Surviving Eleven Kilometers of Terror on Highway 20
I have a confession to make. I am terrified of driving on roads with severe drop-offs. I am a terrible back seat driver under these circumstances, though John would say that’s not the only time. Sometimes I think it would be best if I was blindfolded. So it was with great trepidation that I agreed to drive from Atnarko Lodge on beautiful Charlotte Lake to Bella Coola – a distance of about 105 kilometres as the crow flies.
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The actual Highway 20 takes you 452 kilometres from Williams Lake in the Cariboo region of BC to Bella Coola on the coast. Once in Bella Coola you can catch a ferry to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island.
The gnarly bit of highway in question is the dirt portion west of Anahim Lake. In total there are about 60 kilometres of hard packed dirt highway. Not all of it is bad or even scary.
But there are 11 kilometres of terror where any driving mistake would be most unfortunate.
Highway 20 in BC has an interesting history
For years the residents of Bella Coola wanted a road. They were cut off from the rest of BC except by boat. The government hummed and hawed and did nothing.
By 1952 the locals were beyond fed up. A number of them got together, raised a small amount of money, donated dynamite, loaned equipment and with the help of volunteers and a fellow named Elijah Gurr blazed the best route through.
Before they started they sent a telegram to the Department of Public Works in Victoria saying:
This is to advise you that we are going to immediately start building the road from Anahim Lake to Bella Coola.
The Hill on Highway 20
The major obstacle to the road building is what is referred to as The Hill. It descends 1,666 metres (5,465 feet) from Heckman Pass to the ocean.
Unbelievably in just one year the two cats (earth moving equipment) operating from opposite sides were less than a mile apart. And on September 26, 1953 the road was completed and called The Freedom Road.
In places – though I’m not sure if it still holds true today, the grade was 18%. There were single lane sections and gravel switchbacks. The government stepped in shortly after completion and helped with improvements. I can’t even imagine how nasty the road would have been earlier on.
It’s my vivid imagination and fear of going over the cliffs or being struck by a loose boulder that causes me great terror.
You too will survive 11 kilometres of terror
But in the end I survived. I will never say that I enjoyed it but I can say that I’m VERY GLAD I did it. In hindsight I wish we’d had an extra day to explore the Bella Coola area.
There’s a big change in the climate and vegetation from top to bottom and it would have been fun to see some of the monster big trees at the lower elevation. Plus I understand you can go on float trips out of Bella Coola – or grizzly bear watching during the salmon run.
Of course what goes down must go up, so I did think about the return drive whilst still trying to enjoy the Bella Coola Valley.
Surprisingly I found it to be much easier though perhaps that was because we had the road to ourselves. We didn’t have to hug the corners and pull over beside a drop off as a transport truck came around the corner.
How many of you are fearful drivers or passengers on roads like this?
I can say that John loved every minute of it.
Further reading about things to do in BC
- A Boat Tour With a View: Princess Louisa Inlet, BC
- 20 Things to Do Along Highway 20 in British Columbia
- Rainbow Range Trail, Tweedsmuir Provincial Park
- 9 Best Things to Do in Sidney, BC
- Two Standout Hikes in Merritt, BC
Click on the photo to bookmark to your Pinterest boards.
That must have been quite a relief to be back on level pavement. Those photos of the road look terrifying. My dad always liked taking us on road like that. As a kid, I was excited (and a little afraid) — it’s all a lot scarier now. Well worth the terror, however.
Oh wow I don’t think I could do that road. I’m such a prairie girl, any mountain road seems intimidating. I did drive my grandparents to Kelowna to visit family this summer. They brought me along to drive because my grandmother hates driving in the mountains – she had her eyes closed for most of the trip. I actually did okay, but I think that’s because we stuck to the major highways (Yellowhead on the way there, TransCanada coming home). I definitely couldn’t do anything like Highway 20, just seeing that scary section in pictures is making me nervous.
@Alousie It sounds to me like you just need some practice and some really great music to take your mind away from the fear!
What a fascinating story – I would be terrified to make the road – probably not to drive on it now though – it sounds (and looks) beautiful!
Have a great weekend!
@Becca Definitely worth the drive despite the headline of my blog.
Hi, I am nervous being a car passenger at heights, especially on those big bridges in Italy that span whole valleys, and then the trucks and other cars are all driving like maniacs. Whenever a truck tore past us I would have to close my eyes – thank goodness I wasn’t driving. Also driving up and up behind San Remo into the Ligurian Hills with steep drop offs and hair pin blind corners left my hands sweating. But I would not give up doing these things.
These photos are beautiful – Both Budget Hubby and I just love Canada. We took a huge RV (the hugeness was not our choice – it was a cheap take what you get deal)from Vancouver along the USA border then up to Banff to Jasper, over to Vancouver Island and back to Vancouver. It took three weeks and we have never seen such beautiful scenery on such a grand scale anywhere.
Your photos bring it all back – but I have not been on those particular roads.
Completely understand what you mean. The only driver I trust on roads like that is myself!
Kudos for making through the drive, Leigh! I will never drive on a scary looking road that like that. I’m a bad backseat driver which drives my husband mad. I would be holding on for dear life and pressing my imaginary brakes which would be a shame since I’d miss the views. Hope you’re having a wonderful time on your adventure.
Wow- this drive looks terrifying! I get freaked out at small declines, I can’t imagine doing this!! you are brave!
@Jade Fortunately it”s a road that doesn’t see a lot of traffic.
I was smiling as I read your post because it sounded so much like me! I think my husband was a race car driver in another life 🙂 At least the drive was beautiful.
@Debbie John and I often disagree about driving – too close,too fast. I try to be quiet but I just can’t help myself.
The photos are stunning and probably worth the agony of the drive! I am a horrible passenger on roads like that – just ask my husband! 🙂 Hope you’re enjoying your climb at Lake O’Hara!
@Lisa Another husband/wife combo where the husband has no problem and the wife does. Ahh but really I am glad we did it.
Good heavens! To think that I thought driving up over Foley Mountain in Nova Scotia was bad. There is no way I would have been the driver, and if I had been in the passenger seat I would have been blindfolded! The scenery is spectacular, though.
You’re becoming a TV star? 🙂
@Nancie This is where the IPOD comes in handy. Look into the center of the car and focus on music.
Awesome shots! I am glad that you made it, so that I could enjoy every moment of it. I love to back seat and enjoy the views during such trips though I am sure I would make a very bad driver for the same!
@Arti In that case Arti I will never drive with you!
Oh, man… I’d rather be blindfolded too in these roads. Aaargh! No way will Michael and our son let me on the wheel of the car for this ride ;-D
@Marlys I’ll order the blindfolds for both of us then.
Let me at that road !!!
@Fink – Finally someone who’s keen to drive the road!! Great news.
Terrifying! You are brave. What beautiful photos.
@Roberta I’m not brave – just noisy.
Wow, I would have been a nervous wreck! Your pics remind me of driving on the South Island of New Zealand. No guardrails, narrow roads, stick shift that you shift with your left hand AND driving on the left side right next to the huge cliffs. So nerve wracking but looks like we both made it out alive!
@Diane Not only did I make it our alive I got a chance to see Bella Coola – and for that the road was worth driving.
I am a squeeze-my-eyes-shut-start-humming-to-myself such passenger on these types of roads. And Joel is the sainted driver who approaches them without a whimper (that’s my role to the right of him). I have such vivid memories of similar roads: one along Crete’s southern coast where an oncoming car or too close to the edge would have put us in the sea after a significant drop off a cliff, another also on the southern coast that stressed me so badly that I had a headache at the end, and in our own state, Hart’s Pass in the Methow. Glad I’ve done them all but in no rush to return.
@Jackie Interesting how we all handle dangerous roads so differently. There are places on this road where I would have a hard time not shaking from fright. But then John wondered what my problem was!
Wow – Don’t think I could hold my breath that long. Looks scary.
@Mette I bet there are roads in Italy that would cause the same reaction for me!! Scary but worth it.
That’s a really scary road to be sure, but you should come back and try it again in the winter. You’ll never drive a car again.
@Steve Even with chains could you imagine driving this road in winter?? And to think transport trucks do it all the time. I hope those guys are paid well.
Wow, that looks even worse than a road we were on in Crete! And you really bring it up close and personal here!
@Susan That’s the second time Crete has been mentioned in the comments which makes me wonder about ever getting in a car there…
I would be a white knuckle passenger too! Not only is it steep and with a drop off but it’s of gravel, which I don’t like at all. Thank goodness it was your husband at the wheel and you weren’t on a bus! Sounds like you are having an amazing summer Leigh!!
@Gillian It has been such a busy summer – with so many new sights, yet within driving distance from Calgary – at least for a 2 week trip. Now I have two weeks to catch up while you count down to Japan. So glad to hear I’m not the only white knuckle passenger.