Mulegé, Mexico is one of those under-the-radar places that surprises you in the best way. It’s a peaceful low-key town with plenty of colour and character – and best of all it doesn’t feel the least bit touristy.

You’ll find it on the east coast of the Baja Peninsula, in the state of Baja California Sur. If you’re flying in, Loreto is the closest international airport, with car rentals available on-site. From Loreto it’s a scenic two-hour, 140-kilometre drive to Mulegé with lots of glimpses of the beautiful beaches lining Bahía Concepción.

Mulegé is small and walkable, but without a car you can’t take advantage of all the possibilities – whether that’s visiting nearby beaches or taking a half day boat tour. No matter how you get to Mulegé whether by bus or by car, what awaits is a laid-back Baja town with a colourful core, friendly locals, and some of the most beautiful desert-meets-ocean scenery I’ve found anywhere on the planet.

Thank you to  Visit Baja California Sur and Loreto BCS Tourism for hosting my trip.

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Where is Mulegé, Mexico

You’ll find Mulegé on the east coast of the Baja Peninsula, overlooking the Sea of Cortez, also called the Gulf of California. The town is in Baja California Sur, one of 31 Mexican states, not including the Federal District of Mexico City.

The closest international airport is in Loreto, about 140 km to the south.

Other cities within driving distance include the following:

• Cabos San Lucas – 8.5 hours
• Todos Santos – 7.25 hours
• La Paz – 6.3 hours
• San Felipe – 8 hours
• Mexicali – 10 hours
• Tijuana – 12.5 hours

How to get to Mulegé Mexico from Loreto

Its approximately 140 kilometres between Mulegé and Loreto – and the easiest way to get there on your own terms is to do the pretty drive. It will take you about two hours, with one police stop along the way where you must produce your passport. Once in Mulegé you’ll have much more flexibility with a car, especially if you want to visit any of the nearby beaches.

You can rent cars at the Loreto Airport if you are 21 years of age or older. Most of the major players like Enterprise, Alamo and Hertz are located at the airport, but it’s a good idea to reserve. You can also rent cars through Booking.com and Expedia.com. Be sure to purchase Mexican car insurance as “Mexican law requires all foreign vehicles to have liability insurance from a Mexican-licensed provider. “

On a side note, if you drive down from Canada or the United States, be aware that you need to add Mexico specific car insurance for the state(s) you will be visiting.

It’s also easy to take a bus to Mulegé from many towns and cities in Baja California Sur and Baja California including Loreto, La Paz, Santa Rosalía, and Tijuana. I have found the best way to book buses is through the Rome2Rio website.

What is the best time of year to visit Mulegé?

In Mulegé, summers are hot (34 – 36C), while winters are comfortably cool in the 22 – 24C range. Winds are common in winter – and even in April when I visited. Carry a fleece or sweater as the temperature drops significantly once the sun goes down. By mid-April it starts to heat up again and it’s less busy than winter.

According to locals, November is a wonderful time to visit because it’s not too hot and the water temperature is still warm enough for swimming.

The Bahia de Concepcion is warmer than the Sea of Cortez, so I was able to swim on our half day boat tour without getting cold. If you were to swim in the Sea of Cortez, you wouldn’t last long without a thick wetsuit from December until early April.

January to March is prime time for travel to Mulegé, largely because tourists are trying to beat the winter blues elsewhere in North America. It also coincides with whale watching season – a huge draw, especially if you want to see blue whales, the largest mammal on the planet.

Can you get around Mulegé without a car?

You won’t find any local bus service in Mulegé but it’s a very walkable town, at least if it’s not done in the heat of the day. There are also taxis that hang out out around the town square but reportedly you can’t count on them.

I’d suggest renting a car for maximum flexibility.

Where to stay in Mulegé Mexico

Hotel Serenidad

I stayed at the Hotel Serenidad a short distance out of town. As one of the first fly-in fishing lodges, it attracted the likes of John Wayne. Past visitors speak to the fantastic hospitality, the Saturday night pig roast, and the margaritas.

Today the rooms are a tad tired, but the pool still sparkles and the public areas ooze history. There’s a lively bar; margaritas are large with a generous amount of alcohol – and there are enough palm trees that you’ll always find somewhere shady to sit. Breakfast is very good and the people running the hotel are friendly.

Historico Las Casitas

For an in-town option stay at 50-year-old Historico Las Casitas. Rooms are clean and simple, and the ambiance provided by a colourful courtyard filled with flowers and the sound of birds is relaxing. Also, the long-time restaurant is just a few steps away.

The best way to get in touch with the friendly owner, Javier Aguiar – who as an aside seems to know literally everyone in town, is to either email him at lascasitas1962[at]hotmail.com or call/send a message through either Facebook or WhatsApp at +52 615 153 0019.

Where to eat in Mulegé

We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Las Casitas Restaurant including a garlic soup to start and a grown-up version of rice pudding in cake form to finish. Dining can be inside or out – and the atmosphere with plants, trinkets, fountains, and colourful tablecloths, makes eating here an experience. If you eat outside the birds will keep you entertained.

For pizza and craft beer visit the Mulege Brewing Company, located on the highway as you drive north towards Mulege. You can’t miss it as there’s a yellow submarine in front of it.

For inexpensive local fare head to the informal restaurants in Plaza Santa Lucia. In the back corner there’s a great place to get tacos and quesadillas.

Of note is the ice cream shop in the plaza called Cool Scoops. Trust me when I say you will eat one of the most exceptional ice cream cones of your life here. It’s smooth and creamy and made only with milk, cream, sugar, and natural flavours. I had the passionfruit but would happily try any of the other flavours including pistachio, cafe espresso, strawberry, and cherry.

Is Mulegé, Mexico safe?

If you read the headline on the Government of Canada travel advisory website, you would probably give Mexico a pass. But you need to read the fine print and avoid certain regions in particular – and Baja California Sur is not on that list.

One area that is very safe is the Mulegé – Loreto corridor. I asked our host point blank if there was anything we should know. Her response – “Mulege and Loreto are very safe. You have no worries at all.” She says “problems arise in certain resort cities like Cancun when people try to buy drugs.”

I would say use common sense like you would in any city in Canada. Don’t show signs of affluence and remain vigilant in airports and bus stations to avoid a purse snatching. The chances of that happening in this area ARE VERY SLIM. Our guide repeatedly said you could forget your cellphone on a table and find it there an hour later.

Location map of things to do in Mulegé, Mexico

Top things to do in Mulegé Mexico

1. Check out the Museo Comunitario de Mulegé

Located at the top of the hill not far from the Mulege town centre is the Museo Comunitario de Mulegé. It’s in a beautiful white building built in 1907. Once the local prison, but thanks to Mulegé’s desert-like landscape and remote location, the male prisoners were allowed to leave daily and work. They and the guards would return at night after the warden sounded a conch shell at 6 PM.

The museum houses a small collection of artifacts including the conch shell. The handsome building is worth a wander for its architecture. Entry is by donation.

2. Do the Las Trajineras tour on the Mulegé River

If you have an hour or so, especially near sunset, take the Trajineras Mulege river tour. It starts from under the bridge in Mulegé and travels for approximately 7 kilometres to reach the Gulf of California. At the turn around point enjoy the view over to the Faro de Mulegé – an abandoned lighthouse. You’ll also see a lot of flying pelicans that hang out on some rocks just a little further out.

We did the trip late in the afternoon but not quite late enough to catch the sunset. Still, it’s a peaceful, relaxing outing and interesting to see the bird life and homes along the river.

The colourful boats can hold up to 14 people. We only had six onboard which was nice for moving around. The cost is 250 pesos per adult and 100 pesos per child. Kids under 5 are free. Reservations are recommended, but you can also drive up and see if they have last minute availability.

3. Visit the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé

Visit the striking stone hilltop Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé (established in 1705, completed in 1766, and abandoned by 1828) for fantastic views and photos of the mission and river valley.

If the church is open you’re allowed to enter but we missed our opportunity by five minutes. The grounds are worth wandering and be sure to climb to the high point behind the mission.

4. Where to get the best views in Mulegé Mexico

There are two places to get great views in Mulegé. One is located behind the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé and the other is looking out from the Museo Comunitario de Mulegé.

I like the one near the mission best as your eye follows the river to the distant hills in one direction and into town in the other. You’ll need to climb some stone steps to get here from behind the mission.

5. Visit Bahía Concepción‘s beaches

For many people a visit to the beaches along Bahia Conception – whether for a day or a week is the highlight of a visit to the Mulegé area in Mexico.

There are nine beaches you pass on the drive from Loreto to Mulegé that are accessible by car. Some beaches are small and close to the highway – and therefore noisier, but many are far enough away from the noise as to be very appealing. Some beaches come with palapas you can rent for a day, a week or even a month. But others like Playa el Requeson with its lone spit of sand is perfect for a few hours.

Reportedly the best beaches for camping are Santispac and El Coyote.

6. Take a boat tour of Bahía Concepción with snorkeling and freshly-caught lunch

The El Burra Baja Tour from El Burro Beach outside of Mulege was one of my favourite experiences over the course of a week. At about 9:30 AM we set off on a tour of the nearby islands via a roomy pontoon boat. Over a few hours we visited several islands, all the while watching the blue-footed boobies, pelicans, gulls, and cormorants.

As it got closer to noon, one of the guides threw on a wetsuit and an extra-long pair of flippers. With a harpoon in hand, he took off in search of a fish for lunch. Meanwhile the rest of us snorkeled and swam around a shipwreck. After 45 minutes of fishing and diving, our guide came up with enough brown clams and massive scallops to generously feed seven people. I believe another boat provided the fish – called madrigal in Spanish and amberjack in English.

We motored off to the not so secret, Secret Cove, and set up chairs in the shade while the two guys got to work making seviche and building a fire to roast the fish. Not only did they do that they put together a beautiful presentation with garnishes that featured a whirl of avocado, hot peppers, and limes.

The lunch was as delicious as it was beautiful. And the beach we were on (see the top picture for this post) was a beauty. From there it was a short boat ride back to the beach but what a half day it had been.

7. Wander the colourful town of Mulegé, Mexico

The centre of Mulegé – the Jardin Corona – is not large but it’s colourful and full of life. There are numerous shops – some where you can bargain, along with small restaurants and bars.

No one is afraid of colour judging by the murals that have brought old walls to new life. Two of my favourite murals are shown below. Reportedly you could have your dog painted for a fee of $50. I’d love to do that especially as my dog Mila is from Tijuana.

8. Visit the San Borjitas Cave paintings

The 7,500-year-old San Borjitas paintings are thought to be the oldest cave paintings in North America. You can visit them on a day trip from Mulegé though you need to book a guide with a good vehicle. (Don’t even think of taking a rental car on this road!)

To reach the caves requires a few hours of driving on a washboard like road, through riverbeds and water. When you finally reach the trailhead after a check in with paperwork at Rancho Las Tinajas, you’ve got a 20-minute walk ahead of you.

Although the trail to the cave is just 700 metres long, it is on uneven ground with some loose scree. It may be hot. And there are prickly plants along the trail along with Hierba de la Flecha or arrow poison plant in English. I’m not sure what part of it is poison, but it can do nasty things to the human body. Touch nothing that you’re unfamiliar with.

I was in awe when I first saw the cave – because of its size. Then I started looking and couldn’t believe how many figures the ceiling 20 feet above me contained. Over 80 human-like figures are painted in black, red and a mix of black and red. If you keep looking, you’ll find deer and fish along with a whole wall full of vulvas – reportedly used(?) in rites of passages for adolescents and/or fertility reasons.

After an hour of peering up at the paintings and checking out a forming stalactite, it was time to return. I think it’s well worth the trip, not only because it can be done in a day, but because it’s a fascinating site that asks more questions than it answers.

For all the logistical details on how to book a tour, read the detailed post on the caves by Off Track Travel.

9. Go birding in and around Mulegé

There are over 400 species of birds to be discovered in Baja California Sur including six or seven endemic bird species .

I saw three of the endemic species including the grey thrasher, Belding’s yellowthroat, and the yellow-footed gull. Ones I missed include the Cape Pygmy owl, gilded flicker, San Lucas robin, Xantus’s hummingbird, and Baird’s junco.

If you love birding, you’d do well to spend some time in the Mulegé, Mexico area, especially with the lush vegetation along the river. One day we saw five frigatebirds at a time swooping down to the river catching food. And I have never seen so many ospreys as I did on the drive to Mulegé.

10. Visit the word sign in Mulegé, Mexico

You only need five minutes to visit the Mulegé sign. The “H” before Mulegé stands for Heroica or heroic in English. The designation was bestowed upon the town for the bravery of its citizens in defending against a U.S. Navy attack during the Mexican – American War in 1847.

The sign is on a smaller road just off Highway 1 as you turn right to head down to the Mulegé River. Be careful walking on the smaller road, as cars move quickly when they turn off the highway.

More reading on places and things to do in Baja California Sur Mexico to visit

• Todos Santos Mexico: A Magical Town To Visit
• 7 Fun & Unusual Things to Do in La Paz, Mexico
• 6 Travel Tips for Cabo San Lucas, Baja California
• Flora Farms (near San Jose del Cabo) for a Mouthwatering Meal
• What to Do in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
• 15 Reasons to go Sea Kayaking in Baja, Mexico

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