In early August one summer I did a three day backpacking trip to Baker Lake in Banff National Park with my brother and 13-year-old niece – neither of whom had ever backpacked before. I’d chosen the hike to Baker Lake in Banff because it was rated as easy.
But frankly, anytime you’re carrying a heavy backpack up into the mountains for four plus hours it’s not that easy. But it is definitely worthwhile!
Our plan was to backpack 13.2 kilometres to the Baker Lake Campground on the first day. On day two we’d do the Skoki loop hike, a distance of about 15 km to include the trail to Red Deer Lakes, Skoki Lodge, perhaps Merlin Lake and then return to the Baker Lake Campground by crossing Deception Pass. On the third day we’d just hike out.
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Hiking or backpacking to Baker Lake, Banff summary
Distance: 13.2 km (8.2 miles) one way to the Baker Lake campground.
Elevation gain: Approximately 700 m or 2,297 feet
Difficulty: Moderate to Baker Lake Campground
Time needed: 3.5 – 5 hours one way
Dogs: Permitted but must on a leash.
Best time to hike: July to September but later in the season is better for fewer bugs.
Permit: You will need a Parks Canada pass to be in Banff National Park. There are several options, with the Discovery Pass the best one if you’re planning to spend time in any of the 80 plus parks over the coming year.
Reservations: Book backcountry reservations in Banff National Park, well in advance here – starting on January 29, 2024 at 8 AM MT. You can also try calling 1-877-RESERVE or go to the Visitor Center in Banff or Lake Louise if you want to try for a last minute permit.
Bears: Carry a can of bear spray that is accessible. Keep it in a bear spray holster, so you don’t set it off accidentally. You can also rent bear spray in Lake Louise at Wilson Mountain Sports in the Samson Mall. Be prepared to fork out between $40 and $50 a can if you buy it – and it cannot be taken on planes.
Map: The map for the hike is Gem Trek Lake Louise and Yoho. Another option is to use Organic Maps – an offline hiking app.
Recommended reading: Camping for Beginners – What You Need to Know
Didn’t get the campsite reservation you were looking for? Don’t give up. Be the first to know when there is a campsite cancellation for your desired trip dates by visiting Schnerp.
Where is the trailhead to Baker Lake and the Skoki area located?
The trailhead to Baker Lake in the Skoki area is very conveniently located off Whitehorn Road at the Fish Creek Parking Area, just two kilometres up from the Trans-Canada Highway on the way to the Lake Louise ski area.
There’s lots of free parking. Lake Louise Village is just a few minutes away too – which was a good thing as we’d forgotten to stash a bottle of wine in our packs and so were able to pick one up – at inflated prices mind you.
Where to stay the night before the backpacking trip
The trailhead is close to Lake Louise. There are several campgrounds in the Lake Louise area, but reserve well in advance.
If you’d like one last shower and comfortable bed, check out Baker Creek by Basecamp, the Lake Louise Hostel or the Lake Louise Inn.
Baker Lake in Banff backpacking trip description
The first 3.8 km up the dirt fire road – which is extremely steep at times – isn’t very interesting – but at least on the return it allows for a fast descent.
At the end of the road you pop out near Temple Lodge. Look up the ski hill and on the left there’s a trail that re-enters the woods.
It’s signed to Skoki Lodge. Follow it and once you’ve put another 3 km behind you, the views start to open up.
Now you’re into sub-alpine meadows – with patches of wildflowers around – plus some unusual looking mushrooms.
This is grizzly bear country
Near the Halfway Hut at the 7.1 km mark there are signs warning of bears in the area. We met a family of four – with a can of bear-spray out and ready to go – who had seen a grizzly frolicking in the stream just five minutes earlier.
We missed it. Maybe it was my singing that scared it off. Still we pulled out our bear spray and bear bangers just in case.
Read: Tips for Staying Safe in Bear Country
Next up is the aptly name Boulder Pass. Fortunately it can be dispatched with quickly. The grade to the pass is very reasonable.
Beautiful Ptarmigan Lake greets you at the top of the pass. From the lake the hiking for the next 4.5 kilometres – all the way to the Baker Lake Campground is sublime.
Baker Lake Campground
The Baker Lake campground in Banff National Park is at the far end of Baker Lake (figures). Although the setting is pretty, the campground needs some work as it is showing signs of heavy use. There were tent pads – but dusty ones – that would be even worse after a rain.
And they were packed in close together. I backpacked into the wilderness to get away from civilization – and don’t like being so close to my neighbour that I can hear them snoring.
The outhouses are new but considering there can be up to twenty people a night at the campground – at $9.80 a person plus a reservation fee – I think Banff National Park should be doing something to improve the campground.
There are only four picnic tables – built with awkwardly spaced benches – so you may have to wait to cook your meal.
There is an area where you can hang your food – and that at least is in good shape – but it’s a long hike away from the food area and the camping area. Even in 2023, you will need a waterproof bag preferably to hang all your food. (I pack my tent in a waterproof bag and move my food to it when I need to hang it.)
Baker Lake is a stunner
Despite my complaining – Baker Lake really is drop-dead gorgeous – especially first thing in the morning when the lake doesn’t have so much as a ripple on it.
It’s well worth getting up early to wander around Baker Lake, perhaps drop a line in to catch a fish (permit required), take some pictures, or just to revel in the beauty of the area.
How long does it take to backpack to Baker Lake?
We managed to backpack into Baker Lake in about 4.5 hours. Our tents were set up, and the wine was poured by 5:30 pm.
All was right with our world – except for the bloody deer flies. They did eventually disappear as the temperature dropped but be warned – the Skoki area including Baker Lake has a reputation as having more biting insects that almost any other place in the Rockies.
Late August into September would probably be best if you’re seriously adverse to bugs.
Other hiking options on the Baker Lake backpacking trip
On the hike into Baker Lake, there is the option to visit Hidden Lake. Take a spur trail on your left, 0.2 km past the Halfway Hut. Reach Hidden Lake Campground in 100 metres. Continue through meadows and larch forest for another 1.2 km, climbing 85 m to reach Hidden Lake, located in alpine tundra beneath Mt. Ptarmigan, Pika and Richardson Peaks.
A trip to Redoubt Lake from Boulder Pass is another option. It’s located 0.9 km from the pass. Pick up the trail to it just east of the pass. Head through boulders south of Ptarmigan Lake. Hike around Redoubt Lake by taking a rough track on the west side. Retrace your steps.
There is also the option to camp at the Red Deer Lakes Campground. It’s an easy 5.5 km beyond Baker Lake. Much of the hike is to the east of Fossil Mountain in a large meadow.
From Red Deer Lakes you could then do the easy hike over Jones Pass and continue 4.9 km to reach Merlin Meadows Campground.
You can also hike the Sawback Trail – staying at Baker Lake Campground on the first night in or the last night out. We loved this backpacking trip and were happy to finish camping at Baker Lake in Banff.
Location map hiking/backpacking to Baker Lake in Banff
- Click on the three dots in the top right hand corner to email a copy of the map.
A few things to take with you backpacking to Baker Lake
Compression sacks for your bulky items are hugely helpful. I always use them for my sleeping bag.
Compeed for blisters is way better for fast healing than anything else I’ve used.
Water purification tablets or a water filter are important items to include.
For wildflower fans, you might enjoy a copy of Popular Wildflowers of Alberta and the Canadian Rockies.
To make your night more comfortable, consider taking a lightweight camp pillow.
Should any of your gear break, you’ll be happy to have some gear-aid patches with you.
Don’t forget to pack a headlamp.
More hiking – backpacking trips in Alberta you’ll probably love
- Tonquin Valley Hiking Guide – What You Need to Know
- Sunset Pass & Sunset Lookout Hike – Icefields Parkway
- Fish Lakes Hike via North Molar Pass
- The Hike to Three Isle Lake & South Kananaskis Pass
- Tombstone Lakes Hike & Camping Trip in Kananaskis
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