaking was peaceful with nary a motor boat in sight. In fact, we saw just one other kayak all morning. For hours it was just us, the cliffs, and the wide sweep of the Bay of Fundy.

The odd seal popped up nearby – always curious and almost always behind my kayak. They are masters of now you see me, now you don’t. Numerous bald eagles soared over head, landing on tall trees to check out their domain. And there were plenty of smaller seabirds – but none of us could put a name to them.

What struck me most was the quiet all day – despite being just a short drive from Saint John. I love it when you feel surrounded by nature and far from humanity – even if you’re not.

Weave through kelp beds close to the Bay of Fundy coastline
Weave through kelp beds close to the Bay of Fundy coastline – and note the clear water
Beautiful cliffs are the  backdrop for our kayaking trip
Beautiful cliffs are the backdrop for our kayaking trip to Black Beach

Lunch with In Step Adventures

We kayaked onto a rocky beach just past Little Musquash. After pulling the kayaks up some distance – even though the tide was falling (a habit of mine), we hiked on a rough trail, clambering over rocks to a picnic spot overlooking the cliffs.

At the start of the kayaking trip to Black Beach Marguerite handed me a heavy, somewhat large picnic sack with my lunch. Little did I know the treats that lay inside.

First, there’s the aesthetically pleasing tablecloth and a cold bottle of homemade lemonade with fresh mint picked from her garden. Then there’s her signature three-part tiffin. Unscrewing the top piece, I discover a sandwich with homemade bread perfectly round to fit in the tin. Not only that, but she had dried and pulverized dulse from Black Harbour on Grand Manan Island, so we got a dose of iodine and vitamins and minerals too.

The grilled vegetable and hummus sandwich was followed by a broccoli salad, fresh cherries, and an addictive fudgy chocolate brownie.

There’s something compelling about eating simple, well-made food outdoors on a cliff with one heck of a backdrop that makes it taste extraordinary.

Homemade bread with finely ground dulse along with hummus and roasted vegetables
Homemade bread with finely ground dulse along with hummus and roasted vegetables
Our three part tiffin tin also contains a broccoli salad, along with a brownie and fresh cherries
Our three-part tiffin tin also contains a broccoli salad, along with a brownie and fresh cherries

Kayaking and untouched coastline along the Bay of Fundy

With the tide in our favour, the afternoon brought fresh discoveries. We slipped into a sea cave – one at a time as it wasn’t large – echoing with the sound and slosh of waves.

We paddled past more cliffs and Marguerite spotted a huge cave in the dark rock – though you had to glance back to see it. With low tide approaching quickly, exploring it by kayak wasn’t an option.

Continuing along, we followed the shoreline toward Gooseberry Cove and then around Western Head, where we could see across to the red-and-white Musquash Head Lighthouse. From there we kayaked towards Musquash Island, hoping to see some seals, but none showed up.

I savoured the final stretch of our kayaking trip to Black Beach. Living in Calgary, I miss ocean kayaking, so spending a full day on the Bay of Fundy felt like such a treat. The beach soon came into view, and within about 20 minutes we were landing on shore. I don’t think we paddled more than about 12 kilometres – but the day was meant to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace and it most certainly was.

Little did I know when we landed on Black Beach – a unique beach made of black sand, caused by local graphite deposits, that the day was far from over. Marguerite’s signature charcuterie plate would be yet another highlight – after carrying the kayaks to the cars and a refreshing dip in the Bay of Fundy.

Off to explore a small cave while kayaking to Black Beach
Off to explore a small cave while kayaking to Black Beach
Weave through kelp beds close to the Bay of Fundy coastline
Kayak past pocket beaches and beautiful rocks in a variety of colours
This big cave we saw kayaking from Chance Harbour to Black Beach was inaccessible at low tide
This big cave we saw kayaking from Chance Harbour to Black Beach was inaccessible at low tide
Fantastic conditions kayaking in the afternoon towards Black Beach
Fantastic conditions kayaking in the afternoon towards Black Beach
Kayaking to Musquash Island on route to Black Beach
Heading for Musquash Island to look for seals

In Step Adventure’s signature ending – charcuterie and a flight of cider and/or beer

Black Beach is a unique beach made of black sand, caused by the graphite deposits around the beach. The stunning views make for a perfect afternoon of relaxation

Just when I thought the day couldn’t get any better, Marguerite set out her signature end-of-day spread: a charcuterie board piled with cheeses, meats, crackers, and fruit, paired with a flight of local beers and cider. It was such a thoughtful way to end a day on the water, celebrating not just the paddling, but the beautiful region of New Brunswick itself.

I felt an immense sense of gratitude sitting on a mat, tired and salty from the day, sipping a crisp local cider. This was way more than just a kayak outing. It was a slow, intimate way to experience the Bay of Fundy, shaped by the tides and seasoned with local food, stories, and knowledge. Kudos to Marguerite for making unforgettable memories.

Marguerite of In Step Adventures with her signature charcuterie board - a great way to end my kayaking trip to Black Beach
Marguerite of In Step Adventures with her signature charcuterie board
There are even fresh flowers to accompany my flight of cider and charcuterie
There are even fresh flowers to accompany my flight of cider and charcuterie

Tips for kayaking Chance Harbour to Black Beach

  • Expect a full day: This is a proper kayaking adventure, not a quick paddle. Plan to be on the water for several hours, with stops along the way.
  • Bring layers: The Bay of Fundy is notoriously unpredictable. Even on a sunny day, the wind off the water can be chilly. Pack a wind-proof coat and a raincoat.
  • Wear water shoes: You’ll be in and out of your kayak on rocky shores so sturdy water shoes that can get wet are a must. You might want a pair of runners to navigate the trail to the cliff top at lunch time.
  • Pack light, but don’t forget a dry bag: Marguerite provides a good-sized dry bag for your extra clothes and camera. I wish I’d brought an easy to access small case for my phone.
  • Be prepared for wildlife: Seals, bald eagles, and seabirds are common sights kayaking to Black Beach. If you’re lucky, you might even spot porpoises or a whale.
  • Book ahead: In Step Adventures runs small tours, so spots fill quickly.
Marguerite suggesting I try sea lettuce but I am not a fan
Marguerite suggesting I try sea lettuce but I am not a fan

Best time to enjoy the Chance Harbour to Black Beach kayaking experience

Marguerite offers the Chance Harbour to Black Beach kayaking adventure from mid-May until mid-October, though trips are always subject to weather.

I hit a postcard-worthy day for kayaking – with blue skies, sunshine, and mostly calm water. It was a 10/10 experience, especially with a dip in the Bay of Fundy post kayaking and the fabulous charcuterie plate. I was a guest of Tourism New Brunswick – and will forever be thankful to Neil for thinking this kayaking trip would be a great fit. It most certainly was!

If you kayak to Black Beach in the summer, you will be able to enjoy a dip in the Bay of Fundy
If you’re kayaking to Black Beach in summe you’ w’ill be able to enjoy a dip in the Bay of Fundy
We're all smiles after our refreshing dip in the Bay of Fundy
Me, Marguerite and Walt are all smiles after our refreshing dip in the Bay of Fundy

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Kayaking with In Step Adventures from Chance Harbour to Black Beach along the Bay of Fundy

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