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Our First View Of Pine Point Rapids

Nordic Skiing in Whiteshell Provincial Park, Manitoba

Who heads to Whiteshell Provincial Park in the depths of winter to go Nordic skiing in a place that’s not well known outside of Manitoba? That would be me and my husband John who’s game for almost all of my adventures though I’m not sure he would have booked this trip on his own.

Unfortunately the day did not start well. It was blustery and snowy when we left Winnipeg. Road conditions were the pits with the Trans-Canada Highway down to one lane for miles. The outside temperature was a cool -18°C and that was without the windchill. The thought of Nordic skiing in Whiteshell Provincial Park was less and less appealing until the sun made an appearance about an hour into the drive.

The Trans-Canada Highway under less than ideal conditions heading east out of Winnipeg
The Trans-Canada Highway under less than ideal conditions heading east out of Winnipeg

Where is Whiteshell Provincial Park?

It’s about 150 kilometres to Whiteshell Provincial Park from Winnipeg. Its eastern border is the Manitoba-Ontario provincial boundary line. Most of its 2,729 square kilometres sits north of the Trans-Canada Highway.

It’s been called the Jewel of Manitoba’s Parks, probably because of its location in the rugged Precambrian Shield. This is an area of rock rather than prairie – dotted with rivers and lakes.

Fortunately, an hour into the drive, the skies cleared and the sun started to shine. Our moods brightened too.

No longer did I have a death grip on the handle of our car door – a Ford Escort with bald ass tires. For the first hour I’d felt like we could get sucked into a snow bank or worse – into the path of a transport truck.

Blue skies and sunshine greeted us an hour into the drive
Blue skies and sunshine greeted us an hour into the drive

Cross-country skiing in Whiteshell Provincial Park

Because Whiteshell Provincial Park is so big we had decided to concentrate on just a few trails. Sloan Cathcart, a Senior Park Interpreter for Manitoba Conservation – had suggested some of the best trails to ski. And so we followed his advice.

I should tell you that we were THE ONLY people cross country skiing last weekend. Mind you, the park is known for its snowmobile trails and it seems that snowmobilers are not deterred by cold in any way shape or form.

The Alf Hole – Goose Sanctuary Loop in Whiteshell Provincial Park

The first trail we skied was the seven kilometre Alf Hole – Goose Sanctuary Loop. It took us through rolling countryside, crisscrossed with some of the most unusual animal tracks either of us had ever seen. It appeared that a good sized animal jumped and then they lay down or….?  We’re still puzzling over what it was – and it didn’t look like deer tracks to us.

The Alf Hole Trail was rated as intermediate. Once you left the parking lot you had the sense of really being in the wilderness – though a very different one than either of us was used to.

The ONLY downside to the trail was that for roughly a kilometre you could hear the snowmobiles off in the distance. But the rest of the trail was great; we particularly liked seeing the different types of trees and vegetation.

Lovely rolling countryside in Whiteshell Provincial Park
Lovely rolling countryside in Whiteshell Provincial Park
John skiing the Alf Hole - Goose Sanctuary trails in Whiteshell Provincial Park
John skiing the Alf Hole – Goose Sanctuary trails in Whiteshell Provincial Park
Track set trails with a little fresh snow on top
Track-set trails with a little fresh snow on top
Wonderful sense of space as we look out to Jean Lake in Whiteshell Provincial Park
Wonderful sense of space as we look out to Jean Lake
A shelter at Jean Lake with firewood supplied in Whiteshell Provincial Park
A shelter at Jean Lake with firewood supplied
Map of the trail on the warming hut
Map of the trail on the warming hut

Cross-country skiing on the Pine Points Rapid Trail

We started by skiing the straightforward 2.4 kilometre section to Pine Point Rapids. There’s a warming hut there if it’s a particularly cold day but we were happy just to check out the rapids from various angles.

In the summer this is a very popular spot.

Map of the Pine Points Rapid Trail
Map of the Pine Points Rapid Trail
The start of the Pine Point Rapids Trail
The start of the Pine Point Rapids Trail
Broken trees - evidence of the fierce 2007 windstorm
Broken trees – evidence of the fierce 2007 windstorm
Who can tell me who made these monster tracks in the snow?
Who can tell me who made these monster tracks in the snow?
Our first view of Pine Point Rapids
Our first view of Pine Point Rapids
Pine Point Rapids are small but very beautiful in the winter
Pine Point Rapids are small but very beautiful in the winter
Flat, smooth rocks at the bottom of the rapids in Whiteshell Provincial Park
Flat, smooth rocks at the bottom of the rapids

The return initially took us along the Whiteshell River before heading back into the woods. It was much slower going as the snow was deep and there were a lot of downed trees which took some careful balancing to get over – at least for us as we didn’t want to take our skis off.

Beautiful late afternoon reflection on the Whiteshell River in Whiteshell Provincial Park
Beautiful late afternoon reflection on the Whiteshell River
At the bend in the river we head back into the woods
At the bend in the river we head back into the woods
Big outcrop and trees on the return in Whiteshell Provincial Park
Big outcrop and trees on the return

All told this trail took us about 90 minutes to ski with plenty of time for photos. By the time we were finished the sun was beginning to set but we had a few more surprises left in the day.

On the way back to Winnipeg we crested a road – and down a few hundred metres was a wolf – my first glimpse of one EVER in the wild. He quickly darted into the trees but we still got a few peekaboo views of him (her). Absolutely marvelous.

"My first sighting of a wolf in the wild in Whiteshell Provincial Park
My first sighting of a wolf in the wild

And to finish off the day we were treated to a magnificent prairie sunset.

A prairie sunset
A prairie sunset – a great end to a day of skiing in Whiteshell Provincial Park

What should know about cross-country skiing in Whiteshell Provincial Park

A park pass is required. The cost is $4 though it’s a bit of a pain to get hold of unless you’re a local.

Many of the Canadian Tire and Walmart stores in the Winnipeg area sell the pass. The Parks office sells passes but its closed on the weekend. In Falcon Lake you can purchase passes at Falcon Beach Auto or Lumber Building Supplies. I think they need an easier system in place.

Bring your own cross country ski equipment. There is nothing for miles. You can rent skis at MEC (Mountain Equipment Co-Op) in Winnipeg too.

For more information on Whiteshell Provincial Park, visit their website.

Further reading on things to do in Manitoba

Click on the photo to bookmark to your Pinterest boards.

Nordic skiing in Whiteshell Provincial Park, Manitoba

 

 

Leigh McAdam

Leigh McAdam is a Calgary based writer, author, photographer and social media enthusiast with over 61,000 followers. Her blog: HikeBikeTravel is frequently cited as one of the top travel and outdoor adventure blogs in Canada.

Author of Discover Canada: 100 Inspiring Outdoor Adventures
Co-author of 125 Nature Hot Spots in Alberta

This Post Has 23 Comments

  1. I would! It looks like a wonderful place to go cross country skiing.

    For some reason, I had in my mind that polar bears live in Manitoba. You don’t have to worry about them at all when out and about in the park?

    1. @Jennifer You’re the second person in minutes who has suggested polar bears. Manitoba is famous for polar bears but they are much further north. But I sure am curious about what those tracks are.

  2. That is so amazing that you got to see a wolf in the wild! It sounds like a great day after the dangerous driving conditions, that is always so stressful.

  3. I am going to guess snowshoe hare on the first set of tracks and a moose on the second. Very cool that you got to see a wolf, and pretty decent shot. I have seen two wolves myself, and they were both from a car in Minnesota. I may have seen a third in Northern Wisconsin earlier this year, but it took off before I could identify it. Could have been a large coyote.

    The ski trails look great. I sometimes go to places skiing that are way out of the way just to break new ground even if it means bypassing tried and tested favorites. Those favorites aren’t going anywhere.

    1. @Ted The fellow who gave me info on what trails to ski – Sloan – has this to say about the tracks; I believe they are white-tailed deer tracks – when the snow starts to get this deep, they tend to bounce along rather than walk. The bigger track is where it would have either bedded down or kicked up the snow to get to grasses below to eat. In the winter, deer tend to follow each other’s steps, so it was probably a couple of deer in the same tracks that make them bigger.

  4. Your adventures even in harsh conditions and bad starts always amaze me. Glad everything turned out well. Those rapids are beautiful. I’ve never tried cross-country only downhill skiing but it looks like a great way to see the winter scenery. I’d be happy to spot any wildlife but a wolf is pretty awesome! Hope the book is coming along well.

    1. Hi Mary,

      We felt very lucky that the weather turned in our favour. And seeing a wolf – even for a short time was a real thrill. The book is moving along – slowly but surely – and being written in my spare time.

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