Baffin Island Backpacking in Auyuittuq
Our second week of Baffin Island backpacking in Auyuittuq National Park involved retracing our steps from Summit Lake back to the fjord, an hour away by boat from Pangnirtung.
Although we could have done the return trip in about four days, we took a week – with a rest day in the Rock Garden and a slower pace compared to our hike in.
In hindsight I would have chosen to do a Baffin Island backpacking trip called the Auyuittuq Traverse. It starts at Broughton Island, crosses Akshayuk Pass and then you hike back to the start of the trail where the boat drops you off from Pangnirtung so you never have to retrace your steps.
Recommended reading: Packing List for a Remote 2 Week backpacking Trip
A layover day at Summit Lake before the return hike
Everyone in the group except me – because of an exceptionally sore ankle – hiked under sunny skies for about 24 kilometres to catch the view of Mount Asgard – a flat-top cylindrical rock tower that can be seen in the opening shot of the James Bond movie – The Spy Who Loved Me.
I’m sorry to have missed this view but figured it was better to look after myself than not.
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I spent a long day in camp by myself – catching up on laundry, reading and exploring. I did meet two American mountain climbers who hiked in that day with plans to climb a few of the surrounding peaks over the month of July.
They’d shipped all their gear and food up from California ahead of time – by plane and snowmobile – so it was waiting for them at Summit Lake. I’m curious as to what mountains they successfully summited.
On my day in camp I also hiked back on some of the moraines leading to Mount Asgard and wandered around with camera in hand looking for subject material.
Early in the morning on the day we left Summit Lake the sun was out for a short time. Then the weather changed and ended up being one of the more miserable days.
We had rivers to cross again on the return. I couldn’t help marveling at a group of male hikers we ran into – all of whom looked like they had more outside their packs than inside.
The Honeymoon Suite
We spent a few nights in what has been called “The Honeymoon Suite” – in effect a giant rock garden with boulders that were quite literally the size of Mack trucks. It was easy to spend a day exploring the area.
On our second to last day of hiking we climbed the sandy moraine around Crater Lake and stopped for a break at the top. By now the ice had left the lake so four of the gang decided a swim was in order. I think they just wanted to check out their gasp reflex.
After the swimming interlude we continued on – past what looked like sand castles but was ice covered by sand.
The hiking was easy for the last few days and our packs felt like they weighed nothing at all.
Our last night after backpacking on Baffin Island was an interesting one. We know that the winds clocked 110 kilometre an hour in Pangnirtung – so I’m sure we had the odd gust that was close to that. One tent had a set of poles snapped and there were times we could barely stand.
By the end our thoughts were all about hot showers, soft beds, and clean clothes. I’m glad I did the two week Baffin Island backpacking trip in Auyuittuq National Park – and now after a few years out from it, I’d be ready to do something similar.
For more information on Auyuittuq National Park visit their website.
Further reading related to travel in the Arctic
- The Ivvavik National Park Base Camp Experience
- Herschel Island – A Must Do Day Trip From Inuvik
- Backpacking Auyuittuq National Park in Nunavut
- Across the Arctic Circle on Foot on Baffin Island
- 4 Arctic Hikes in Ivvavik National Park
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You’ve done an amazing job sharing the trip with the world through your words and photographs!
Thanks so much Natalie.
Great shots of very spectacular scenery! The waters of Crater Lake are the same green as those I saw at Lake Louise last September.
Thanks Dick. I love those blue lakes seen in alpine environments.
Wow, another great adventure from my hiking hero! Two weeks — amazing! (The longest I did was only 9 days in Kilimanjaro and I felt it was going on forever). You definitely made the right decision to miss the view of Mount Asgard to nurse your ankle. The sceneries on your trail and camps are beyond spectacular. I love all the photos but I couldn’t take my eyes off the Lake Summit reflection shot. I also enjoyed all the beautiful wild vegetations. I have to salute those people who dove into the freezing water- such hardcore!. I wouldn’t be able to take my clothes off in the cold much more jumped into freezing water. Thanks for sharing another great hiking trip. You’re so inspiring.
@Marisol Thank you for your wonderful comment. I was definitely not one of the ones diving in the water. I’m far too wimpy to do that. As much as it’s never fun to miss out on something like a hike, it was the smart thing to do.
Wow. These photos and your story are simply fascinating. It does look cold and desolate up there, but so serene as well. It must be a popular place to hike since you ran into so many groups!
@karen We actually only ran into four groups in two weeks – and one lone female hiker. It’s a hard place and an expensive place to get to.
Wow Leigh, this place is simply stunning, I would love to do this some day, the images are just amazing. I love all the shots esp the one from the tent….that water must have been so amazing and freezing!
thanks for sharing Leigh.
Some of your best photos yet! Awesome stuff
Thanks Fink. It helped that the sun was shining.
Thank you, once again, for taking me somewhere I wouldn’t probably visit (I am not much of a hiker!!!)
One day I’ll find the stamina to start working out to go to places like these.
@Denise Very few people make it up to the Arctic. It was a tough trip but one I’m glad to have done.
I especially like the photo of the mountains reflected in the lake and the beautiful, blue skies of the 4th & 5th photos. Too bad about your sore ankle. Mine’s been giving me trouble for going on 2 years, and I’ve about had it. It’s great that the stream water is pure enough to drink.
@Michele Thanks. My ankle is now feeling infinitely better. I took to hiking with poles this summer to help and I think all the hiking actually speeded up the healing process.
oh WOW I can only but dream of doing a hike like this. AMAZING scenery. GORGEOUS. Thank you for taking us along. I hope your ankle is feeling better. What an amazing trip you have had.
Happy travels.
@Jill There were scenes on this trip that were jaw-droppingly beautiful. And my ankle is feeling much better though I’m sorry to have missed Mount Asgard.
Beautiful photos Leigh. I love seeing how other people have photographed the same trip I’ve been on. It all seems like such a long time ago now 🙁
@Michele I can’t believe how long ago it feels either. It would be interesting to get the best of everyone’s shots and see how people viewed the trip.
What a great way to end your hiking trip, Leigh. Such spectacular scenery especially Mt. Thor looming and Crater Lake. I hope your ankle feels better. You amaze me with what you’ve accomplished on this trip and even with a sore ankle, you manage to find some of the most beautiful spots.
@Mary I have been very lucky this summer to see some incredible spots in Canada – and I’m so glad – despite it being a hard trip that I have now been to Baffin Island.
It looks an amazing hike. I’m not sure about jumping into that freezing crater though! Woah it looks cold. Your pictures of the scenery have me rushing to get my hiking boots to head for the hills!
@Johanna I was definitely not one of the ones to jump into the crater – though I did try to wash up in the brain numbing water every day.
You manage to stay in camp to get healthy and still take the most incredibly beautiful photos, Leigh. The scene framed by the tent is superb! You really must send/post on their FB page the photo of the Nature Valley bars. They always have printed on the bars, Where did you eat your Nature Valley bar. I took a photo of one we had on the south coast of Crete — it was great fun being part of the contributors and seeing photos of bars from all over!
@Jackie Great idea about putting the photo on the Nature Valley FB page.I’d sprained my ankle a month earlier walking my dog on Calgary – by falling flat on my face off the curb. You don’t need an adventure to do stupid things.
You sure have had an incredibly awesome summer, filled with beauty and adventure. This looks like an awesomely remote trip!
@Krista Agreed. It has probably been my most adventurous summer ever – and it’s not over yet.
Lovely photos and once again thank you for sharing with everyone. I absolutely admire your lifestyle! Yay! Kim
@Kim It’s a lifestyle that has been years in the making – a busy one with little downtown but definitely a rewarding one.
Wow – except for the remnants of snow on the mountains, Crater Lake looks like a tropical paradise. Your friend’s expression after jumping in the lake is priceless! As always, stunning photos!
@Dana Five minutes later though he was feeling like a million bucks – and very invigorated.