Hike to Havasu Falls & Why You Should Do It

The hike to stunning Havasu Falls
The hike to stunning Havasu Falls

If you’ve ever seen the photos of world-famous Havasu Falls, the images of the turquoise-blue water contrasted with the earthy tones of the Grand Canyon will forever be etched in your mind. The Havasu Falls hike is the best way (and apart from helicoptering in, the only way) to appreciate the beauty of not just Havasu Falls, but the four other equally stunning waterfalls in the Havasupai area.

They include Upper and Lower Navajo Falls, Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls.

September 2024 update: The Supai Village campground will reopen at the end of September after major flooding on August 22.

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Loads of photo opportunities at Mooney Falls
Loads of photo opportunities at Mooney Falls

Havasu Falls hike permit process (and all the rules that go with it)

Reservations: The dates of the 2024 permit lottery are from January 5 – 18, 2024. Be sure to check the Havasupai Campground Reservation site. You will need to set up an account to do that. Havasupai Falls Reservations can only be made online.

Number of days: You must reserve for a minimum of three nights – no more one and two night stays!

Don’t just show up: Walk-ins to do the Havasu Falls hike are not allowed ever and you could be charged if you are caught.

Costs: Count on spending a minimum of $100/night during the week and $125/night on weekends. 

Trip leaders: Consider having a Potential Alternate Trip Leader (PATL). There is only one name on a campground reservation, and the reservation is ONLY valid if the named person is present at the Village of Supai tourist check in office with valid photo ID. It all gets very complicated but the bottom line is the trip leader can transfer a reservation to a PATL (named on the form you submit) or via the Public Cancellation Transfer List.  Reservations are otherwise “non-refundable, non-changeable, and non-transferable.”

Number of people on a reservation: Up to 12 people in total can be on a reservation.

Online account: All visitors, even if not a trip leader or PATL must have an account on HavasupaiReservations.com prior to arrival so that they understand Havasupai laws and regulations.

Food safety: Plan to bring a bear cannister in with you because there are lots of animals (no bears mind you) that want to get into your food.

Leave No Trace: You must pack out everything you pack in – and you may be checked that you are packing out your trash.

Illegal: Alcohol, drones, campfires, littering, and diving and jumping is not permitted.

Dogs: Not permitted, nor any other animals. The same goes for bikes, rafts, paddles, inner tubes….so it’s basically you, your camping gear with food in odor and difficult to get into containers, and that’s it.

Nudity: Proper attire is required. Nudity is not permitted.

Photography: DO NOT take any photos of Havasupai people or property!

Havasu Falls enjoys an incredible backdrop as well
Havasu Falls enjoys an incredible backdrop as well

Hike to Havasu Falls summary

Distance: The hike to Havasu Falls is 10 miles in and 10 miles out. In addition, there is additional exploring to be done once you’re at the falls. There are lower waterfalls to explore including Havasu, Mooney, and Beaver and upper waterfalls to check out including Fiftyfoot and Little Navajo.

Supai Village: It’s 8.0 miles to Supai Village. There is a grocery store of sorts here.

Elevation loss/gain: There is an elevation loss of 2,400 feet and a gain of 2,400 feet to get back to the trailhead.

Time needed: Allow 4 – 6 hours for the hike to Havasu Falls and 5 – 7 hours for the hike out.

Best age: It is suggested that you don’t bring young children.

Water: It’s not available at the trailhead or along the trail. Drinking water is available in the Village of Supai. All spring water should be filtered.

Horses/mules: They always have the right of way.

Havasu Falls: Havasu Falls is the most famous of the aqua blue Havasupai waterfalls. The water temperature of all the falls is about 70ºF all year round.

Our hike to Havasu Falls

John and I spent three days with REI- Co-op Adventures hiking in the Havasu Falls area. We elected to go with an outfitter rather than on our own because of the logistics of the hike to Havasu Falls.

There is a small window every year on February 1st where you can book permits to visit – on a first come, first served basis. They’re usually gone within an hour or two – for the entire year. You can phone too, but that can be equally time-consuming and unrewarding.

Since I didn’t get to the planning stages of my Arizona trip until May, there was no way to score a permit on my own unless I caught a cancellation that would match up with my scheduled trip.

Before I booked I had read some blogs so I had a pretty good idea of what John and I were getting into.

I knew that the hike to Havasu Falls was in no way a wilderness hike for on any given day there can be 350 campers in the mile long campground. But still it’s worthy of being on a USA bucket list.

I also knew the distances – 10 miles in and out along with 2,400 feet of elevation loss and gain. But what I hadn’t appreciated was the steep cliff with tunnels that had to be negotiated to get to Mooney Falls – but more on that later.

 Going into one of the tunnels on the descent to Mooney Falls
Going into one of the tunnels on the descent to Mooney Falls

Getting to the Havasu Falls trailhead

It’s about a five hour drive with a bathroom break/gas stop from Scottsdale, Arizona to reach the Hualapai Hilltop and the Havasu Falls trailhead via Highway 17 and 66. You’ll know when you’re almost there by the sheer number of parked cars. 

It’s worth driving around to see if you can find a parking spot close to the trailhead. Otherwise you might add a half mile or mile to your hike in and out to the falls. Don’t park in any No Parking areas.

While most people hike into the campground, a good many people take the helicopter out
While most people hike into the campground, a good many people take the helicopter out

Since we were with AOA there was no need for us as individuals to check in at the trailhead but if you’re on your own, you should. (There’s only one building so it’s pretty obvious. Have your valid photo ID easily accessible.)

Also be aware that day hiking is not permitted and if you’re caught, you’ll be fined. You’ll need your credit card and ID in Supai Village – eight miles into the hike unless you go guided in which case they look after all of that.

Pick up your wrist bracelet at the Havasupai Tourist Office in the village and wear it all times to show that you’ve paid and that you are a legitimate visitor.

The mules do the heavy lifting on this trail
The mules do the heavy lifting on this trail

The hike to Havasu Falls description

While it is recommended that you start the hike to Havasu Falls early in the morning to avoid the worst of the heat, our AOA group didn’t leave until 12:45 PM, which is normal on a three day hike – especially because you don’t leave Scottsdale until 6 AM.

In October the heat wasn’t so bad, but in the summer, an early start is preferable. John and I were joined on this hike by a couple of newlyweds from Philadelphia and a group of six friends from Los Angeles along with our guides Bethany and Lucas. In total our group was made up of 12 people.

After a delicious lunch prepared by Lucas with most of the “fixings” from Trader Joes, we were off. While John and I carried our backpacks, a few people had elected to pay extra to send some of their gear down to the campground by mule.

The first part of the hike loses about 1000 feet in short order
The first part of the hike loses about 1000 feet in short order

The first part of the hike switchbacks as it descends through the canyon losing about 1,000 feet over the first 1.5 miles. From there it’s a pretty gentle grade except for the final descent from Supai Village to the campground.

If you’re any sort of hiker, you won’t have any problems but if you’re new to hiking, it may be a challenge, especially if you end up with blisters.

Some of my favourite type of hiking in red rock country
This is some of my favourite type of hiking
Starting late on the hike allowed us to walk in the shadows of the canyon walls by late afternoon
Starting late on the hike allowed us to walk in the shadows of the canyon walls by late afternoon
We were all pretty excited to see Upper Navajo Falls
We were all pretty excited to see Upper Navajo Falls – the first set we came to on the descent

Its eight miles to reach Supai Village and then another two miles after that to reach the campground. In Supai Village there is a grocery store if you’ve forgotten anything and near Havasu Falls there are a couple of food stands selling overpriced tacos, fry-bread, cheese-dogs, and a few other calorie laden snacks.

You’ll be frequently passed by horses and mules. Get out of the way the minute you hear them coming. We were told that one shouldn’t take photos of the locals or anything in Supai Village unless you ask for permission.

Our group took about 5.5 hours to hike down – mostly because we were with guides who stopped to share stories and interesting facts along the way. We certainly would have missed the ancient pictographs without the guides!

And they had the answer to the question about the colour of the water at the tip of their tongue so I didn’t have to go home and look it up on Wikipedia. The blue-green colouring comes from the presence of large amounts of calcium carbonate in the water.

We also learned that Havasu Creek, which ultimately flows into the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon, stays at a comfortable and swimmable 70°F year round. After a rain (like they’d had the week before) the water gets muddied so some hikers never end up seeing the gorgeous blue-green water.

Wildflowers and old cottonwood trees on the approach to Supai Village
Wildflowers and old cottonwood trees on the approach to Supai Village
Your first view of the falls will take your breath away
Your first view of Havasu Falls will take your breath away

Camping near Havasu Falls

While you don’t have a choice if you want to see Havasu Falls, you will be staying in the most expensive campground in the whole of the United States – though even with the prices, they sell out every year – almost instantly once reservations open.

There are no designated campsites. Camp wherever you want for about a mile on both sides of Havasu Creek.

For cooking, only bring in gas cannisters. Don’t bring in any music amplifiers.

You don't want to camp right beside the freshwater spring or you'll have zero privacy
You don’t want to camp right beside the freshwater spring or you’ll have zero privacy
Banks of composting toilets use sawdust which minimizes the smell
Banks of composting toilets use sawdust which minimizes the smell
Walk down to where you see a bridge over the river and you'll find some beautiful campsites
Walk down to where you see a bridge over the river and you’ll find some beautiful campsites

Bethany, our guide, left us at the village of Supai to get ahead so she could grab a campsite and get the tents set up. If you’re with a group, in all likelihood you’re going to set up close to the entrance of the campground – mostly on account of the sheer amount of gear and coolers brought in – and all of that has to be transported from the one main loading area via wheelbarrow.

While we didn’t have the prettiest campsite, in the end it didn’t matter much. After dinner in the dark, it’s not long before you’re in bed and in the mornings you’re also out of camp in short order.

However, if I was going down to camp on my own I would definitely make my way past the first two sets of washrooms and look for a place near the river – providing there was no threat of a flash flood.

There are some gorgeous spots, some of which are quite private considering the number of campers. Campsites cannot be reserved.

There is lots of shade in the campground.

Notice the tents set up across the river
Notice the tents set up across the river

The camping experience at Havasu Falls

I have to say it was a treat not to carry a tent and look for a campsite in the dark on our Havasu Falls hike. Tents provided by AOA are roomy – as in you can stand-up inside the tent kind of roomy – and the air mattresses provided are thick.

We only had to bring a sleeping bag and our clothes for the trip. AOA also include a collapsible chair so you don’t have to sit on the ground or even at the picnic table. The guides look after getting wash water and cooking all the meals.

Guests might do their own dishes but that’s about all. Without having to lug all our gear or plan and cook meals, the Havasu Falls hike felt far more like a real vacation.

Interestingly, Bethany and Lucas guessed that about a third of all visitors come guided. Fortunately the two of them were very good about reinforcing “Leave No Trace” principles in an area that sees so much traffic.

 Bethany and Lucas cooking up a storm after our hike
Bethany and Lucas cooking up a storm
Food is healthy and delicious on a guided trip
Food is healthy and delicious on the Havasu Falls hike

The hike to Mooney Falls

On our second day in the Havasupai area we elected to do the hike to Beaver Falls via Mooney Falls.

Tip: If you want to visit Mooney Falls in high season start out early as I have heard of 90-minute line-ups to get down the cliff face.

Take the campground trail to the top of the falls. Along the way you pass a spring where you can fill up water bottles. If you’re fussy about your drinking water you should know that the water out of the spring is lukewarm so bring drink crystals if you want something other than warm water.

Before you begin the descent to Mooney Falls, visit the lookout where you can see the falls crash over the 210-foot canyon wall.

Mooney Falls from the lookout
Mooney Falls from the lookout

To gain access to the bottom of Mooney Falls and the pools you must climb down a cliff face via two short tunnels and a set of wooden ladders with chains. Many people freak out here and have to turn back. Don’t. Take your time, facing into the wall as that’s far safer than facing out.

The first part of the cliff descent is fun as you feel your way through a small cave until you turn the corner and suddenly see the light. But if someone is trying to come up while you’re going down, you may feel like you’re in a compromised position.

As the guides said several times – “always keep three points of contact with the ladders so that you’re secure.” The final part of the trail is akin to a vertical rock climb with the added danger of wet rungs because of mist from the waterfalls. Take your time through here.

For people that loathe this part of the trail there is some good news. It’s much easier on the way back up.

Once you’re safely down on the ground I guarantee you’ll have a great time. There are pools that are popular for swimming. If you’re in the exploring mood follow the trail by the river towards a set of falls covered in mist. It’s a beautiful, lush area.

On the wat down to see Mooney Falls
Me on the way down
 This is the cliff face you come down to get to Mooney Falls
This is the cliff face you come down to get to Mooney Falls
 A rare photo of the two of us on the hike to Havasu Falls
A rare photo of the two of us
Why You'll Want to do the Hike to Havasu Falls
Another set of waterfalls just down from the pools at Mooney Falls

The hike to Beaver Falls

The 3-mile hike to Beaver Falls from Mooney Falls was one of the highlights of our Havasu Falls hike trip. Some of it traverses “Jurassic Park,” a lush green oasis filled with grape vines, grasses and cottonwood trees. It’s easy hiking until you catch sight of Beaver Falls.

Then there are a couple of ladders to negotiate but after climbing down the cliff from Mooney Falls they’ll seem like nothing.

A fantastic hike through Jurassic Park on the way to Beaver Falls
A fantastic hike through Jurassic Park on the way to Beaver Falls
Why You'll Want to do the Hike to Havasu Falls
Bird’s eye view of Beaver Falls- all part of the experience on our Havasu Falls hike
Why You'll Want to do the Hike to Havasu Falls
Beaver Falls is definitely worth the effort to see
Why You'll Want to do the Hike to Havasu Falls
Is there a more scenic place to do a push-up?
The pools at Beaver Falls fill with swimmers
The pools at Beaver Falls fill with swimmers
Take a series of ladders down from the main trail to reach Beaver Falls
Take a series of ladders down from the main trail to reach Beaver Falls
Really enjoying the scenery into and out of Beaver Falls
Really enjoying the scenery into and out of Beaver Falls
Pinch yourself to make sure the scenery is real on the hike to Havasu Falls
You have to pinch yourself every so often when you see this kind of grand scenery

A stop at Havasu Falls

We had passed Havasu Falls in the fading light on our hike into the campground but hadn’t spent any time at the base of the falls. With plenty of light and several free hours after our Beaver Falls hike John and I went over to explore on our own.

The falls are only a 5 – 10 minute walk from the campground. It was just as much fun people watching as it was to see the falls. In the photo below the fellow carrying his girlfriend dropped her and they both ended up in the “drink.” Quite funny to see.

Havasu Falls, the most famous and most visited of all the falls offers plenty of drama. Not only are the falls powerful with a drop of 90 – 100 feet, the travertine rock formations are almost as dramatic.

Before the massive flood of 1910, the falls were called Bridal Veil Falls – and were almost a continuous sheet of water. After every major flood the look of the falls changes.

Instagrammable moments on the hike to Havasu Falls
Watching the instagrammable moments at Havasu Falls

The hike out from Havasu Falls

Even though we were on an AOA trip, we still did the hike from Havasu Falls on our own. The guides were busy packing up and sweeping out tents after a quick and portable breakfast and so rather than hold us back they tell us to go and they’ll catch up to us – which they did! The trail is dead easy to follow, so one shouldn’t get lost.

We were on the hike out from Havasu Falls at 6:15 AM so that we could be on the canyon rim before noon. That way we’d beat the heat on the 2,400 foot ascent.

It was absolutely lovely hiking early in the morning. We watched the full moon disappear behind the hills. We listened to birds singing (don’t forget your binoculars) and we enjoyed the silence and lack of people for the first few hours. Midway up we started running into the early birds coming down – and so went our silence.

Six people in our group elected to helicopter out instead of hiking – though you still have to hike two miles up to the Supai Village to get the helicopter. Unless you’re aching for photos or are unbelievably sore I wouldn’t recommend it.

The six left camp at 2:30 AM so they could be first in line as its first come, first served with the local villagers getting preference for flights. Helicopter flights leave at 9 AM so they had a terrific amount of time to kill.

John and I did the hike out in 3 hours and 55 minutes – and as we rolled into the parking lot I heard “Leigh, Leigh – over here.” We’d arrived at the same time! Some people who take helicopter flights don’t get out until late in the afternoon. The flights are $US 85 – and cash is preferred.

We have the trail to ourselves for the first few hours hiking out
With an early start and a fast pace we feel like we have the trail to ourselves for the first few hours hiking out
On one of the final stretches before the end of our hike to Havasu Falls
On one of the final stretches before the climb back up to the parking lot

Final thoughts on the hike

I’m not a hiker who usually likes to share my outdoors experience with the masses. But the hike to Havasu Falls is an exception. It is truly unlike anywhere else I have seen (and I’ve been to the Grand Canyon on four other occasions including the Rim to Rim to Rim hike) so I’d say go do it.

Even though REI comped my trip (not John’s), it was a pleasure to go guided and not have to worry about the details.

I organized a 10-day self-guided trek in Torres del Paine, Patagonia for January and I can’t tell you how many hours I put into arranging all the details. So if you’re pressed for time and don’t want the hassle of getting permits – or even driving to the trailhead, sign up. The same goes for the whole camping/cooking experience.

Where to stay before after the hike to the falls

The closest places to stay include Peach Springs (67 miles away), Seligman (90 miles away), and Kingman (118 miles away).

Peach Springs

In Peach Springs check out some of these options.

Cabins at Great Canyon Westare rated very good. The cabins are just 3 miles from the Grand Canyon Skywalk.

Hualapai Lodgeis rated as good. Onsite is a seasonal hot tub and an outdoor heated pool.

Seligman

Historic Route 66 Motelis one of the most highly rated places to stay.

Another good choice would beThe Aztec Motel & Creative Space. All units come with a fridge and a great grab and go breakfast.

Kingman

The most highly rated place to stay isBest Western Plus A Wayfarers Inn & Suites. It is beside historic Route 66. The hotel features a seasonal pool and hot tub.

SpringHill Suites Kingman Route 66also comes highly rated. It boasts an indoor heated pool. 

More ideas on things to do in Arizona

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The amazing Havasu Falls hike & camping trip in Arizona is now open again as of Feb 1, 2023

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