Cangreja Waterfall Hike, Rincon de la Vieja National Park

While in Costa Rica for a wedding, a big group of us took a day to do the Cangreja Waterfall hike in Rincon de la Vieja National Park. It’s located close to the city of Liberia in the northern part of the country.

Most people visit the national park to see the cinder cone volcano – Rincon de la Vieja, comprised of nine contiguous craters. To get to the crater it’s an 8 km hike with a lot of vertical gain – not something many in the group would have been interested in doing had the trail even been open.

But the trail, as we found out upon our arrival, has been closed for a while as there has been a lot of volcanic activity lately. The last eruption according to Wikipedia was in 1998.

We planned to do the easier 10 km round trip hike to La Cangreja waterfall. Swimsuits were added to our backpacks though none of us really knew what to expect on the Cangreja waterfall hike.

The Grand Canyon of Costa Rica is how our guide described this canyon seen on the way into the park
The Grand Canyon of Costa Rica is how our guide described this canyon seen on the way into the park

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I was surprised by the park hours
I was surprised by the Rincon de la Vieja Park hours
Pickled snakes in the office at the park headquarters
Pickled snakes in the office at the Rincon de la Vieja Park headquarters

Rincon de la Vieja National Park

The Cangreja Waterfall hike ended up being quite interesting as we made our way through a number of different ecosystems. Starting out it felt more lush and tropical, with big trees and slick trails. But after just a few kilometres it opened up and we emerged on a dry hillside with a view to Nicaragua.

That was totally unexpected. From there it was back into a landscape filled with more giant trees and big roots, seemingly designed to trip you up – all the way until we reached La Cangreja waterfall.

Snake alert on the Cangreja Waterfall hike

Of course we were all on high snake alert for the duration of the Canrgeja waterfall hike, especially after seeing pickled samples in the park office. Costa Rica is home to loads of venomous snakes including the bushmaster and Fer de Lance – though I don’t know exactly what landscape specifically they prefer.

Fortunately, we didn’t see a single one but we did see a turquoise-browed Motmot (one of 300 bird species that have been sighted in the park), two monkey species, a lizard, an agouti, and several other birds. Biting insects were almost non-existent.

Rincon de la Vieja National Park has loads of other trails we would have loved to explore had we had the time. There are trails that take you by steaming fumaroles, boiling mud pots, and even to thermal hot springs.

What we saw on the Cangreja waterfall hike

Near the start of the Rincon de la Vieja hike; I always watched where I put my hands
Near the start of the Caranja waterfall hike; I always watched where I put my hands
A few wildflowers are blooming
A few wildflowers are blooming
We are all dwarfed by the trees we see in the park on the Cangreja Waterfall hike
We are all dwarfed by the trees we see in the park on the Cangreja Waterfall hike
One at a time only on this rickety old bridge
One at a time only on this rickety old bridge
Interesting blue hue of the water in this small stream
Interesting blue hue of the water in this small stream
Giant strangler figs surround and eventually kill the tree seen on theCangreja Waterfall hike
Giant strangler figs surround and eventually kill the tree seen on theCangreja Waterfall hike
Fungi in Rincon de la Vieja reminds me of what we see in the Rockies
Reminds me of fungi we see in the Rockies
Woods with a real mixture in the size of trees
Woods with a real mixture in the size of trees
An ever changing hike - through a section of agave look alikes
The Cangreja Waterfall hike is ever changing – through a section of agave look alikes
Happy to see lizards and not snakes
Happy to see lizards and not snakes
Looking out to Lake Nicaragua
Looking out to Lake Nicaragua on the Cangreja Waterfall hike
One of the 13 capuchin monkeys we saw on the Cangreja Waterfall Hike
One of the 13 capuchin monkeys we saw
What an old man face
What an old man face
I look for snakes when I go through a tunnel of green on the Cangreja Waterfall hike
I look for snakes when I go through a tunnel of green on the I look for snakes when I go through a tunnel of green on the Cangreja Waterfall hike
Sometimes the Cangreja Waterfall hike is tough going
Sometimes the Cangreja Waterfall hike is tough going
In Rincon de la Vieja Wwe enjoyed a refreshing swim we had once we reached La Cangreja waterfall
What a refreshing swim we had once we reached La Cangreja waterfall
Swimming is refreshing and you warm up quickly once you're out of the water in Rincon de la Vieja National Park
Swimming is refreshing and you warm up quickly once you’re out
Our guide handing out papaya at the end of the Cangreja Waterfall hike
Our guide handing out papaya
Lucky to see an agouti on the Cangreja waterfall hike - prized unfortunately for its' meat; it moves like a bunny
I was lucky to see an agouti on the Cangreja waterfall hike – prized unfortunately for its’ meat; it moves like a bunny
Spider monkeys in Rincon de la Vieja were way up in the tree so very hard to get good shots
Spider monkeys were way up in the tree so very hard to get good shots

For more information on Costa Rica visit the tourism board website.

Further reading on Central America and the Caribbean

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The Cangreja waterfall hike in Rincon de la Vieja National Park, Costa Rica

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38 Comments

  1. What a great adventure! I personally love hiking, so I would love a trip like this. I am definitely adding this to my bucket list. The pictures are magnificent. Thank you for sharing!

    -Sara

  2. These wildflowers let me think of a plant we have in Sicily. Maybe its name is lantana or something like that.

  3. Pickled snakes?! Ewww. I think after I saw all those, I’d be careful, too. I love how verdant and green that hike is. It’s so different from the Canadian hikes you often post. That strangler fig is so visually interesting… biologically interesting, too, as long as you’re not the tree that’s being strangled. Were the monkeys mischievous or did they leave you alone?

    1. @Michele The hike offered so much and was so wildly different than anything I do in Canada that it was a real treat. I hate snakes but don’t want to be paralyzed by fear so I put them to the back of my mind. And these were nice monkeys; they left us alone so they did have something to say about our presence.

  4. Nothing quite like a jungle hike ending at a beautiful waterfall. Great that you saw some cool wildlife along the way (although no snakes). Good thing to be on high snake alert in this part of the world. I am going to Borneo tomorrow, so I will be doing the same.

  5. What an awesome hike Leigh. What’s not to love when you can have waterfalls, swims, tunnels of trees (and such interesting patterns and shapes on those huge trunks). I hope your son’s wedding was wonderful too!

  6. Hi Leigh, what a beautiful hike. It’s nice to see you in a tropical surrounding this time. I enjoyed everything that you saw on your trail – the birds, the monkeys, the wild strangler trees, the tunnels of green and, of course, the waterfalls and the pool! Everything looked amazing. Congratulations to your son’s wedding. It must be very memorable.

  7. Those look like ceiba or silk cotton trees, Leigh. We have them in Jamaica. They have very large, very distinctive, buttress roots. The trees can be several hundred years old.

  8. Snakes are not something that I ever want to see on a hiking trail! Love how green everything is, and that swimming hole looks fantastic!

  9. I have wanted to visit Costa Rica just to see the capuchin monkeys in the wild. This looks so wonderful with the waterfalls as a bonus. Of course, I would be so paranoid with the prospect of all those snakes. Those trees are amazing. I’ve never heard of an agouti so what a treat to know about and virtually see. Glad you got to do some sightseeing and hiking.

  10. Love the strangler fig photo and the lizard one – so good. I have not seen or even heard of the agouti. Great photo.

  11. You captured the richness of the colors so well, Leigh! What an amazing trail you followed (not sure after seeing the selection of snakes) I would have headed out on it though. . .I am glad you did, I enjoyed the tour!

    1. @Jackie I think you have to put the snake thing at the back of your mind – be aware of them but don’t freak out. I saw one when we hiked a volcano – and it was thankfully non venomous but 5 feet long.

  12. Wow, that definitely looks like a great hike with all that diverse scenery! Makes me want to consider going to Costa Rica.

  13. Amazing photos. Love the emerald water pools, the giant trees (you should have taken a photo next to one so people can have an idea of their magnitude). The agouti looks like a cross between a rabbit and rat.

    1. @Rachel I agree that conveying a sense of scale is very important. The agouti with its bright red ears is definitely a strange looking creature. Unfortunately it’s numbers are going down because its’ meat it so highly prized. Our guide told us it sells for about $30/kg.

  14. Beautiful photos – it looks like an amazing hike! I would love to see a spider monkey – even if they were far up in the tree. My older daughter is going to Costa Rica on a service trip for spring break – I’m a little jealous!

  15. What a fascinating journey this was for you! So much wildlife and I still can’t get over the size of that Papaya!! Wow!! Sure looks like you had a marvelous time as evidenced by your gorgeous pics!!

  16. I haven’t hiked in this national park in Costa Rica, but love hiking there – especially since there are so many good opportunities to see monkeys. Looks like a great hike.

  17. It’s safe to say that I’ve never been on a hike that had such a diversity of wildlife, scenery and terrain. I’d be a little apprehensive about running into one of those venomous snakes, but otherwise would love this hike. What a view to Nicaragua!

    1. @Cathy I hate snakes as much as anybody can hate a snake but after not seeing one on the way there I got over my fears. That’s one of the reasons we had a guide. It was an interesting hike and a good way to get to know my son’s in-laws.

    2. Hey Cathy,
      Great Post! You got some amazing shots. How long was this tour? How long did you spend at the waterfall? What company? Thanks for the help!

      Will

      1. Hello Will, WE spent about an hour at the waterfall – plenty of time to go swimming and eat fruit. We hired a local company out of the nearest village closest to the Four Seasons where we were staying.

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