Things to Do in Golden BC in Winter

Cross-country skiing in Yoho National Park

I don’t know about you but come winter I need something to look forward to on a regular basis. In the summer, we go away almost every weekend, but somehow in winter we only seem go away every month or so. John and I decided we needed a break and decided to check out all the things to do Golden, BC  in winter for a change

The plan was to avail ourselves of winter activities both in Golden and in nearby Yoho National Park. Most people I know head for Kicking Horse Mountain Resort but on this trip we weren’t looking for ski resort activities.

Over three days in winter we knocked off some cross-country skiing, several snowshoe outings along with a couple of winter hikes. We also enjoyed some good eating and a fabulous stay at Home Lodge, just 12 minutes from downtown Golden. 

Check out all the things to do in Golden BC in winter that we discovered over one three day visit and another two-day visit.

Getting to Golden, BC

The town of Golden, situated at the junction of the Columbia and Kicking Horse Rivers, is three hours west of Calgary and about an hour’s drive east of Rogers Pass. It’s in a scenic valley with the Rocky and Purcell Mountains on the doorstep. What you see from the highway is a fraction of the town.

What is different now – and for years to come is the construction upgrade to Kicking Horse Canyon, just east of Golden. There are frequent slowdowns and even complete closings so always check the Kicking Horse Canyon website before you go. Its updated daily with all the wait times and closure information.

It can be a gnarly drive to Golden, BC on a winter weekend. In fact, one time we almost cancelled because of the weather. Once we got past Lake Louise the Trans-Canada Highway was down to one lane in each direction and roads were snow-covered and icy. Still, we persevered, breaking up the drive with a stop for a few hours of cross-country skiing in Yoho National Park.

At least the highways were quiet
At least the highways were quiet

Location map of things to do in Golden, BC in winter

                                             

Go cross-country skiing in Yoho National Park

I had read about some cross-country ski trails in Yoho National Park that I was keen to try. The one we did began at the side of the road near the Yoho Natural Bridge. The parking lot doesn’t seem to be plowed in winter but there is room to pull over and park.

We skied about 11 kilometres on a combination of the Kicking Horse and Otterhead Trails. Part of the trail is normally track-set but it had snowed so much that we broke trail the entire way. There was less than 50 metres of elevation gain.

The trailhead is near the washrooms on the north side of the parking lot. Ski a mix of wide roads and narrow trails through the woods, crossing both the Emerald and Amiskwi Rivers. Eventually you reach the Kicking Horse River where there are supposed to be wonderful views of the surrounding peaks, but we couldn’t see much.

We turned around before the light started to fade so we could get to Golden in daylight. We’d like to go back and do more skiing in this area as its in a snow belt and very peaceful.

Phenomenal ski conditions on quiet trails in Yoho National Park
Phenomenal ski conditions on quiet trails in Yoho National Park
Good signage at all intersections
Good signage at all intersections

Overnight at Home Lodge in Golden

We spent two wonderful nights at the Home Lodge in Golden run by Lynn, a Scot (fresh baked shortbread were waiting for us one evening) and Sigi a Swiss. Both are personable and welcoming – and know the region like the proverbial back of your hand. You can count on lots of local intel if you need suggestions on what to do, where to eat…

Even though the B&B is in Golden, it felt like we were in a nature sanctuary. The B&B sits on a large acreage with a view of the mountains – yet its just a 12-minute drive from the main street in downtown Golden.

While you can still see a few other homes, mostly what you see when you look outside is either deer, birds or one of their photogenic Scottish Highland cattle.

We had the entire place to ourselves though there are four bedrooms. It was a treat to have a huge common area to sit and enjoy a glass of wine.

And one night we brought a delicious Mexican dinner back from Reposados Tacos and ate it at their large dining table. Both nights we availed ourselves of their hot tub.

Breakfasts come with your stay. Not only are they delicious (fresh fruit, yogurt, bacon, pancakes…) but they’re fun and full of great conversation with Lynn and Sigi. And you get a view of deer checking you out as they walk by the kitchen windows.

The entrance to the Home Lodge
The entrance to the Home Lodge
Home Lodge sits on 40 acres, 12 minutes from downtown Golden
Home Lodge sits on a large acreage, just 12 minutes from downtown Golden
We had Home Lodge to ourselves
We had the place to ourselves including this common room – perfect for relaxing with a glass of wine
What a treat to enjoy a hot tub on a cold January night
What a treat to enjoy a hot tub on a cold January night
The bedrooms have a few Scottish touches
The bedrooms have a few Scottish touches
The view from our bedroom window
The view from our bedroom window at Home Lodge in Golden, BC
They have about 40 Scottish Highland cattle
They have about a herd of Scottish Highland cattle

Drive up Blaeberry Road and go snowshoeing

We wouldn’t have gone snowshoeing near the Blaeberry River if it wasn’t for Lynn’s suggestion. She did say we’d find lots of unmarked trails – and it would be beautiful. She was right.

To find somewhere to snowshoe, we drove down Blaeberry Road to the end of where it had been plowed. There’s a large parking area. From there you can do one of two things. Backtrack 150 metres to the bridge over the Blaeberry River. Cross it and then snowshoe on some forest service roads.

That’s what we ended up doing for about 75 minutes. There’s a lot to explore and none of the terrain we were in posed any avalanche risk. As you can see in the photos, it was untracked and beautiful snowshoeing.

The other option is to continue up the unplowed Blaeberry Road to Thompson Falls. I don’t know if its 5.3 km one way – the distance marked on a sign we saw, but I assume that’s how far you’d have to go. I saw a photo on Tourism Golden’s Instagram feed of Thompson Falls – so I knew it was an option, though I know nothing about the trail itself.

It was a beautiful drive from our B&B to get to the Blaeberry River via backroads
It was a beautiful drive from our B&B to get to the Blaeberry River via backroads
The starting point for our snowshoeing outing near the end of the plowed road
The starting point for our snowshoeing outing near the end of the plowed road
Lots of exploring to do off of the Blaeberry Road
Lots of exploring to do off of the Blaeberry Road
Looking up the Blaeberry River into a mountain range I'd like to explore
Looking up the Blaeberry River into a mountain range I’d like to explore
Exploring forest service roads on snowshoe
Exploring forest service roads on snowshoe
You can see over to Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
You can see over to Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
What a lot of snow for early January!
What a lot of snow for early January!

Eat lunch in Bacchus Books and Café in downtown Golden

Another one of Lynn’s recommendations was to enjoy lunch at Bacchus Books and Cafe in downtown Golden.

It was a great suggestion as the food is delicious, portions are large, and I love a good bookstore. Look for secondhand books upstairs while the downstairs has both new and used books.

I also understand that one of the cooks here is non other than Katie Mitzel, the beloved cook up at Skoki Lodge for many years. We thoroughly enjoyed her cooking over one winter weekend years ago, so we knew we’d be in for a treat here as well. Everything we ordered was delicious.

Look over used books while you enjoy lunch at the Bacchus Bookstore & Cafe
Look over used books while you enjoy lunch at the Bacchus Bookstore & Cafe

Walk the Rotary Loop beside the Kicking Horse River in Golden

After lunch we hopped onto the Rotary Trail from the back door of the bookstore. After crossing the Kicking Horse River on the aptly named Kicking Horse Pedestrian Bridge, we hung a right and made our way down to Confluence Park where the Kicking Horse and Columbia Rivers meet.

What was most noticeable was the amount of ice on the Kicking Horse River. There was so much that they had to dredge a channel, removing ice, so water could flow. Note how high the ice is in relation to the pedestrian bridge. 

This is an easy out and back walk. To get to Confluence Park you do have to walk on a short stretch of road.

Golden's pedestrian bridge is the longest timber framed clear span pedestrian bridge in Canada
The pedestrian bridge in Golden is the longest timber framed clear span pedestrian bridge in Canada
Note the ice levels on the Kicking Horse River in relation to the pedestrian bridge
Note the ice levels on the Kicking Horse River in relation to the pedestrian bridge
Walking beside mounds of dredged ice
Walking beside mounds of ice dredged from the river is one of the fun things in winter to do in Golden BC 

Walk or snowshoe the Moonraker Trails near Golden, BC

The Moonraker Trails are accessed off the road to Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. From downtown Golden, it’s about a 10-minute drive.

There are over 50 kilometres of trails that are heavily used by mountain bikers and hikers in summer but in winter many of the trails can be walked or snowshoed.

We walked quickly to Cedar Lake – post-holing only occasionally and arriving about 45 minutes after leaving the car. All told it’s somewhere between a 4 – 5 kilometre out and back hike. It was pretty with a lot of snow. In summer, the lake is a popular recreation site, offering 22 primitive campsites.

Starting off on the Moonraker Trails towards Cedar Lake
Starting off on the Moonraker Trails towards Cedar Lake
There's a fabulous amount of snow but most is well-packed down
There’s a fabulous amount of snow
Arrival at Cedar Lake
Arrival at Cedar Lake

Cross country ski at Dawn Mountain Nordic Centre

Up near Kicking Horse Mountain Resort is the Dawn Mountain Nordic Centre, boasting 33 km of groomed skate and classic ski trails. If you love cross-country skiing, check this place out. It’s got warming huts and a proper lodge near the parking lot.

Some trails feel very far from civilization, so I experienced a sense of solitude, something I don’t always find cross-country skiing – with a backdrop of beautiful mountain views. The residents of Golden BC are lucky to have such a facility to make winter that much sweeter.

Cross-country skiing at Dawn Mountain Nordic Centre up by Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
Cross-country skiing at Dawn Mountain Nordic Centre up by Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

Snowshoe or walk to Wapta Falls in Yoho National Park

We snowshoed to Wapta Falls in Yoho National Park on the drive home. The start of the trail, immediately off the Trans-Canada Highway, is about 30 minutes from Golden so it’s easy to do as a day trip.

It’s a delightful trail to the falls though it’s longer in winter as you must walk or snowshoe to the parking lot that is used in summer. All told it is 8.8 km return with an elevation gain of around 30 metres. Allow 3- 3.5 hours as you will want to spend some time at Wapta Falls, admiring the falls from different angles.

Unless there is a big fresh dump of snow, you should be able to hike to the falls though I would recommend that you throw some microspikes in your pack in case it gets icy. 

Pretty hiking right off the bat to the parking lot
It’s pretty hiking right off the bat especially when its a winter wonderland
First view of Wapta Falls
First view of Wapta Falls
Magnificent Wapta Falls
Magnificent Wapta Falls

Visit Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

Kicking Horse Mountain Resort draws skiers and snowboarders with the fourth highest vertical drop in North America of 1,260 m (4,133 feet). I hit it on a day that gave me sun, fog, rain and snow depending on where I was on the mountain. This is an especially good resort for advanced skiers.

The beauty of Kicking Horse Mountain
The beauty of Kicking Horse Mountain

Walk with wolves in Golden, BC

I’d seen the signs along the highway pointing to the wolves at the Northern Lights Wolf Centre but again in a rush to get to my destination, I never stopped. Do.

Even better, reserve ahead so you can actually go on a walk with the wolves. It’s truly a magical one-of-a kind experience. Most walks occur in the morning and last about 90 minutes.

Great fun seeing a wolf in the wild
Lots of photo opportunities when you walk with the wolves

Eating in Golden, BC

Enjoy excellent breakfasts and lunch

Within minutes of Gasoline Alley in Golden is the Blue Bird Café with delicious lattes and baked goods along with more substantial fare if that’s what you want. They’re open early seven days a week.

For breakfast or lunch with some local flavour and history check out Big Bend Café on 9th Avenue North. Their hot sauce selection is enormous  and so are the portion sizes. Bring your appetite and enjoy the atmosphere.

Breakfast at the Big Bend Café in Golden
Breakfast at the Big Bend Café in Golden

Dinner in Golden, BC

Reposados Tacos on the Main Street is REALLY good. 

The Island Restaurant has an interesting location – and an eclectic menu with pizza, pasta, Mexican and a little Asian Fusion thrown in for good measure. With a patio on the Kicking Horse River and great mountain views, this is definitely a place to check out after a day on the hills.

Another local favourite is Eleven22 – named for its address on 10th Avenue South. Located in a historic house, it offers a modern take on Canadian cuisine alongside local beers and Okanagan wines.

Called one of the top 50 restaurants in Canada, The Cedar House Restaurant can be found on 10 acres south of Golden. You can also stay in one of their luxurious onsite chalets.

And there is a microbrewery – The Whitetooth Brewing Company with a location beside the Kicking Horse River. There is a tasting room and you can get a growler filled.

Other restaurants in Golden that come highly recommended Whitetooth Bistro and the Ronin Noodle Bar.

Creative thinking on the part of Reposados Tacos offering a dining experience in this dome
Creative thinking on the part of Reposados Tacos offering a dining experience in this dome

Other places to stay in Golden, BC in winter

Golden doesn’t offer the boutique hotel experience many travelers are looking for. But there are plenty of chain hotels like the Prestige Inn near the gasoline alley strip where you can get a good night’s sleep. (I stayed here and while not fancy more than adequate.)

At the higher end of the price scale are chalets of varying sizes that you can rent on the mountain. They are but a short walk away to both Kicking Horse Mountain Resort and the Dawn Mountain Nordic Centre.

Check out Lush Mountain Accommodation if you and your family have designs on a ski trip to Kicking Horse.

More reading on things to do in BC in winter

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Best things to do in Golden, BC in winter include snowshoeing and cross-country skiing , winter walks to waterfalls, lazy lunches at good restaurants along with a lovely stay at Home Lodge B&B

 

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